This has probably been done to death, but whatever. Did the work on this one a while back. The sharpie is quick notes to myself. Entire fender is getting fixed, starting at the rear and working toward the front. Fenders been fitted and mounted flange tweaked to fit as it sits but of course always check the fit once all your work is done and tweak as needed. Old lapped patch. Didn't fit up all that well to start with and was rusting from the inside out as it sat. Closeup of old patch. The internal flange on it was going as well, which you can see in this picture. The front of the piece really wasn't any better... Anyway. With the fender still uncut I made a paper reference pattern to use in order to help with grabbing the shape of the panel as well as size and what not and what have you. You can do it the ol lay up masking tape 'upside' down then 'rightside' way making a masking tape form or you can do a butcher paper form. I tend to do both, depending on what it is. This one just happened to be a butcher paper form. I made my paper pattern. The creases are reference marks which are cues to me as far as what I'll have to do to the panel in order to get it to fit. That's the paper pattern and you can see I transferred it over to the steel. I make my pattern oversized and then trim to fit the panel and final trim the piece when fitting to the fender. Which means take a bunch of measurements before cutting. Save the h***le. I actually do keep a book of measurements for reference from the past **** I've done. I've got door skin measurements, fenders, cowls, etc. Every car is different but it's always good to have a last resort reference guide to fall back on. Anyway - from there mark off your cut lines. I usually lay a piece of half inch tape and go off that line in order to have a somewhat straighter line. Just makes things easier having a straight reference line to fall back on. That's just me. From there I make my initial cut. F Cut out the patch. Start shaping. I totally got lost in the moment while doing the patch and didn't take any during pictures for forming the patch. Suffice it to say it was done with a sheet brake for the flange, planishing hammer, some slight tucking and some shrinking was done on the flange itself. Anyway. This was the initial fitup, comparing it to the other fender. Making sure everything was going as it should be. I **** weld my stuff. Those cheapie HF ****weld clamps have more than paid for themselves thousands of times over... From there I set about doing the final tweaking and welding it in. After that. Dress your welds. And if done right, you should wind up with a pretty invisible repair!! From there move forward. They had an old leaded repair over an easily removed dent, a bunch of holes from using a slide hammer & sheet metal screws to roughly pull out the front panel, etc. etc. So I started hopping around fixing all that. Still had a few small problem spots that would require using the stud welder, slide hammer, etc. to address. but she's getting there. Also wound up having to repair a big patch in the front corner of the fender, along with a big chunk of the headlight bucket. Also put in an 1/8 cold rolled rod for support. Anyway. There ya go .My quickie take on saving a not great piece to start with. Which wound up turning into an easily workable piece.
excellent tutorial. thanks. comes in especially handy as I'm going to have to do the same kind of repairs on my 41 K2. I appreciate seeing how someone else does them, cause I'm gonna be learning as I go. y'all have a good day, Keith
Hey, A great job on the salvage of ''cornbinder'' tin. It don't look like this was your first time at the rodeo! " Humpty Dumpty was pushed ''
hey guys i just got a 48 kb2 and i was wondering if they came with blinkers from the factory cause mine has blinkers on the top of the front fenders and i want to take them off but idk if they need blinkers
The Jalopy Journal
