sbc 327

Bad idea ! Phillips my a$$ Phillips should have been shot for designing something so useless.

Get yourself some 1/4" Allen head cap screws (bolts) and you are set to go.

Do it properly or not at all

 

If you are driving it on the street and not drag racing . Keep it simple. Balance it, don't over cam maybe something around 238 duration...max, bump the compression up to a point where you can still run pump gas, maybe 10 to 1 or less, toss in some Roades lifters to keep a strong vacuum signal, if you are running Q-jet just clean it up. Dual plane intake maybe a copy of the old GM marine intake. Stay away from the 2.02 valves for the street. Intake velocity is too low for good fuel mix. The big valve heads while good at the strip will suck fuel and deliver crappy throttle response on the street. It is possible to screw up all the coolness of the 327 by trying to make it into a 350.
You can drive by a group of gearheads with a close to stock 327 and with a 350 and all the heads will turn to see the car with the 327...the sound is perfect. Anyone can build a 350 and it will sound like eeerr a 350. Not everyone has a 327. If you have a 327 you are lucky ...enjoy it and don't screw it up..it came from the factory dang near perfect.....I will never sell mine.

 

After the internals , remember a dual plane intake is better for low end torque , also if you're running a Holley you can really tweak it by changing the jets , venturi's and throttle progression cams , to fine tune your final pedal feel .

 

Just built a 327 last week. Alot of good info. Gears, roller hydralic cam, dual plane intake and headers. The 700 rs is a decent choice if you are running an automatic because of its low 1st gear. The impala is a heavy car.

Do not expect this to be a torque motor, but it will be able to wind up . Depending on your funds, Have the rotating assembily balanced ($ 150). The early small journal cranks were steel, so they are very strong.

Best to you.

V

 

why would you put a long duration cam in a smogger compression ratio engine ?

 

First off I would put those heads on a shelf and put on some 1.94"s intake. I rebuilt a 327 for my 70 suburban years ago, .030" over 10 to 1 pistons 1.94" heads and a Schneider mild hydralic cam. Drove it cross country and got 15/17 MPG and had plenty of balls to tow a trailer and drive around town it weighed 4700#. A friend of mine and SS racer who has past on could get a brick to fly with small conservative Chevy stuff. No need to spend lots of money to get the same results as one who just tweaked their 327.

Pat

 

small journal 327, 350hp cam, 1:94 heads (double hump) ported, dpoint distb. converted to electronic Pertronix, dual chain timing, std. oil pump, choice of 3-2s, 2-4s, or 600cfm Edlebrock on performer intake.
Put all this in a 62 Chevy 2 sedan body with 4 speed muncie and 3:70 gears.
Go hunt up some Mustangs, Road Runners, big block Chevelles, etc.
Have a HELL of a lot of fun!
Been there, done it.
Cooger

 

just had 2 junk pertronix out of the box
bought a mallory unilite distributor , nice big hall effect on the mallory

 

I don't know why people put these things in, a stock HEI lasts for miles and parts are available everywhere. If concerned about looks get the small cap HEI. People can get pretty anal about correctness as opposed to usefullness and dependability.

Pat

 

pretty obivious this dude has never tried to put an HEI in a motor with 2-4s or 3-2's.
cooger

 

I love 327's. In my '62 I'm running a 'virgin' (approx. 60,000mi) 300hp/327 out of a '64 Impala SS... 1.94 camel backs, 10.5:1's, 650cfm on an Edelbrock RPM intake, HEI. When I got the engine I swapped out the 300hp cam for a Summit 224/224 cam. She runs sweet! For being a heavy, old pickup it's "ok" off the line, but once you get the RPM's up she runs like a bat outta hell! Very fun to drive and you can't beat the sound of a 327 through a set of 'packs'...

 

Yea a good starting place. They have a pretty wide power band and good to about 5200 with a stockish valve train.

I would keep compression to about 9.5 - 10.5:1. Depends on what you can get for gas in your area. If you want to spend money a set of 6" rods is a good choice. It will lower your fuel requirements a little by increasing your dwell time. I would not go below 9.5:1 compression is your friend.

 

I'm not real convinced that you could tell the difference just from the "drive by" sound.

 

I'm in the process, 327 + .040", '68 2.02-1.6 valve heads w/ hardened exh seats and screw in studs, forged flat top pistons, good rods, steel crank, balanced, small roller cam, aluminum flywheel, Doug Nash 4+1, 3.07 rear. I have a 3000# car: in your case, I'd use 3.73 rear, OD automatic and small hyd roller. Good advice in keeping 1.94- 1.5 valves.