Hey hope everyone’s having a good day. I recently just got my motor back from a shop getting rebuilt. Got resurfaced and re honed for the block and heads and new rings and such. I just order a Comp Cams Hyd. Roller camshaft with .502 Intake/ .510 Exhaust. Duration 276°/282°. Lobe Sep 110°. I just got the cam and lifters and was wondering if I can use the stock pushrods as well as stock rockers and springs. Also wondering about the break in process for the cam. Thank you guys
That much lift id upgrade springs and retainers. I hope you have the proper converter and gears to match the cam
No special break in for a roller cam. I would use roller rockers, the springs and retainers should have been matched to the cam and checked for clearance at .510 lift. Also I would not run those pressed in studs. The heads need to come off and be built to match the cam.
Like has been said, no break in for a roller cam. Call comp cams and see what they recommend by way of valve springs. I’m actually about to do the same thing, but haven’t gotten that far yet.
I would go to Comp Cams web page and look under 'Recommended Components' for what is suggested.. https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-224-230-hydraulic-roller-cam-for-chevrolet-small-block.html
You will be wasting your time and hard earned money by just installing a roller cam without doing your homework. You absolutely need springs matched to the cam and pushrod length needs to be checked on every custom build , depending on stack height of block , gasket , amount of head milling etc. aftermarket heads especially. There is also piston to valve clearance that should be checked. although you are probably safe I always check. Just saying dot your I's and cross your T's
Buy some of those soft springs for checking valve opening, they are cheap. Then test assemble the engine and rotate it with some clay on top of a piston. You can use your old bearings for the rods and mains for the test, be sure to lube the cam bearings tho. Use a new head gasket just snugged down, so you don't ruin it. Doing that on one cylinder will tell you if your valves and piston have enough clearance between them. The clay will show where the valve pushed on it and you measure that thickness to see if there is plenty of clearance. You can get a small box of clay at Hobby Lobby. You need to be sure you have clearance before final assembly. Look on U tube for some videos showing you how to do it. You also need to verify that your springs won't bottom out (coil bind) and your valve retainer doesn't hit your valve guide when the valve is at full lift.
Hyd Roller cam with that lift (sbc) needs 160-180 on seat ,will need to check for coil bind @ full valve open , it would best to have a pair of solid roller lifters (2) to check your coil bind ,, yr retro will need shorter push rod , for correct length you will need adjustable set up pushrods , also in your push rod measurement you also will have to account for plunger preload, No break in for cam Just plenty of lube & oil prime while rotating engine by hand before installing
^^^^ stock heads your getting close ,, ( guide to retainer) Valve to piston Clarence needs to be checked on sbc when over .480 ish lift ,& pin or screw in rocker studs
If your over your head on the budget , save the cam for the future and get a milder cam ....Button up the motor and have some fun...
It most likely the heads are going to come off. Across the various posts most have hit upon the things that need to be checked and fixed if needed: Valve springs matched to cam. They may be bigger OD than stock spring pocket on head. If so the pocket needs to be machined. The current valve retainer to guide clearance may not be enough for that cam. Depending on how much it needs to be right, you may fix it with different retainers, If not the guide needs trimming. You may want to cut the guides for different seals as well. Check rocker centering on valve and adjust pushrod length to fix as needed. Valve to piston check. Rocker studs. As a minimum pin. Screw in probably better with that cam. Good luck.
Stock GM Vortec 95-99 5.7 (350) Roller heads would work , good for max.520 lift , (the springs) are close to coil bind Open ,(stock spring) on seat 170 ish pressure .. Vortec are Better then Old 2.02 heads breathing ,cfms. """Valve to piston will need to be checked """ On intake , Middle 4 bolt valve covers , Off brand copy intake ($140-$200) 8 straight down /vertical bolts, & push rods need to be checked & measured with this combo also .
I don't know of any SBC roller cams that wont need shorter pushrods. And it's not as easy as just buying a certain length and hoping the rocker arm tips ride centered on the valve stems. The only time that works if if it is a factory roller motor SBC, and you have factory lifters, and pushrods.
As mentioned already, you want to check with Comp Cams to find out the min and max spring rates. That cam is most likely a Austemper camshaft. That is a tempered iron which is in the middle between the steel cams and the cast iron cams. Most of their roller cams are Austempered. I know on the big block cam I was sent from a shop, the Austemper cam wouldn't work. Max spring pressure open was limited to 500 and we were going to spin the engine close to 7000. If you call their tech support, they can tell you the numbers for spring rates and power band and just about anything else you need to know about it. Also if you go roller rockers (which you should) what ratio is the valve lift calculated for on the card? If you put a bigger roller rocker on it, it will increase the lift and you might have clearance problems. You can figure the lift by taking the lobe X the rocker ratio. The lobe will be on the cam card that came with the cam.
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