OK, I did a search, but didn't really find the answer to my question. This is a question for the SBC gods... I freshened up a 4-bolt 350 about 2 1/2 years ago. The block checked out at the machine shop,basically new cam/rod/crank bearings, rings, rebuilt camel hump 202's, I put in Comp XE274H-10 (p/n 12-246-3). I only used the stuff Comp supplied with the cam, but the engine sat for over 2 years on a stand. I had some "rookie" moments on initial start up (valves were set too tight, dist was 180 out...) Anyways, I turned it over quite a few times before it actually fired. I ended up running it up for about 20 mins over 2000rpm. I remembered hearing about how critical cam break in is on a flat tappet cam, so I got to searching, and all I keep hearing is the cam won't last. I decided to bite the bullet and bought new cam, lifters, gasket set, ect... I pulled the old cam today, and it seems good, wear seems minimal and even, no pitting or chunks missing...My question is do I return the new cam and lifters? (I can really use the 250$) Not sure if anyone has had a similar experience, and what did you do?
I really hope you pre-lubed it prior to starting (spun the oil pump with a primer pump shaft in the distributor hole to build oil pressure while rotating the engine by hand).......that engine was dry as a bone if it sat for 2 years !
Yes, I made a pre-lube tool out of an old dizzy. After the 20 min run, I let it sit over night, and in the morning fired right up. It runs really stong. My question is I am not sure if I should keep the old cam or not...
It will be fine, as long you did not burn a exhaust valve. But you need a piece of mine replace it. Just don't throw it a away, it will still more then likely good. Mark the lifter to match the corresponding cam lobe. Should not have damaged an exhaust valve, from being lean on exhaust stroke.
I would bet its okay..... but then again, I just wiped one smooth last Sun on a shake down run...... Seriously, though, I would make sure its adjusted with the proper preload, change the oil, add ZDDP and run it.
. ..My question is do I return the new cam and lifters? (I can really use the 250$) Not sure if anyone has had a similar experience, and what did you do? That's a silly question. Get your 250 and pay the rent. Buy a cam when you can afford it. Comps big thing is to break in the cam with soft springs or you'll experience pre mature cam wear. Thar's a whole **** involved with that and they don't spell it out. Did you do that ? If you've just eye balled it for wear, you should mic it. Did you do that? Running high zinc oil? If it goes flat youll make a mess of the rest of your new build and possibly ruin it. If you didn't do as they said there's a good chance it will.
I forgot to mention I ran an extra quart and a half. Oil I used was Royal Purple Break In oil (with Zinc) and a bottle of Comp's cam break in additive. My plan is to re-coat the lobes with Moroso 35000 Moly past, and run the RP braek in oil with additive for the next few runs (100miles or so).
Yep, you are; but to think ain't bad..I would say you did good...As long as you can put the lifters back in the same hole you will be fine..
I was told to use Shell Rotella 15W40...works out for me, same oild I buy for my truck...'09 ***mins 12valve.
No they didn't but they had good oil back then.. Factory fires engines on natural gas. Checks for knocks, leaks, and a couple of quick tests. Then it's off to its destination.. I used to get a kick out of the unexpected bangs and complications.. Off to the repair station.
Im sure it's probally fine. Rarely do you ever fire an engine the first time and keep it running perfectly for 25 or so minutes. I think the whole things over-blown. I've know alotta them that were never even "broken in" proper. Slapped in and run. I think your ok (Cross your fingers)
Return the parts for a refund and run the old stuff. If a cam doesn't develop wear problems during break in, the surfaces work harden and last a long time. There's always a chance of having a problem with the new one. "if it ain't broke don't fix it"
If you were wiping out the lobes or the lifters you would hear it clattering or ticking like a loose rocker arm. At least thats what mine did!
I would always run an additive or an oil that has the ZDDP. I tore down a 401 nailhead to reseal the upper end,ran good. It had been sitting about a week before I ran it last and when I got down to view the camshaft,I noticed it had pitting on the sides of the lobes. I ran my finger over the lobes to fell the pits and it was just as dry as if it was brand new in the box. Supposedly the ZDDP leaves a clinging oil film on the parts to help with dry start ups. If you will go to the net and enter engine oil zinc and phosphate as a general search. Look for an article that was listed several years ago under the address of Pontiac Performance Magazine. All of the major oil companies give their take on the situation. A hell of a lot of info !!!
Dont put that RP **** in it, Joe GIbbs make a very high quality break-in oil, run that aslong as you like, or switch to there HR-2 10w30 dinosaur oil, or HR4 if you want synthetic. No additive needed if you run the proper oil in the first place.
Yes....add the zinc !!!!!!! Cheap insurance. Today's enviro-oils do not have enough of it....... Good question, re; factory run - in,.....? What DO they do ? 4TTRUK
From everything you listed, you did it exactly right. I guess your concern was the valves being tight and it not firing initially, but in the real world that happens sometimes. Drain the oil, put in your favorite brand (Rotella seems to have a high load of zinc compared to most off the shelf brands these days) and dump in a bottle of zinc additive EVERY TIME YOU CHANGE THE OIL FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE. I will get flack for saying that, but it is cheaper than buying engine parts. We have been using Lucas Zinc Additive with every oil change in our flat tappet cammed motors and are having great luck. I called Lucas and they said to put a full bottle in with the very first break in mix, then add only 1/2 bottle every time we change the oil. He said it gives something like 2700 ppm of zinc, but that is Greek to me, so I just do it. Send the new cam back, you are better off with one that is already proving itself than an unknown cam you have yet to break in. Don
Ive looked at most every post on the HAMB about engine oils in the last year and have read that you need around 1100 ppm of zinc to properly lube a flat tappet cam. Ive also seen where the Rotella and Dello diesel oils have been reformulated and while they have more zinc than normal engine oils, its not near the 1100 ppm mark. I add 1/2 bottle of Redline break in additive at every oil change on flat tappet engines.
ive built so many sbc and have had very few problems, but lately im afraid to even start a new engine up for the first time! the more i read the more afraid i become!!! lol we used to throw them together and go racin, never even waited for much of a break in and like i said never had much problems. even put a few abck togehter and got the lifters in the wrong holes... still lasted.. im really gettin paranoid!!!!!
Remember that the formulas change. What was good 5 years ago may not be up to snuff today. I was panicing when my new engine would not start immediately too. Many of the new oil additives advertize that they have the Zinc that the oil Co.s removed. I did not want to crank and crank with a new motor. I used Rislone additive and when we got it going everything seems OK.
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