Thanks for all the info.When I pull the pan again I will check the numbers on the crank and also get the numbers from the heads and post them.
I Just read one of the replys,It says they all have a 4" bore.If the bore and bearings are all still standard.Would it be safe to go ahead and order a overhaul kit for a 69-70-350?Also who has the best deals on them? Thanks
I used these guys for a rebuild kit for my 350 http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=65 Also does anybody have a set of 350 2 bolt main caps off a junk block ?
This is a good site for small and big block chevy info http://www.chevymania.com/ The numbers and letters on the front pad on p***enger side of block tells when ***embled and what vehicle is was used in casting date on rear.
Are the 327 and 350 cranks ground the same?Will I be able to just get a standard rebuild kit for the motor if evrything is still standard?Motor runs just has blow by when you have the breather off.You can see it in the valve cover.Plus it has bad oil smell when car is running.Cant see it burning ,But will kill you if you have the garage door closed.
Northern autoparts www.northernautoparts.com has a good price on a rering kit that comes with main and rod bearings. I'm running one of their rering kits in my daily driver 71 GMC with a 350 right now. Also check The Loper Performance adds in the backs of the rod magazines. I have had great luck with their kits.
I Just read one of the replys,It says they all have a 4" bore.If the bore and bearings are all still standard.Would it be safe to go ahead and order a overhaul kit for a 69-70-350? Thanks
i wouldn't order any parts until you take it apart and inspect it. check the cylinder bore accurately with micrometer or a bore gauge. it may look good , but you don't know for sure until you measure. it may need a bore. also inspect the crankshaft....use a micrometer on every journal at least two directions to make sure it isn't egg shaped and in spec's. it may even be undersize already , i have seen that before on engines that have never been apart northern auto parts is good
I have a engine with the same block casting #s. Checked the crank # on mortec site . It is a 69 327 3941174 cast. All info there.
1968 3970010 327 - - 2 A 1969-79 3970010 350 185 370 2 or 4 car, truck, Vette I got them from http://www.geocities.com/meanracing/BlockCastingInformation.html
Not true. The 010 block was cast all the way through the 70's and is one of the most common blocks. I have pulled them out of mid 70's camaros, trucks, big cars, etc - and have seens casting dates as late as 1978 on them. This is an early style heavy casting block without the provision for a road draft tube. The 014 block is pretty much identical to the 010 but is much less likely to be one of the special high nickle/ high tin blocks. This is an early style heavy casting block without the provision for a road draft tube. They were cast along side each other for some odd reason for several years at least. You need to look under the timing cover to see if it has 010 cast in there to see if its a high nickle block. Nickle makes the block harder and more resistant to wear and somewhat stronger. Tin makes the molten iron flow better so you tend to have more uniform castings. One 010 cast in = high nickle block with more nickle (I forget how much - maybe 0.1% more) Two 010's cast in = high nickle/tin block. One 010 and a 020 - the best factory block. High Nickle/tin, but with twice as much extra nickle added as in the block with the 010 under the timing cover. In 1980 they went to a lightweight casting block that is weaker and has the dipstick on the other side. A 207 casting is common on these blocks. They were made until they went roller cam and 1 piece rear main seat.
this is getting close to be seriously over thought it's a 350 chevy....are you going racing? 2 bolt/4 bolt won't make a difference in a street car....high nickle/low nickle/no nickle it won't matter freshen it up , put it in your hot rod and have fun
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