SBC cooling/ timing advance etc...

I'm not sure what you mean here. Air could come in hitting the condenser and then the rad, and then shoot upwards by the efan since I don't have a shroud.

I'm going to to take some measurements. The CFR part was the closest I could find so far that might fit. The Vintage Air stuff needs a lot of t*******, the one I would have to use would require that I cut out the whole center hole.

 

John, Think about going down the hiway at road speed & the air being pushed thru your grill. Of course you have side filler panels by the rad., but how about if over the top of it was sealed off, reasonably speaking. Then all that wind would be forced to go thru your rad. core instead of taking the path of less resistance & going around, over, or under it. Speaking of which, some cars came with filler panels at the bottom level of the rad, & going forward up to the grill/fender line to prevent an easy bottom exit for all that wind pressure. These top panels from the factory usually mounted to the hood edge & also served as a hood stiffener brace. Came down almost touching the core support when the hood is closed. I ask because I'm not familiar if a Merc. had such a thing. The 55 to 57 Chevys do, for example.

 

My Merc has this box deal that sits on top of the rad, I think it's supposed to keep air from getting in there maybe?

 

Sure looks like it'll help. Someone did some nice work builing that. Great pic.

 

When I look around at 26 wide x 17.5 tall rads, I find some 1980-87 Caprice stuff and also Mopar stuff. I think if the shroud, turning fans on sooner, and timing don't work out, I will buy a new radiator.

 

Just came across this Jegs one, looks promising:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/52065/10002/-1?parentProductId=1040685

 

Great info here...subscribed.
Im in same exact boat now with my 58 Brookwood wagon. Except I have a cater AFB carb(same as edelbrock) on a stock castiron intake.

 

"I have very little room it's like 2.5-2.7 inches."

I would look at electric fans with shrouds from some late model cars, because you have so little room.
The fan and shroud on my Model A is from an '88 Chevy Celebrity.
It is 18" x 17" and about 2-3/4" thick.
Similar fans were used on all the mid-sized GM FWD cars around that time.
They came with either straight or swirl blades.
I've used the swirl bladed ones. I think they pull more air but are a little noisier.
The Celebrity radiator is bigger than the shroud so I wouldn't worry that it wouldn't cover your entire radiator core.
There are some ribs on the shroud to strengthen it but it could be placed were the ribs wouldn't be in the way.
I'm pretty sure my fan p***es more air than the one you have now.

 

I'll check out this idea.

 

Grrr going to see my inlaws in Grand Haven MI this weekend, no wrench time that ****s. I'll have to see if i can squeeze in some time Thursday night. I might buy that Jegs universal shroud, though I'm very tempted to look for a shroud + fan + rad deal and swap it all out at the same time. I can't remember any of the ordering detail of the fan I have, and I'm concerned that I bought a 1300 cfm one, and is that enough fan? I'm thinking 2500+ would be good.

Also, what is reccomended gap on the sides between the rad and the body, so that the paint won't get messed up, one inch? Gah I have a million questions.

 

Question: if the brake power booster were leaking air inside could that cause vacuum leak affecting idle, heating?

 

1. Keep your fuel filter and hose from touching the engine
2. keep your ignition wires away from the headers and flanges.
3. run a 180 degree t-stat with the A/c
4. your cooling fan should run whenever the a/c is on
5. setup you idle with the a/c running
6. adjust your idle mix evenly, the drivers side screw is in too far
7. DO NOT over tighten your carb hold down nuts

 

Thanks Rick.

 

I run my vac advance on the p*** port. I have great throttle response, idle is consistent and I am very consistent with my temp. I am running the same carb, alum intake, .030 small block. I have heard lots of debates on that port. When I put it on the drives side, my timing increased, I didn't re adjust idle though. anyway I'll try it on the drivers side, but the p*** side doesn't give me any qualms at all.

Make sure your belts are tight enough and not slippin, that way your pump and alt are running full potential.

for timing, I don't think anyone mentioned. Each engine is different and we don't know your cam specs. I would just shoot for 10-12 base timing meaning un hook you vac advance hose, plug it off port. Set timing and idle so you can run at 10-12deg. AC on was a great point. Then plug vac hose back on. You should see your timing at idle be up in the 20's. Then rev the engine up and up and up at a slow rate, you should see your timing go up. Rev till the timing won't go anymore. It should be about 32-36 somewhere in there. I'd get a tach, makes things a lot easier. Vac gauge too, that thing will help you out a ton.

 

Actually, they don't say that - they say except for intake 2101 & 3701 which may come with that plate. They make 11 spreadbore intakes that all have same mounting flange - the tops are identical, i don't know why those two are 'exempt', they shouldn't be. You might get lucky and not have a vacuum leak, luck should not be a part of mechanics.

 

Is every one running their Chevy with full manifold vacuum on the distributor advance?

I have never done that, I always thought the mechanical advance was good, then acceleration opened vacuum for more advance. Huh. Weird, 'cause all the cars I've done it this way on run like a top.

 

What kind of carbs and exactly where did you hook up the vacuum advance tubing?

 

I've started talks with a friend of mine with a shop in Niles about bringing the car by and having him check the timing, maybe recurve the distributor, check over some of the carb stuff, even talking about going back to a mechanical fan and shroud... He said something that made sense to me... Once that iron block is hot, it's not going to cool back a ton.

Man I used to have friends around who I could meet up with and we'd help each other out, but not that everyone is in their 30's/40's/50's they are busy or not messing with cars anymore. I have to say, I don't like Gen I engines whatsoever, every time I lean over this engine I imagine putting an LS2 with LS3 heads in there and making 430rwhp stock cam with headers.

I'm feeling a little ranty right now between working all day and two kids under the age of 6 I find myself only able to carve out like 2-3 hours a week to mess with the car. ARGGGHHHHH!!!!

 

I'm with you. I remember the f-body days. Seemed alot easier at times but there is really nothing different from what we are doing now. Just no computer telling us whats wrong. You'll get it figured out. Best of luck to you.

-Jim

 

Jim were you an LS1'er too, hung out on 'Tech?

I'm sooo SBC ignorant I don't know what to do next because maybe the engine is running so sh%tty that it makes the whole combo run hot.

 

It's a learning experience.

Take it one thing at a time; Carb, Vac, Timing, Cooling sys (Rad, Fan, Pump, etc)

Engines don't just run hot for no good reason.

Even with OBD electronic shtuff new engines aren't immune from stumping mechanics.

 

Actually-when you open the throttle plate to accelerate,vacuum goes away-so you get no vacuum advance when the throttle is wide open.(mechanical advance-the weights in the dizzy take over)
Full manifold vacuum will give you extra advance at part throttle(low load) and idle conditions which is what you want.-by firing the mixture earlier(before the piston reaches TDC)there is a more complete burn of the fuel/air mixture.
Result-cooler operating temps and better fuel economy with no degradation of power.

 

Interesting. Thanks for such a descriptive answer, I'm gonna look into this.

 

Dont give up on it. It will work out, actually you're probably closer than you think to getting the bugs worked out of it now. Id say focus on one issue at a time you'll get there. Its a cool car Ive been looking forward to seeing it maybe at the pile up?

 

Thanks, Not sure on the Pileup, car would have to run great for me to consider driving to Decatur.

I have gotten it running better so hopefully either I or my buddy will figure out stuff on it. He brought up the mechanical fan so I'm open either way. But it would (per him) definitely need a shroud then. I could tell from talking to him that he thinks my fan setup is not adequate.

 

He's right about the mech fan needing a shroud.

 

Although not traditional a twin puller electric fan set up would be the ticket. The mechanical fan would absolutely need a shroud and probably require more room.

 

I've got about 3 inches between the water pump and the rad. My buddy Steve and I talked about twin fans too, including JY stuff like Taurus fans etc.

 

I was. Grew up around the early stuff but went the late model route street racing ect. Finally went back to my roots.

-Jim

 

I.K., I'll give you a holler tomorrow.

Thanks for the help guys, I won't really be able to do much unless I have time to lower starting temp for the efan and then drive it around and see if lowers the operating temp. I'll try to squeeze that in and another 4-5 mile drive.