Hot Rods SBC Edelbrock manifold comparison

No Chrondek trees on Main Street USA!

 

Me anal? Never, and the last thing I would do is pick another guy’s car apart. I know what I like and that’s what I drive, built about 98% by me.
Do I like every car I see? Of course not but I keep those opinions to myself, I don’t know another persons reasons for building what they did. Financial, personal taste, not knowing better, the need to have the biggest, baddest engine, looking for those valuable show points, there are many factors that enter into what we do.
What I do appreciate is a cohesive theme that looks like there was some thought behind it. I’d never own a zip code car, it has to be a reacher, it better be able to go anywhere. I’ve driven my channeled 5W in light snow, blazing heat, through frog stranglers on the interstate and more. Some like to go out for an ice cream cone and that’s fine but to me they don’t know what they are missing.

 

Impressive way to convert a drag intake!
I had one an they drilled head's for 90's

 

I agree with this.

 

C3bx . I run a C4b,327, 10.2 c.r. , .500 lift solid roller. It won't cruise at less than 2000 rpm. The trans and rear gear make it very drive-able . 750 3310 carb is ok, however 670 carb might be perfect .

 

The C3BX was introduced in 1971 so not really HAMB friendly either...

 

I guess I have failed...
I built my car the way I wanted it, so it would work...not to impress some uber-anal "period correct" nosepickers.

 

I just leave my hood closed, and show 'em my taillights.

 

I did some research a while ago, and while we know everything on the internet is true and correct, the c4b, which your c3bx is a derivative of, had bigger runners, and in some circles was the better choice certainly for a cheap bastard like me, who won't pay more than 40 bucks for an intake, the c3b would be my choice. While the newer one may give you some advantage for mileage,, overall the difference is so negligible as to not matter but for looks

 

Or:
64-65 GM issue.




Or:
66-67 GM issue.
And the fill holes are already there on both styles.


Mine

 

The C3BX is an older intake and reminds me of the old Z28 or LT 1 Winters factory intakes .
Comparing the ports,,,,the C3 does have larger ports,,,,,I’m assuming they have been opened up at some earlier time ?
The C3 runners appear to be cast larger as well .

The Perfomer is a taller intake,,,,,and ,,,,the runners,,,although taller,,,, seem to be somewhat smaller externally .
The Performer feels to be heavier as well,,,,,,it’s enough I can feel it by just picking it up .
Here are pics of the ports as they are now .

 

Here are what I plan to use for valve covers and ignition .
I’ve had the Mickeys for many years,,,,,,just waiting for a need .
They are really filthy,,,,but I can clean and polish them back up .
Also,,,gonna use the Wing tie downs,,,,,,I’m reminiscing some I guess,,,,lol .

The ignition is gonna be an HEI,,,,,.

Wait a minute,,,,,wait a minute ,,,,,,,,just kidding !,,,,,,psych,,,,,!

This is an old cast iron ,,,tach drive,,,,,Dual Point !
Had it for a while,,,,,just me I guess,,,,,LoL .

 

Sorry Mark,, about the distributor joke ,,,I figured your heart palpitations might get out of hand,,,,LoL .

Tommy

 

I don't have anything against someone building their car with old parts, but unless you have 1960's air in the tires, leaded gas in the tank, 60's wheel weights on your rims, 60's grease in your ball joints, every nut and bolt and wiring etc. etc. from the 60's then you're still just pretending to be something your not.

 

Technically all petroleum products are HAMB friendly
Dinosaurs predate 1965 considerably

we’re probably breathing recycled Dino air and drink recycled Dino urine as well

 

Whichever way you go it'll look good, I've been running a dual point in one of my engines for the past 10+ yrs, it's good to my 6200 shift points, so that should work great too.

 

Trying to talk a friend out of a vette tach drive dizzy
Fingers crossed

 

Not trying to be anything

 

Performance wise, my engine didn't have any problem turning 6500 with either manifold.

Gary

 

The older intake, valve covers, and iron distributor will go together pretty well. Although...if it has a tag on it, it might be worth a bunch to a Vette restorer, and you could get a Mallory dual point, which was very common on engines that got the other go-fast parts installed on them. Most guys tended to ditch the stock ignition, even though it worked great with a recurve.

 

Hi Jim ,
I have a really nice Mallory dual point,,,,,but I’m saving it to be converted for my Flathead .
I might be wrong,,,,but I don’t think the iron distributor I have ,,,,,has a tag on it .
And besides,,…I rarely run upon anything that anyone wants .
Most of my stuff is castoffs and hand me downs,,,,no one needs my junk .,,,, .

Of course,,,,I do own a couple of Hemis,,,,,,,many 440s,,,,,a cherry Flathead that is gonna be a great engine,,,,,,and multiples of superchargers,,,,fuel injection systems,,,,,a few nice SBC engines .
Where am I going with this,,,,,,?,,,,,hummmmm,,,,,maybe I need to check on that tag after all .
Lol,,,LoL .

Tommy

 

The tag is an aluminum strip, with numbers stamped, wrapped around the distributor neck where the red circle is. Many are gone. Some, if they're dirty enough that no one noticed it and took it off, are still there. Even without a tag, the distributor is worth something to the Vette guys. Many years ago I picked up two of the electronic version tach drive units, ten bucks a pop at the swap meet...no tags...sold one that week for $350, used the other for several years then sold it for bucks also. You never know. If it's a dual point, they're rare, and might be worth looking into.

 

I've got the Performer RPM, but my engine is a little higher performance build so I made one change. I have an open plenum spacer under my Holley to help the Performer a little more on the top end. Doesn't seem to feel any different on lower rpm's, but it does pull harder after around 4500 rpm's.

 

I'd go for the air gap myself......

 

When it comes to factory intakes, the Z/28-LT-1 outflows them all....

 

We drink 3 billion year old comet water every day.....

 

With that level of cubes, the RPM manifold won't give you more torque, but will raise the peak RPM of the torque curve. For typical street driving with the goal being off the line seat of the pants torque, the lower intake is best... the good thing about your RPM though is that the plenum isn't cut like the C3BX. Either way, the difference between the 2 on a mild 350 is going to be negligible.

 

Garage sales and eBay are a great source of old parts. While you are spot on, I actually did run 60s grease my dad bought at a yard sale until my last bearing repack(1967 military surplus) 60s points, wire rolls, just bought some lifters dated 1967 for my Chevy, and a bunch of 70s stuff. Not to say look at me, or brag, I'm just cheap and like old stuff. I'm sure the new stuff is better, but that Military grease was nice stuff, in the green metal can. Goes with my plumb tools, and early snap on stuff. I guess I never realized how old my stuff is, and I'm only 50, this is all recently acquired, except the tools, over the last 15 years or so.

 

Take a look at this test: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/dual-plane-intake-manifold-comparisons/
A regular Performer(closest thing to a C3BX that Edelbrock makes today) vs a RPM.
At 3000 rpm the RPM is already making 4 more lb-ft than a Performer.