It HAS to turn the same direction as the rotor would turn no matter what engine you are doing it on. OP's main problem was not having the oil passages blocked off well enough with the "tool" he was using. The modified old distributor always seems to work better for this than the aftermarket tools.
If you mount intake manifold & distributor, remove plugs, spin with starter. No time at all will be pumping oil at rockers. Phil
I'm pretty sure thats the problem, not my first motor to assemble just the first SBC. Fairly certain everything else is in decent shape with plenty of assembly lube. Will try again when my new primer tool arrives, if it still pours over I'll call it good and button it up. Thanks everybody.
That's what I did,,, It still took a little over an hour. I will say this, after I took the front galley plug out by the timing cover, it gushed all over the place for a couple seconds, then it started to make some progress. Must have had an air lock in the galley somewhere.
Looks like my issue was crappy priming tool. New one seals oil galleys in distributor hole and all rockers are oiling with spinning of the motor. Thanks for all the good advice. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
With all of the engines I have built in my career, I have NEVER had to prime an oil system for an hour before getting oil to the rockers. Ten minutes at the very most. I’ve done Fords, Chevys, and Chryslers. But, I’ve always used an old, modified distributor. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
ive had an issue with priming my motor.i purchased a priming tool from jegs.no oil to the passenger side .after assessing the primer we concluded the problem was the tool.the groove in the lower bushing were not lining up with the groove in the distributer.we machined another lower bushing and tried it out now theres oil at the pass side as well.crap tool from jegs.will only buy branded tools in the future.if i had a spare dizzy id use that but since i dont im going for a ARP product a brand i can trust
Are your valves adjusted correctly? I noticed the adjuster nuts are pretty far down . I suggest you recheck your lash with the lifters pumped up now . You wouldn’t want to kiss the pistons . Hydraulic lifters still need proper adjustment.
Mr Truck Doctor , we think the same , I prime every think including the Cummins rebuilds , for them I made a 4 in PVC pipe container piped into port where oil gauge would go , pressurize with a shot of air . Do this about 3 or 4 times not one issue . You can do a gas engine the same process if you don’t want to spin the pump . I have done lots that have sat for years and not wanting to spin the pump .
Collar is loose on those tools, and isn't fixed to the shaft, so the shaft spins and the collar sits in the intake not moving.
On my SBM, I found the 2 crankshaft positions that allow oil to flow to the rockers and then marked the harmonic balancer for each. When I was ready to prime I simply rotated to those locations (1 for the drivers side, one for the passenger side rockers), and then spun the drill motor for 2 minutes in each location.
I don't get why the need to rotate the crank....? The rear main bearing has a grove in it to feed the cam and lifter galleys...?
THAT ^^^^ is very true BUT.... The whole idea behind priming the engine is to make sure ALL the stuff inside has oil on it before the engine is spun over ! I have been in the OP's shoes a few times and there is a large 'pucker-factor'.... involved even when you get signs of 'good oiling' ! All the time spent cleaning/measuring/fitting/modifying/torquing (not twerking!) all the money!/ pulling/installing....on-and-on he wants all his bases covered so there will be a BIG stupid grin instead of an ahhhhhh crap when the engine fires to life.... IF you got oil to the top end...you should be ready to far-it !!! 6sally6
Does Not solve this issue that the OP has, a bucket with 3 or so quarts of Oil & a oil pump a drill , tap into oil galley , Things I have done ,
I always just used some STP or simular in the pump on assembly , fill the filter, I do put some oil in the lifters with a oil can . ( some manufacturers say do not prelude there lifters) I take a suction gun that's full of oil and pump it back out down the oil pressure guage port then install the line or sensor . I spin it over a couple times with the starter with the ignition of to get the pump pumping with no load and then fire it and watch the guage while moving the distributor to rough set timing . Looking at the pictures with the intake and valve covers off and all this screwing with a open engine now with oil in the valley I'd be more concerned with dust and dirt than if it's trimmed. Properly built and assembly lubed it's likely got 10 times more lube on the moving parts than any time after the initial start up going forward. The biggest thing IMO is setting the hyd lifters the correct number of turns after the plunger is being depressed . I don't know how it's taking guys a hour of running a drill to prelude a engine . I never experienced that the few times I tried one. On all but stock I use lighter springs on flat tappet lifters for break in.
In my experience engines with & with out distributors , Oil priming has been instant to less then 10 seconds . I have seen No oil with Wrong lifters , With small base circle cams , or some where bearings installed wrong. Seem to remember something about older Gm V8s like pre early 60s , rear main or rear cam bearing or plug ?
i experienced it using a piece of crap oil primer from Jegs.i had to modify it with a new lower bushing on the shaft,to get oil from it .a typical crap china tool.they tried to copy it having no idea of how it worked.fuck jegs ill not buy from them again
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