What he said, pull all the drive belts, fire it up and check for your vibration. Basic trouble shooting says cut the problem in half until there is only one component left in the bad half. You already know it's probably forward of the pilot bearing, and behind the radiator, now start eliminating half of what's left.
I had a similar problem---pulled off the flywheel cover on a hoist and started her up. The flywheel had been planed but the end of the crank where it bolts on had NOT BEEN CLEANED. Cleaned it up, put it all together and no more problem. Just a thought.
The s 10 imput shaft is metric......if you use the one from a nornal SBC its not metric....the od is the same....Id is different
A common mistake when installing a clutch pressure plate is getting the first 3 bolts in correct holes. The pressure plate has 6 bolt holes, 3 of them are smaller diameter. You install 3 bolts in these small holes and draw them up evenly. Then install the other 3 bolts an torque all bolts . If you don't do this procedure the plate will be off center and off balance. Seen this many times and corrected out of balance condition by this procedure. Hope this may be of help to you.
I had a harmonic vibration on my 327/340hp Corvette motor from 1800- 3000 rpm after the rebuild. Had the harmonic balancer rebuilt ($180), put it back together and the vibration was WORSE. Come to find out that the fan clutch has a pilot hole that was slightly bigger than the centering shaft of the water pump, so when I installed the fan clutch, it was off center. To test my theory, I removed the fan clutch, put it all back together without the fan / fan clutch and test drove the car....no vibration! I have a smaller inside diameter fan clutch bushing that I expect will cause the fan clutch to center itself on the water pump centering shaft. I'll have it all back together tonight!
A FNG.. I knew it. You really should do an intro and not dredge up a 5 year old zombie post as your 1st contribution. But anyway, welcome!
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