So we tracked down the original engine builder for the "Inbomber" from the '60s and we're going to have him build back the 283 for the car. He needs a list of parts we want to use in the car. Now originally the car ran a 283ci 283hp Rochester injected mill, but injection just costs too much these days. What is certain about the new engine is that it will be 283ci with a Duntov cam, and Stahl fenderwell headers. And now onto the questionable things... -Differences between early/late 283 blocks? -Heads to use? (Will 327 double hump "fuelie" heads work? if not what should I look for?) -Pistons (pop-ups are cool...) -Steel crank/rods (where to find them for a 283?) -Induction (4 Rochesters? seems to be a kinda "simple" to use, powerful setup) -Cam (Duntov 097 or 30-30?) We want the engine to just be a solid little drag mill all the way through when it's done. Something that will be more on the compe***ion side but could be driven around town on occasion. Whats a good combo? Thanks, -Dean
one difference in 283 blocks is in 1959 chevy went to the two piece seal , before that it was a rope seal all 283 cranks were forged steel until up to about 1963 , after that most were cast..except maybe trucks? forged steel and cast are easy to tell apart..basically forged have a wide parting line and cast narrow
I thought all small journal 283s ran a forged crank, just like all small journal 327's. Fuelie heads will work as long as they are not the 2.02 valve version. Since you are not making it original anyways, why not build a larger, but milder engine so you don't have the maintainance needs? I would build a 350 dressed up to look like the 283 if you are on a budget, and just grind off the casting number. Other than that they look pretty much identical. I personally would go for a 6" rod 400 with a **** crank, and rods. That way you can internally balance it, and if you get a early 509 casting block, they oonly have two core plugs on the side, instead of the giveaway 3 that the more common blocks have. Run a nasty solid cam for the rumble and sewing machine sound, and a set of Iron Eagle 215's reworked to look like double humps. Its an easy 550hp combo that wil llive with little maintainance.
I am doing one with 461 heads and a newer nostalgia comp cam. Call them and they can probably grind a cam that will sound the same and get better performance
Forget the double hump heads and go with a set of World cast iron S/R Torquer 305 heads. They're 58cc with a 170cc runner, they will flow well on the 283, and they're not very expensive. Induction should be dual quads. That's what most of the dudes ran that got rid of the rochester FI units ran. Just get an early intake or drill a new one for the front filler tube. 67 283 blocks are the strongest so i've heard, and have thicker cylinder walls. Plus '67 still has the provision in the back of the block for a road draft tube, if that means anything to you.
Just a couple of things that I can add to the discussion: The first 283 block (1957) is basically an overbored 265 from what I've read. So, it can't be overbored as much as the 1958 and up blocks without sonic-checking first. Yes, the camel hump heads fit. I have a '57 283 with them on it right now. I would think most of the early small journal cranks are forged, look for the parting line differences as mentioned above. In my opinion, build the 283! Don't just "hide" a 350 in 283 disguise; this is a traditional forum after all!
Thanks for the info guys...like Tbomb428 said, this mill has to be a 283 and has to be period correct. Basically exactly what it would have run minus the injection. Normally I would disguise a bigger mill or something but it's important to this car that it's all correct. So I can run 1.94 double humps but no 2.02's? Dual quads would be cool... Anyone know which of the Duntov cam's came with the fuelie mills?...any other information would be great, thanks -Dean
Any block should be sonic checked before a bore job. Good 283 blocks used to be spotted by the casting around the front cam bearing being well centered, this shows an absence of core shift. This is still a good sign, but sonic checking is the final word. In the old days they would bore a block within thousands of it's life, then "check" the walls before the final hone with a small ball-pean, listening for thin spots. As far as I know, any good 283 block can go to 4", making a 301, the screamingist little s.o.b. ever!!!!!!!! Of co****, you can achieve the same ends with a 327 block and a 283/265 crank. Decide the fuel you will be able to run and build in as much compression as possible. Also, solid lifters are the way to go. Rods; later 283 and I think all 327 rods are desireable, spotted by the eyebrows above the upper rod bearing bore. As long as the cam is a flat tappet there is no fear of these rods in the 3" stroke motors. The old Jahns pistons were cast and lived well, but I'm sure everyone will agree that forged is the way to go. Camel humps are fine, get some with small valves so that when you put in larger valves they will sit back up on top, promoting good low lift flow.
I've got the heads you need: the 283 hp 283 heads from a fuel injection 57 or duel quad corvette...thier pretty rare and in good shape
I ran a standard bore (actually a 265 punched to 283) with 12.5:1 TRW's and 2.02 heads, no problems! Even spun it tight for many years.
The camel humps came out in '62? what era you building for? Of co**** if you are replicating something that ran in Super Stock you would need the heads that whiplash is talking about.
..and gas and oil if I could ...the car ran I/Stock and H/Stock from '62-'69, I just figured the fuelie heads were basically what everybody was running then. So I could do a early 283 block and steel crank, steel rods, high compression pistons, hogged out 1.94 heads, Duntov solid lifter cam, Stahl headers, and dual quads... Lets talk a little more about what type of pistons and compression to run... Any ideas on what kind of power this will be making? Just out of curiosity. Originally the car ran consistant mid-13's and it's best time was 12.84 running the injected mill. Thanks alot -Dean
You realize that you will drop the compression to somewhere around 8:1 when you use the larger 64cc heads? I have a 265 with .350" domes and the block was zero decked and the most I could get was 9.8:1 with a .016 shim head gasket.
I've been told that the factory fuelie set up flowed about the same as a 780 Holley on a high rise. Running a 301 it's easier to get the compression up where you want it. I had one in the 70's with TRW's that had a bit of a clearance spot for the plug, that's how tall the dome was, I'll go out to the shop and measure it later. These pistons were the same ones being used in TransAm racing till the changed the rules allowing 350's to run(1970?), definetly needed 104 octane! But it ran cleannnnnnnnnnnnn.
For rods I'm using **** I-beams which I got on ebay brand new in the factory wrappers for about $220. That's cheaper than what the 327 rods will cost and the price to clean them up. And to top it off, the **** rods are stronger and come with ARP bolts.
Find a 62 327 ... use a 61 or 62 283 crankshaft and then you have a in effect, a overbored 283 ... making 301 inches. With the 4 inch bore of the 62 block ... the 2.02 heads bolt right on and the intake valves will clear the block. If you bore the 62 block .030 then it will be 306 or so but still wind up high and scream like a little 283 ... .
If you want to be period correct you will need the Power-Pac heads. You could also run a single quad 220 horse 283 pretty cheap and upgrade to the dual quads when you find them. Look for a 64-66 4bbl 283 and you'll have a good start. Are you running a three speed or a four speed? And if you want the solid cam it was the 097 Duntov. Neat project. Keep us posted.
What period are you going for and how firm you want to stay on that is the first decision. You have three choices for heads, 1 early power pac with staggered valve cover bolts, late power pac with straight holes (easy to find) or double humps. The double hump heads will drop compression unless you run domes. I have worked several sets of power pac heads for 1.88 305 valves and pocket and gasket match ported them and they really worked good. You will want domes no matter what you do. Small cubes need compression to make torque. The 30-30 cam is a good high rpm cam in the 283. Low lift and lots of duration, could add 1.6 rockers sometime to play. You will want screw in studs and guide plates. One more thought, 461 camel backs angle milled 1/16 are about 57-59cc. Stock they beat the hell out of the power pacs... Jeff
nice, thanks alot guys...as for era we're restoring the car to around 1968/69, but the mill should be a little earlier since most was retained from when it first started racing in '62. Maybe I would be better off with power pack heads... could I run a hopped up power pack with dome pistons? Lets say the best combo for 1964/65 era... thanks alot guys -Dean
Sorta a hijack- Would most of this hold true for a 307 also? If I remember right, they are the same bore, but have a longer stroke. Would anything be different? Jay
The 307 came out in 1968 after the 283 was discontinued. It was a large journal block like a 350. Far as I know they never came with steel cranks. The heads all had accesory holes and they were junk as far as performance goes. Dean could put a 327 crank in a 283 block and do a 307. Then again he could use a 327 block and crank and nobody would really know. Sounds like a blast from the past for him though, or maybe a blast down memory lane? Jeff
OK; went to the shop and made some measurements of my 301 pistons, just to give you an idea of the wide scope of designs out there; 1) what I think to be factory Z28;.390" dome, laid back on a lathe. 2) TRW 3927172 full width dome, top milled; .285" dome. 3) TRW L2210A full width and height dome; .565" dome. Each of these have pop ups, and are larger in ascending order. #3 is like the ones I ran in the early 60's that had a "full dome" and delivered 12.5:1 compression with 64CC factory heads, 67CC's were a bit lower. As a side note, the #1's were responcible for 11.25:1 in a factory 302!!!!
I have a set of power pac heads on my 355.I put 2.02 valves in them.They work great.I run a 575 solid lift cam.Tunnel ram with 2 450's.11:1 trw's.It looks like a 283.And boy does it have compression.
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