Technical SBC harmonic bal.

I started putting the H.B. on and iam getting 140lbs on the wrench and the engine is turning over. I dont want to air wrench the thing and strip it out. Any thoughts. Also is there suppose to be a slinger washer behind the timing cover. I dont have one.

 

If you have an Autozone near you they have a tool rental programhttps://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-harmonic-balancer-installer/p/oemtools-crankshaft-damper-harmonic-balancer-installer/391373_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:816645350&gclid=CjwKCAiAp7GcBhA0EiwA9U0mtphjdAGxCGU6S_A24U6AogqI_cCHaC3HWPcFt8a8C0VkUDcs1RswhxoCNnoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Info on the slingerhttps://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/timing-chain-oil-slinger-sbc.959754/

 

You need to use the installation tool.

 

yup, you need to use the installer tool. Or a big hammer and a 2x4, which is how they were installed for the first ten(ish) years before Chevy started drilling the hole in the crank.

No slinger on Chevy V8s.

 

I can see why you need tool to remove it but to install it, its called the crank bolt right. If all balancers are the same which I was told, then there should be a measurement from the front of the crank to the front of the balancer. When I ran it up with an air tool the seal wear mark aligned with the timing cover seal (see pic) but it still looks like it is sticking out. What is the sure way to see if its on correctly.

 

Remove it, be sure the key isn't ******ed and jammed, then re install it with the correct tool as advised above.

 

I've got a small hot plate made to keep things warm such as coffee. I set the balancer shaft on it and let it set for maybe 30 minutes. It gets warm enough that it is uncomfortable to handle without gloves. The balancer always installs much easier using this method whether you use the installation tool or not.

 

Wrong. The bolt is not strong enough to pull the damper on all the way. You'll strip threads, break things, etc. The tool has much larger threads for the forcing nut, than the threads on the damper retaining bolt.

If you don't want to buy the right tool, use a hammer and block of wood, at least that way you won't screw up the crankshaft!

 

I had a machine shop not get the damper all the way on a 454 once. Eventually caused huge problems.

As already mentioned: Pull the damper back off. Check the key and the crank snout to make sure you haven't already ******ed them up. Get the correct tool. Warm up the damper if you can. Install with tool. It's all the way on when it seats against the lower timing gear. You'll be able to feel that using the tool.

Or be the guy who whammies out the thrust bearing beating the damper on with a hammer. (Wedge a wood block between the crank flange and motor stand if you insist on using a hammer).

 

I like using the stud style and keep one for it. I found a ball bearing I put over the 1/4” thick washer that goes on first and a smaller hardened washer that sits on the inner race before the nut that pulls it all on. I lube it well.

 

I’m surprised the bolt didn’t wring off. It’s only torqued to about 65 lb/ft.

 

I took some measurements, the wear ring on the balancer is at 5/8". I could fart on the balancer and it would go on that far. From the tip of the crank to where it hits the chain its 1.31 but the balancer shank is no where near that long. Tool or no tool I need to know if the balancer is installed correctly.

 

I guess a poor mans way to check it is put the pulley on the balancer and see if it aligns with the waterpump pulley.

 

You might want to get a new balancer, that one looks like it's about to come apart.

 

The crank does not go all the way to the outer end of the damper, there's a big gap inside there.

When you use the hammer installation technique, you can tell when it's seated, the sound changes.

And it won't hurt the thrust surface of the main bearing. There's a lot of surface area, it's in compression, etc. Chevy had us using a hammer to install dampers on their engines for a long time, before they ever started drilling bolt holes in crankshafts.

 

If that HB is missing pieces of the rubber as it appears in the picture, best get a new one or you could be setting yourself up for a really bad day down the road

 

From the picture posted, the balancer looks to be junk.

 

squirrel, you are right about the big gap. I did the math and came up with 1.5" from the face of the balancer to the top of the crank. Seems like a lot but the balancer is 2.3 thick at the shaft. Yeh the balancer is not the best but if its matched to the crank thats problematic.. If not matched I may get a newer one.

 

You are getting great advice but “appear” to be not heeding it.
Your balancer is junk, there is no “matched to the crank” balancer, at least not in this case. Buy a new balancer, and rent, buy or borrow a balancer tool, and this will be a job that takes a few minutes. Not bashing you, just trying to help you get past the process you are using.

 

Autozone rentals don’t cost anything if you return the tool in working order. You pay a deposit about equal to the tool cost, return it within 30/60 days( check with them) and get your deposit back. The idea behind it (why they give a basic free rental) is you’ll buy the part from them. But they’ll rent it if you don’t.

 

New dampers may or may not have the bore sized correctly...I believe a .001-.0015 interference fit is correct?. I find submerging a new damper in boiling water for 15 minutes, then quickly installing it helps a bit

 

The correct tool is a balancer installer. Here's what mine looks like. It also is a puller. The kits can be bought from Summit, Jegs, Speedway, and probably a bazillion sites on the internet.

Squirrel is right, before drilled cranks, a big hammer and a block of wood did it. But they had some failures where the inertia ring separated from the hub, hence the drilled crank and an installation tool.

And yes it needs to seat against the crank gear, otherwise it's spacing will be off. Oh and it may not absorb the harmonics as well and start to fret on the end of the crank. And you really don't want to have the inertia ring separated from hub. Especially at high rpm. Not pretty! And expensive usually...

 

Also helps with less returns that have bash, burn, clawed and blood marks.

 

What balancer?

 

Damper!

 

I must confess, somedays it pains me to think I'll go to my grave with some off the stuff I know. For instance...a speedy sleeve for that worn snout.
EA Product brochure basic template CS2 v04 2007-02-20 (skf.com)
And how that tool could easily be made in a home garage. Couple of bolts, some welding and grinding.

And while that balancer/dampener seems to have seen better days, if it wasn't beaten to a point of that rubber splitting, the ring failing, if it came off it will go on. I'd bet it's a keyway alignment issue.

 

I am going to get the tool for sure BUT....does anyone have a SBC on the stand where they can check the gap from the crank to the end of the HB. I dont think there is anyway mine will "bottom out" based on where the seal wear mark was.

 

From the machined part of the front of a block like the two holes on either side of the balancer to the front of the balancer is 3 inches

 

Use the installation tool. I really wish I did, I just pulled the threads out of my crank using the bolt. I feel pretty stupid, I could have rented one for free from auto zone. Now I get to drill it out and tap. This is a balanced crank too, I really goofed.
USE THE TOOL!!!!!!

 

Junk balancer....Summit sells OEs pretty cheap.