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Hot Rods SBC Harmonic Balancer and Timing Chain Cover

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Pollywog, Jul 23, 2025 at 4:50 PM.

  1. Pollywog
    Joined: Sep 29, 2012
    Posts: 9

    Pollywog
    Member
    from Portland

    Two quick question...
    Replacing the timing chain cover on a Chevy 265 I just bought. When removing the harmonic balancer I hear a pop from the back of the motor....Was I just hearing some sorta pressure release, or am I in trouble?

    Im also having trouble getting the timing chain cover off. All the screws are out and nothing else seems to be holding it on. Im nervous to just use brute strength and ignorance to pull it off. Any clue?

    Thanks for your help and knowledge! I really appreciate the people on this board.
     
    tractorguy likes this.
  2. Pollywog
    Joined: Sep 29, 2012
    Posts: 9

    Pollywog
    Member
    from Portland

    Timing chain cover is off. It just needed a little persuading
     
  3. TexasHardcore
    Joined: May 30, 2003
    Posts: 5,544

    TexasHardcore
    Member
    from Austin-ish

    check crankshaft end play (thrust). should be within .003"-.009".
     
    tractorguy, Pollywog and mad mikey like this.
  4. Wanderlust
    Joined: Oct 27, 2019
    Posts: 1,007

    Wanderlust

    Can’t help you with the pop but loosen the oil pan bolts about half way out the pry the front of the pa down then you should be able to remove the timing chain cover.

    Ok too slow typing, well it will go better assembling to have the pan down a bit, get the timing cover on then tighten up the pan
     
  5. You better take the oil pan off, remove timing cover, reseal all on assembly.
     
  6. Pollywog
    Joined: Sep 29, 2012
    Posts: 9

    Pollywog
    Member
    from Portland


    Watched a video on YouTube on how to do this. Thank you
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2025 at 5:29 PM
  7. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,438

    finn
    Member

    Drop the oil pan, force the crankshaft all the way back, then use a feeler gauge to measure clearance between the thrust bearing and the shaft. Force the crankshaft forward and measure again. The numbers should match. A better way is to buy an inexpensive dial indicator and stand and move the crank back, zero the dial, then move it forward.

    Either method works, but the dial indicator is probably more accurate. It takes some practice to get repeatable readings.

    I think HF has indicators and stands good enough for this. You’re not making a spaceship, so uber expensive tools aren’t a must. You’ll need the tools if you pursue the hobby.
     
    Tickety Boo, ekimneirbo and Pollywog like this.
  8. Pollywog
    Joined: Sep 29, 2012
    Posts: 9

    Pollywog
    Member
    from Portland

    I see what you're saying about the oil pan. There a little lip holding the cover.

    Everything seems to check out, crankshaft wise. The motor is out of the car and on a stand so it was real easy to check.
    I'm hoping the pop sound was just the sound of pressure releasing.
     
  9. 1934coupe
    Joined: Feb 22, 2007
    Posts: 5,210

    1934coupe
    Member

    What Mad Mikey said.

    Pat
     
  10. It it’s out, I’d do the pan as well
     
    deathrowdave likes this.
  11. Did it have an oil slinger? IMG_7530.jpeg
     
    Johnny Gee likes this.
  12. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,396

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It's a 265 and it had a harmonic damper?

    Maybe it's the head injury talking but I thought the SBC had an undrilled crank and just a pulley pressed on, continuing until after the 283 was introduced.
     
  13. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,661

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    If you get it back together without replacing the oil pan gasket you're going to end up with a oil leak until you replace the pan gasket also! Don't cut corners on this part of the job or you'll regret it later.
     
    ekimneirbo likes this.
  14. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,661

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    You're half right. The 265 didn't have a bolt, but it did have a harmonic balancer.
     
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  15. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 6,280

    Fordors
    Member

    I have to agree with @gimpyshotrods , the 265 had no harmonic damper, only a hub to bolt the lower pulley to. The hub also provided a surface for the front crank seal.
     
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  16. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 5,140

    ekimneirbo
    Member
    from Brooks Ky

    Yes they have some that work fine. Also need a "magnetic base" to hold the indicator. And Yes again that its a good addition to a tool box.:)

    I'd also go on Amazon and search for a book on "Rebuilding the Smallblock Chevy". They also have used ones for about $25 but the new ones are slightly higher. This is a good place to learn a lot about your engine. Look at the various ones available and see which one suits your engine the best.
     
    Algoma56 likes this.
  17. Been a while; but on the 265 engines I had, the pulley was riveted onto the lower hub and had 2 threaded holes for a puller instead of 3 like the later hubs. I remember them being a harmonic damper; but like I said, it has been a while.

    The only plain hubs that I came across were on 283 truck motors and they had 3 holes and bolt on pulleys.
     
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  18. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,396

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thank you gentlemen.

    Getting bonked on the head is a frightful experience.
     

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