Technical SBC in Model A with Hurst Front Mount and 39 Ford 3 Speed?

I could but I love the look of the banjo on a highboy.

Yes, had one delivered but they sent a 57 Chevy instead of the 32 Ford I ordered. But from my last mockup with the flathead radiator I had I know it needs to be moved back. It also needs to move back for the pedals due to the recessed firewall.

 

I mocked up an 1.5" block of wood on top of mine and it leveled the carbs perfect. Ordered some that look similar to those from Speedway that are 1.5". Gonna try to use the Speedway ones if I can.

 

What I was kinda getting at was to keep stuff as natural as possible and not run the *****in' type firewall. The aftermarket firewall these days in a Model "A" is kind of considered a step backwards if you have a modifiable stocker around, especially if you later wish to do a flathead.

 

Ok I didn't pick up on that, lol. I'm not a fan of that firewall either but really hate to butcher a primo late 31 firewall. I may pickup a 30/31 and butcher it up later.

 

Exactly. Now keep in mind, these are just my opinions. I needed a recess in my firewall. I heard about the "wheelbarrow" method, the "make a big square recess" (like a *****en firewall). There was also the "flip the firewall around" thing, which I didn't care for. The firewall on a 30-31 is supposed to have that radius all the way around past the edge of the cowl. If it doesn't, it just looks wrong. You also lose a couple inches of toe board flipping it. Not a big deal in a coupe or roadster but 2-3-4 inches inside an A pickup is huge.

So, I set out to make a recess that would give me the room I needed but be as least disruptive as possible. I like the beads on the stock firewall and wanted to keep them. I didn't want to lose any toeboard area either. I figured out where I was going to cut the firewall and did it. Once I had that I sat down with very large piece of poster board and traced the opening I cut in the firewall. From there I drew 4" flanges off each edge. I cut it out and bent it on the lines and taped it together. I taped it to the firewall and figured out the trans hump radius and cut it out. Then figured out how to make it all end up back at the original toe board flange. Test fit it in the truck, liked it, transferred my pattern to a piece of flat sheet metal and cut it out. Bent it on the lines and only had five 4" seams to weld up. I think it turned out pretty cool.

 

Better deal. Keep stuff as far forward as you can so you can preserve as much foot room as you can, too. In an "A" roadster, even the larger '30-'31s you will need every inch you can find. That's why I was encouraging having a radiator at hand before you finalize all this. Set it in place, dial your engine and trans unit so you have about 3/4"-1" of fan clearance, then tack everything in place and figure out the firewall, pedals and torque tube length. Be sure that the rear wheels end up in the center of the wheel wells, too. Lots o' nit-fickiling, but doing it right is really worth the extra effort not only in personal satisfaction, but in re-sale dollars later on too.

 

I moved my front crossmember forward one rivet hole, about and inch but didn't want to go any farther than that. I really don't like when the front ends get stretched out or the distance between the grille shell and the body is increased by moving the body back. The proportions start to look weird to me. But you are right, the more parts you have mocked up the better it's going to turn out.

 

Thanks that is good advice. At F6 I really like your firewall and will try to copy that. Thanks for the photos.

 

Anytime. My way isn't the only way of course. You may find something else you personally like better. This just worked out pretty good for me.

 

This may seem like a great idea now, but if you ever decide to run fenders and a hood...

My coupester was originally built as a highboy and it was "fudged" an inch or so to give more engine room. A later owner decided to put fenders on it but nothing fits forward of the firewall, giving the car a really sloppy look.

I could have a custom hood made, but the proportions would still be wrong. To fix it right I'm going to have to tear it completely apart and move the crossmember back where it belongs. A little foresight on the part of the original builder would have prevented this.

 

I won't ever run fenders but that's a real good point to consider.

 

Got everything moved back as far as I think it needs to be. Next question what is the optimal fan to radiator distance? Also can I paint the aluminum radiator black? It has some stupid street rod logo painted on it.

 

as to painting the radiator black. suggestion: have it "heat dissipation coated" in black. I'm gonna do that with my 28's radiator and the Zips water pump riser. The coating is supposed to be good for a 20%!!! heat dissipation. and i'm thinking anything is good! and to the firewall, *****en firewalls belong on a street rod, hot rods got modded stock firewalls, i didn't want my car to look like a chineze stamped, common as pickles street rod. I messed up my car MY way !!! LOL.

 

Nobody likes that firewall. Gets in the way of the pedals too. Its going but I'm working up the nerve to carve up the primo late 31 sitting against the wall there.