I got a good deal on a set of sbc rams horn manifolds for a 350, turns out from the casting (3855163) research I have done online that they are for a 327. Some castings indicate the are used on more than one size of sbc. I don't seem to see that for this number. Port and studs all seem to line up, so far the only thing I see is that the dip stick may be an issue. Any body have any thoughts on compatibility? Thanks.
They will work just fine. One thing to check is if one has the long studs like this one it will not have the bevel for the gasket. The heat riser shown here has the bevel for the gasket. It uses a flat gasket between the manifold and the heat riser. If you don't want to mess with a heat riser just get 2 manifolds with the bevel for the gasket. They work on either side of the engine.
Compatibility between a 327 and a 350? No problem...same manifold will work on either. That's the driver side manifold for a mid 60s Chevy full size car, right?
There is a passengwer side and a driver's side. The driver's side has a bracket on the front for alt/gen bracket. All of them were for a drivers side dipstick and had a little divot where the dipstick tube came up on the rear of the drivers side. if you have a later block with a pass dipstick you will need to get a flexible dipstick like a Locar or the like. They use thses on early small blocks like in 265,283,327 and I believe early 350 and 302.
Yes the pass. side has the longer studs and a heat riser(?) (Not really sure what that does, just learning some of this stuff, maybe someone could clue me in.) The studs were shot, so will be replacing them. I guess my next question would be can I grind a gasket bevel and put in shorter studs and eliminate the riser. The riser seems to be ok after a little work to loosen it up. Thanks for all the input.
The heat riser is used to block the pass side exhaust, so when the engine is cold the exhaust is forced to go thru the heat crossover passage in the intake manifold. If you drive when it's cold out, you might want to leave it there, it makes the engine run better. But the little bit of extra heat in the intake manifold is not the best thing for drag racing if you're trying to set a record...which you probably are never going to attempt to do.... When you connect the exhaust pipes, if you use the composition "donut" gaskets, you want to make sure to put a short sleeve of exhaust pipe inside the donut so it won't collapse as you tighten the nuts. This is a common mistake, resulting in perpetual exhaust leaks.
Long studs on one side are for a solid spacer used on 60's corvettes. I used these on a 350 Chevy for a long time. Worked great. You can remove te studs and just use 3/4" or 1" bolts. They have HO style 2-1-2" collectors and then some smaller ones. They're nice for mounting an alternator. Great manifolds. Used 2-1/2" header collectors that I welded to the exhaust pipes after I fitted them on the manifolds. Use copper gaskets and didn't leak. They leaked before I welded them.
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