At 60 mph, I doubt it is a transmission problem. The transmission should basically be locked in direct drive at that point. If the torque converter is bad, the engine would rev up but the vehicle speed wouldn't increase. Check the vacuum while driving.
This is why I'm pushing the cracked fuel line. OK so you replace all rubber hose's. I chased the same issue in my younger years for 6 years. Nothing but money spend in wrong places. Until one day nothing!, as in the car wouldn't run no more. Except this time no fuel at all to the carb. This forced me to check every thing now fuel related. It's turns out the fuel line had a fracture in it that just grew grew as my issue got worse and worse. Never seen a drop of fuel ever on the ground either. The crack turns out was at a high point over the rear axle. The fuel would just run back into the tank because the fuel line was vented.
When you come to grade and it feels like a loss of power, how does that loss of power manifest itself Does it pop, spit and fart? (likely ignition) Or does it just run out / fall on its face, then come back when you lift? (likely lack of fuel supply) Have you checked the fuel pump for volume as well as pressure. If its a flat spot and the engine comes back with your foot down its likely carb or timing. If its a choke look for black smoke.
Something thrown out by a wise ass who doesn't know a fricking thing about troubleshooting but likes to mess with guys who don't know much more than he does.
well there is no smoke, popping or anything unusual as far as engine noise. I can only describe it as loss of power at hillside. there is a strong hesitation. I have put 3 new mech pumps on it. no change. It deserved a new distributor, no change. It could be staving for fuel like you say. All metal & rubber lines were new as the tank. I am the only one to drive this thing and the first 12k were great. I built everything but had shops do engine & trans. It just may be a vacuum or fuel line leak. I better call the junk yard and cancel the tow! thanks everyone
a new one came with distributor, thought of that. along with ign module. replaces wires & plugs also.
To give sideswipe some credit... A faulty modulator valve can do some strange things. That is the link between engine vacuum and transmission operation. My G Grandfather had a Caprice that would suck up transmission fluid through the modulator. Been a long long time... I was just a kid. It took a long time to find that one. If the valve is faulty or the vacuum lines danaged or hooked up wrong it can cause problems. It's worth investigating along with the basic trouble shooting. My personal experience...... A fresh engine that falls on it's face pulling a hill..... Valves too tight. No luck with the basics.... I'd check that lash.
Johnny, Is the engine screaming, rev-ing to the moon? Won't downshift to 2nd? If you know this, please tell us how you found this out. LOL
I was picking on the fact was the trans fluid checked as step one before blaming the trans all together. Make sense now?
Post one, he said he had fluid in it. I assume that means full. I know...big assumption. Anyway, I decided we don't need the crystal ball on this one. Let's use a different approach.
OK here are the exact words. "It has fluid in it but I think this is the problem. Any ideas for quick checks or tips?" Here's a shot in the dark! Add a quart of fluid and see what happens.
So, before it was when warm, and when >60mph. Now it's at hillside. If you want people to help you with the problem, you really need to describe what the problem is. Are you sure now that this is what's wrong? The car loses power when going uphill? Does it do it all the time, or only when warm and when over 60mph?
hey- sus a lot of suggestions but the first thing to check is the centrifugal advance weight. put a timing light on it and see if timing advances as engine rpm increases. then a leakdown. a vacuum leak as in trans modulater will only show as a miss or smoke out of exhaust when at an idle cause you have 16 in. vacuum then
Sideswipe.... Basic specs on the vehicle would help. We know 350 CID with T350 transmission. We know the engine has HEI and about 13k.... What's it in? What's the tire size? What's the gear ratio? What's the overall condition of the vehicle? What exhaust? Does it have a high stall converter? Does it have a performance camshaft? What carburetor? What is the CFM of the carburetor if so equipped?
Just throwing it out there because it’s happened to me. Could rubber line be collapsing on its self when under higher suction? When motor is under higher loads. Just a thought Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Rather than throw parts at it there are so many free tests assuming you have basic equipment, like as been suggested and I'll add a few: timing light...correct initial, full advance. Vacuum gauge @ idle, wot. Fuel pressure and volume going into carb. Simple things...maybe you replaced a fuel filter, but did you replace one at inlet (Quadrajet)? Choke should be wide open when warm (temporarily wire it open). When you check volume, clear mason jar...look at fuel for water, etc. A bad modulator it would smoke. Exhaust open? tailpipe mashed (look for a potato!). Check voltage to distributor (low voltage =weak spark). Check for vacuum leaks, spray carb cleaner, even WD-40, propane around carb, intake, etc. Headers? Header gasket leak you should be able to feel exhaust blowing out. Last be sure tank is vented. Test drive cap off if possible (don't want fuel spill). Test drive air cleaner off. In top gear at, say, 45 does it downshift when you stomp it? Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
I do this weird shit 2x before breakfast everyday. Start at the basics, get a good foundation and come up from there. Run a compression test, if it passes Inspect the plugs out while out too. Run a vacuume test, 37.5 seconds to see if the exhaust is plugged and a bunch of other shit Run a fuel pressure test, drive it and watch the fuel pressure. If it passes all the stuff, then your down to simple tune up stuff of crap in the carb. Timing, dwell, coil getting hot, dumb stuff. You could begin with the dumb stuff and maybe get lucky. Maybe even get it finished and fixed by tomorrow afternoon. Don't forget I'd get 2 fixed before breakfast.
Ohhh... an eBay special? I have one of those on my SBC. Came with HEI, cap, coil and wires for $125 shipped...
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