Yeah I had to look it up. Not really any BS about it. I'll take you on a virtual run thru of the climb. 3 times a week there's some kind of drivability issue that comes in here. It's like tying shoes. Very different for a guy who solves one issue a year. Every once in a while there's one that keeps you on your toes. I'll admit that doing this stuff every day makes it easier and faster and there's not much substitution for experience. Bad experiences make good teachers and I've been around the block the wrong way more than once to know this is the very best way. Depends on the history, read above here and you have the history on the SBC runs like crap. Right Or wrong that's what was given. No crystal balls or mind reading. If it's incorrect descriptions - so be it. Every drivability issue gets a compression test- no exceptions. It's too easy not to do and they tell you A LOT and it helps me in future issues and keeping tabs. The SBC is known for a few issues, flat cams being one of them. Also "rebuilds" have been known to be rattle can rebuild, bailing wire overhauls, and a bunch of shit, and brand new crate engines messed up. From that compression test it's pass or fail. If it's a fail, we are done or need to make room for a big internal job. No waisted time or money on a seriously ill engine. Plugs are out sooooo read them, gives you more info moving forward. Pop the distributor cap and look for obvious problems, cracks, tracks, arcs, Drop in the piston stop and turn the crank with a bar. Does the bar tension feel normal, tight or loose, pay attention because you're feeling crank bearing resistance, the compression test verified the bores are good. Make the mark, turn it back make the mark now TDC is verified- we can trust the marks and the timing light. Did you watch the rotor move with the crack? We just checked the timing chain for excessive slop too. Are new plugs in reason, put them in. At this point I know the engine is sound and that its got fresh plugs or good inspected plugs . So go where the plugs tell you and look for obvious problems. At this point how much time do you think has passed? 30 mins maybe an hour if we had to drink coffee and pee twice. does it take that long to climb the bandini mountain?? Vacuume guage takes a few seconds to hook up, maybe 5 mins if you really need to manipulate fitting's and Teflon tape them and gain a port. I have a drawer with plastic Tee fittings and short hoses. The vacuum guage tells you a lot too. Pass/fail look for the problems. Long hose and drape it under the wiper ready for a test drive. Fuel pressure guage does take 5-10 mins sometimes on a hard line, most have rubber someplace and it's quicker then. EVERY DRIVABILITY ISSUES needs fuel pressure test. It's imperative that fuel pressure is in spec and remains there while driving. Long hose and drape that under the wiper ready for a test drive. This 6 mins can save you 6 years of frustration. If fuel pressure is dropping it might take a few more to figure it out. With a mechanical pump, the back side is on suction with low pressure inside and 14.7 psi outside. The lines can and do suck air without ever leaking a drop. Check the timing for a reference, initial total and note the curve. Shut the lights off and watch it run in the darkest you can get. See any sparks jumping? vacuume ok or not? Fuel pressure in specs or not. If you see sparks, or off specs find out why. Off you go on the test drive assuming there were no fails or that obvious stuff has been corrected. Might be 1 Hr in at this point or several depending on the obvious repairs. how tall is Bandini? Interpreting the gauges comes with experience, or at least watching 5 hrs of youtube. At this point is when you'll shake out the hidden issues if there are any. The engine is going to run fine or not. This history denotes "Operating temp" and "60 mph." Electric chokes work completely "off of time to to heat the spring" nothing at all to do with operating temps. If the choke is wrong it won't run right. It also will be hard to start hot. Especially when the throttle is opened at 60 mph. Did the plugs look sooty? Ding a clue. Can you tell if the ignition is breaking up or if it's starving for fuel? Watch the fuel pressure guage it will tell you if it's fuel related. Maybe it's both ignition and fuel all kinds of wrong.
Lack of power above 60 mph....., Really noticible lack of power pulling a hill... Problem presents after car is warmed up or driven a while. Mmmmmmnnnnn. Check the brakes for excessive heat. Worn backing plate can catch a new shoe in the groove. A faulty master cylinder vent can gradually pressirize the system. Rubber lines at the end of thier service life can act as a one way valve..... holding pressure at the wheels. Simple check..... Drive the car around a bit.... not over Mt Pilot...... just normal driving. Feel the wheels for excessive heat.
If you can't read it from soup maybe it will help some future readers. This stuff is SO simple if you just break it down. Captain Obvious - the first thing (problem) anyone ever noticed is that something isn't doing what it's supposed (not the desired out put). General Obvious - The very first step to correcting that problem of getting the non desired out put is to verify that the object does have the proper input. Commander Obvious- when a new problem shows up, go back to the last thing you fixed or the last area you were moving stuff around.
I think you will like this one.... My grandfather ran a garage in the late 50s. This lady brings in a 56 Victoria running like hell. It had a few fouled plugs.... New plugs and tune up the car ran like a top and she was good to go. A week later the lady is back with the Ford running as poorly as before. He cleaned the plugs goes over everything, gave it a test drive and the car ran like a top. The next week the lady is back and rather upset. Same problem. He cleaned the plugs again but this time he asked if he could ride passenger as she test drove the car. Sure she said. She got in cranked the car. Before she put it in gear she pulled the choke handle and hung her purse from it. My grandfather said....That ain't no purse holder.
Seeing one of the last "no power' guys didn't have full throttle, therefore not much or any secondaries... Again , I ask what kind of carburetor. (page three)
"everything was built at a reputable shop" .... If ya can't (don't know how) to build it the first place, then take it back to whoever built it......too many folks have already wasted too much time trying to help you, given your lack of ability to furnish an accurate "description" of the problem (which still is SERIOUSLY LACKING). It's still not clear ... may as well all ignore this thread. I've already wasted toooo much time just reading the thread.. no offense.. just find another way to solve your performance problems.
Don't remember, it was some time ago. I do remember pulling the valve cover off and seeing 3 rocker arm not moving at all, and dad punching my arm saying" your in for a long weekend"
Everything Vicky said . K -eep I-t S-imple S-stupid Vacuum gauge test Fuel pressure and volume Compression test Check your wiring and battery / charging system Vacuum leaks. Timing / base and advance Diagnostics are simple if you approach them with a plan. Same as getting dressed do you put your underware on last? Comb your hair then take a shower? On a carbureted engine 2 hours spent checking things in order, not getting ahead of yourself and checking things off the list will get the job done fast and with little heart ache. Or and not to sound like an ass, take it to the reputable shop and have them diagnose it, and hour or 2 of labour is small potatoes compared to a “ parts cannon” way of diagnostics.
Maybe this has been asked before but I couldn't find it, do you have an electric fuel pump or mechanical? The reason I ask is that I have had the same issue you are describing in the past and after much trial and tribulation, my fuel pump was unable to maintain pressure in the heat of the day and after the engine heated up. I added a fuel pressure gauge (oil filled of course) and monitored my fuel pressure under load at operating temperature. I believe that I was experiencing vapor lock. Regardless, I went back to a new mechanical pump and it solved my issues. I hope you work it out and better for you to go through the steps than to rely on a mechanic Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
How do the spark plugs look? My SBC is running a bit off too an I'm changing the plugs once we get a break in the heat. Just too hot to dig into it right now.
What color is it. The some colors are faster than others. This is a bonehead stupid question but why do you think that he transmission is making it run crappy?
It may sound like we are busting balls, we are. But in a good helpful way. The vague description, is it tranny? Engine? That tuna sandwich I ate last night? Gives everyone here just enough information to possibly lead you down the road chasing gremlins that are not there. It’s always easiest to diagnose something when you are standing in front of it. Not from a screen a 100, 1000, 100000 miles away. Take a breath, re-asses and get back to us with what you have done and your findings as you go. Don’t pull everything apart all at once. One thing at a time. Slow a steady wind the race
First thing in all the Tune-Up manuals going back a hundred years, page 1 paragraph 1 is the cylinder compression test. Nobody hardly does this, but as already mentioned it is a methodical, straightforward process of elimination that ultimately saves time. Another wise move that can save a lot of aggravation is to check or verify the true TDC against the damper/balancer with a piston stop. Everything that follows with ignition timing is based on TDC, and even new balancers can be defective. A mechanic's vacuum gauge, tach, simple test light and voltmeter are required for the basic diagnostics.
Of course it's good info, Now, inferring my post to be like bandini mountain or a pile of maure is not very nice.
Lot's of good information being posted, especially the posts (31Vicky) emphasizing the basics. But the most basic troubleshooting step of all is to verify the complaint. There are suggestions about fuel pump restrictions, ignition system troubles, plugged exhaust, etc, all without any indication of what the problem may be. All requests to the OP to clarify it are ignored. I think this all may just be a prank.
How can anyone verify a complaint via internet. Half the time we can't even get the difference between a "no start" And "no crank" explained correctly. It is what it is and it's what they say it is as far as complaints go. There isn't one syllable of this problem solving that isn't already written down in a book for at least 30 years, some of it 50 yrs, some of it 100s of years. Anyone who seeks it can have full access to it. There is no award or merit or ceremony to receive the info.
you guys are great! I spoke with a couple friends and as someone mentioned, or several of you. i'll go through the fuel system again. It's all 90's era Bob Drake stuff including the tank and an edelbrock 1406 carb with elec choke. As the temp rises to normal it struck me that is where the roads become hilly. It struggles at this setup the most. this car has been on the road for about 6 years. once the mystery is solved I will post the results for someone else to learn from. thanks to all for the input and advice.
Ohhhh now you tell us you have an Edelbrock on it! Just kidding although I like Holleys. Look for a fuel line too close to a heat source. Do you have a carb insulator on it? That helps keep the fuel from doing funky things in the heat.
Exactly my point. At the least the person seeking help can explain what the hell is actually going on. Even if they can't tell whether the problem is with the engine or the trans, at least they can describe what is happening, and that will maybe allow someone else to isolate the issue to one or the other. IN this case, for whatever reason, the OP didn't want to do that. Several people, including myself, asked him to clarify things, and got no response.
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