So funny I just ran across this on a google search. I too am going through the same exact dilemma with several 3510 starters and my new crate engine 350. I think I am going to try the mini starter, out of curiosity what manufacturer/model did you use?
I think I am going to try this tonight, its only 3 bolts so it can't be all that hard to do. Sure as hell beats pulling apart the transmission.
ok make sure the convertor is not hitting the crank.i had one that would flex the flywheel so bad it break the starters off the block...
I have to say my new engine + new flexplate and new rebuilt starter motors seem to spin the fly wheel real smooth and rotation is nice and even on the flexplate, just NO release once ignition is let off the pinion just seems to get hung up. This is certainly the biggest ***** i've ever dealt with on any motor. You can see why I'm ready to fire it up, but not until I get past this issue.
HI TORQUE MINI RESOLVED MY ISSUE INSTANTLY. Installed without any shims and engaged and spit out without any problems whatsoever. Moderators should sticky this topic for people with future problems. Makes life easy with helpful info.
This is very important, alot of after market starters (mini) come with regular bolts, not the proper OEM STYLE BOLTS!
Does your crate motor use metric or standard bolts? If you are using a starter motor that uses metric bolts or vice versa the bolts shank will be different sizes so no matter much much you tork the bolts down the starter motor will still move up and down causing the grinding noise. Go under your car and have someone turn the key and look at the starter motor and see if it is moving around. Starter motors are sold both in metric and standard sizes but if your using the wrong one with the wrong bolts it will more. Jimbo