has anyone every chunked the rubber gaskets on the end of the block when changing the intake and used a pooky type sealer instead? those things always slip on me and i hate them.
Lots of engine guys substitute a bead of silicone for the end gaskets on alot of intakes. Personally, I like the end gaskets, and just tack 'em to the block with a few dabs of adhesive...they rarely, if ever slip out that way. The key is to avoid cheap gaskets...some include cheap cork end seals, while otheres have rubber ones with tabs that help hold 'em in place. You can go either way...it's mainly a personal preference thing!!
Also if you use the gaskets, make sure you get some RTV in the corners where the head/block and intake meet.
Hawk, Go to a good hardware store and get a tube of clear Dow-Corning RTV, the kind you can put in a calk gun. Wipe the block off with "laquer" thinner and lay down a bead to set the manifold down on, enough to get a "little" squeeze out. After it sets, you can trim off the excess and you'll have a gasket that will never leak! Do not use the cheap blue or red shit they sell at places like Autozone! I've been doing this for many years, most new SBCs have the valve covers put on the same way, from the factory. Shoe
I was advised to actually NOT use the end gaskets... laid a phat bead of hi-temp permatex, let it set up a bit, plunked the manifold on... so far so good
I worked as a line mechanic at GM dealer for a good while. In the early 90s, GM told us to do away with the rubber end gaskets and use silicone instead. They said that they got fewer warranty leaks that way.
I've had good luck with Victor brand gaskets. The end pieces were cork with an adhesive backing on them and they worked real good!!
I don't use end gaskets either, and as others have suggested, I simply fill the area with silicone..however.. There's one final "step" I learned building race engines that few others seem to do. I didn't come up with it, I was taught this by a seasoned pro, and so was he. Once the job is done...everything is together and you're ready to walk away, run a consistent thin bead of silicone along all the sealed surfaces. Hit all of them - all around the intake, timing cover, oil pan, fuel pump- all the sealed external accessories. This is really easy with the caulk gun loaded with clear silicone RTV as mentioned previously, and if the hole you trim off the tip is small, the bead will be thin and neat. I also follow the bead with a small sealant spoon (a small standard screwdriver is a fine substitute) to both fill in any possible void in the sealant and to make the final appearance neat and clean. Do this step before the sealant begins to dry, and wipe the excess off the spoon/screwdriver regularly. Think how a weld fills the gaps between metal, and that's the appearance you're after. Yes, this takes more time. But, here's something to consider: None of my engines leak. Ever. (unless somebody fucks with something I did) ...and I've easily screwed together, updated, and modified over 100 in the last 20 years. Adding a final sealant bead to the circumference of your work is something more people should do, but they just don't. Try it once- it'll become habit. Scotch~!
Scotch...that's an excellent tip. I did that very same "trick" on the little 318 Mopar I built up years ago. Someone told me they were notorious for front cover leaks, so I walked a very thin bead of black silicone around the timing cover and oil pan. Didn't do it on the intake seals, but never had a leak from it! One of my buddies applies a thin coat of silicone sealer around seals (where they meet the block, not the crank) and on the mating surfaces of freeze plugs before installation. All simple and cheap insurance against unwanted fluid leaks! Great tip, Bro!
You can either use the rubber end pieces or not with good results, but if you do use them, never use any kind of silicone. Silicone is a lubricant to rubber. Just use some aviation gasket maker or non-hardening Permatex on the rubber pieces and they won't slip out on ya. If they squeeze out no matter what you do, then your heads have probably been shaved quite a bit and you have no choice but to toss the end pieces and use the silicone bead method.
Long ago we used to take a centerpunch & put dimples on the block, both ends, gave the rubber end pieces something to grip. Gorilla snot (yellow 3M superweatherstrip adhesive) probably worked better for me than anything. Think I am going to go the silicone caulk route next time.
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