I’ve been having issues with what should be a relatively easy engine swap: SBC to a 41 Ford open drive trans in my 40 coupe. I researched this all over here and everywhere before lifting a wrench. Plus, I did this with no problems in an 47, but years ago. Apparently missed something!! https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-updated-2-15-24.1265297/page-8#post-15142054 Here are the particulars, to save going through the whole build thread. >SBC 350 with one piece rear seal. Fresh build. >Vintage CRAGAR trans adapter >New billet flywheel for one piece crank and B&B pressure plate >New $$ B&B pressure plate and disc from Ft. Wayne Clutch. Correct for swap, per them. >New pilot bushing for crank and trans shaft >Trans, throw out bearing, fork, shaft and linkage same as when the flathead was in it. >Checked clutch arm center hole diameter, equal to flathead Long type. Everything went together as well as expected. Trans and adapter all bolted up nicely. I thought that I checked TO bearing contact with clutch arms at that time. Adjusted clutch rod and pedal free play @ 1” The problem is: I can push the pedal from inside all the way to the floor with only light resistance Not the leg resistance that you would expect when the TO bearing hits and compresses the pressure plate springs. Suspected: TO bearing too small diameter, goes inside clutch arms. Pin that locks TO bearing carrier to cross shaft is sheared or missing, allowing shaft to rotate loose. Solutions: Pull carpet, trans cover, inspection plate and see if anything is obvious. GROAN Pull trans out and look for correct TO bearing movement or issues. DOUBLE GROAN!! Throw the 41 trans away and put in a TH350! Sell the SOB as is and give the F**K up! HELP!! This engine swap is physically and mentally wearing my old butt out! I need to be driving it. Any REAL LIFE advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated! KISS theory for me. Thanks! Bill
Never surrender, it's an all out attack! You've got to go through the suck to diagnose this thing, unfortunately. I believe you've got to be close in your reasoning with the TO bearing.
Bill if it was me I would pull back the carpet and get to the inspection plate. It will tell you what’s the issue. I’m sure it’s something dumb and hopefully a easy fix.
Ida been watching it operate through the small inspection hole before the trans cover went on. Do that now.
Yep. Skipped that step when it went together. Transmission stayed in the car, engine went in. I ASSumed, that since it was working fine before……..DOH!!
UPDATE: Finally got to deal with this. Got the carpet and jute pulled back after a struggle (4hrs) getting the glued together layers of carpet, jute and FAT MAT sound deadener separated! Then ran into more problems getting out the toe boards and trans cover!! What were they thinking? Anyway, what I found is, with the pedal on the floor, the TO bearing is still not in contact with the PP fingers. If you can see in the pic, the fingers look like they’re already depressed! is this a condition of a simple pedal adjustment, or the PP installed incorrectly? Disc has the flat side toward the flywheel. Hoping NOT to have to pull trans, but it is what it is! Any experienced suggestions? Advice? Thanks, guys!! TO bearing not touching fingers with pedal depressed to the floor Installed view Out of adjustment on linkage
Can’t tell from your pics but the arms look the same depth without the trans as through the small window. Could you still need to adjust the length of the throwout connecting rod?
Thanks for the quick replies! Yes. New from Speedway. Trans slid into place without resistance. Yes they do, don’t they. Thought there might be some blocks in the PP holding it depressed but did’t see any. No notices for that came with the clutch. Out of threads on the linkage rod. Already adjusted out to end of threads. Added a pic.
What do you mean you’re out of adjustment? Do you need to extend the rod or shorten it? If you need to extend the rod, get one of those threaded couplers and a little all thread, and put the clevis on and see if you can get the pressure plate to release. A trip to the hardware store in a couple of bucks should do that. If that’s the case you can then fix it properly I feel like this is a linkage issue.
Seems like the linkage has been modified from stock. Is there a notch cut out of the frame? And I don’t think it should almost rub the top of the access hole. Get a longer rod?
Thanks! I’m in agreement. @alchemy That clevis is barely missing the edge of the cutout, which hasn’t been altered. I completely removed it earlier to check the eye for wear. Looked perfect after a wire brushing. @Dan Hay Need to extend it. Lengthening the rod is easy. I’ll try that first. Thanks for the interest, guys!
@Budget36 This setup supposedly keeps the early Ford TO bearing and carrier. @el Scotto Agreed! That’s easy enough! I’ll try to get it adjusted to make contact and check for release first. I rechecked and found that I have about 1/4” of threads still. Will see if that’s enough. Then correct the rod. Thanks for the replies!!
In your first picture it appears you are using the early Ford TO bearing and hub. A few guys that bought my T5 kit have insisted on using the Borg & Beck 3 finger pressure plate. The large early bearing does not seem to work well, it was designed to work with the Long 3 finger PP. They have changed to the Merc TO Bearing which is held on the clutch fork with spring loaded fingers. I'm sure I will be poo pooed but that's what I did.
I had the same problem. I am not running yet, but it seems to work. I extended the linkage rod. When my pedal is fully up there is tension on the spring.
@krylon32 Gary, the guys presumably used the TO bearing corresponding to the pressure plate: 49-50 and early 51 Merc? Do you know if it looks like this? Thanks! @Duke Thanks for the pics. That looks like my solution.
That bearing would likely help if it is thicker. The Mercury transmission has the same input shaft as the Ford. When I found my issue I found old posts on here where others have the same issue.
@hotrodA if you get the Merc bearing can you do a comparison of the size to the Ford? Not that I want to pull my motor to change it.
If I remember correctly, pretty sure I used a Ford throwout bearing with the Merc pressure plate. I didn't have to do any lengthening of the linkage, this was on a 1940.
@Dan Hay and @Duke Yep, I’m hoping that the adjustment, if there are enough threads, will take care of it. I’m a lifetime member of the KISS club. If I can get a Merc TO bearing to compare, I’ll report my findings. If I end up having to pull the trans I’ll put it in. What I can’t get a grip on is the difference in the adjustment needed going from the Long style Ford flathead pressure plate and the Borg and Beck “replacement” pressure plate. My 40 linkage looks totally stock, and that makes it more confusing.
After getting some more, but not enough, adjustment for the TO bearing to the PP fingers I pulled all the linkage out. 1.The threaded adjuster rod is only 4” long over all. Might work for stock 40, but not this. 2. The eye was worn oval, as well as the pin. I ordered a new 5” long rod and correct return spring pin from ThirdGen which should make it happen. When I get it installed I’ll report. Thanks to all who replied! I appreciate your help. Bill
Good on ya changing the worn pin and eye. The linkage is pretty sensitive to adjustment. Two turns of the linkage is a lot so worn components can complicate things.
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