Technical SBC to Ford 3 Speed Pressure Plate Issues

I have a 283 to 1932 Ford 3 speed. I just installed a new transmission and switched out the Mercury pressure plate to a new one from Fort Wayne. The set up worked with the original Mercury pressure plate, but with the new one it engages sooner, but I can get enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. I have it set up with no clutch play right now. It is in a 32 ford with stock pedals and transmission arm. Any ideas before I tear it apart again?
Thanks

 

Any ideas?

 

It's been a lot of years since I've had to make a clutch adjustment like this. But as I recall it's usually making two separate adjustments. And changing of one of them could affect the other. One adjustment was made at the rod between the Z-arm and the T.O. bearing lever. I think it was to set the clearance between the pressure plate and flywheel when the clutch is disengaged.

The other adjustment was made on the rod between the pedal and the Z-arm. This adjusted where in the pedal travel the clutch was fully engaged or released. I've got it in my head that you wanted to set disk clearance first and then the pedal travel. Or maybe the other way around. Somebody should be along soon enough to set me straight if I've got things flipped around.

 

The 32 set up only has an adjuster from the pedal arm to the clutch arm on the transmission.

 

Not sure if your adapter allows you to see into the bell housing. Can you crawl underneath and see what the movement of the clutch is like? Maybe the driven plate is binding on the splines or it’s hub is jammed against the flywheel rather than a lack of movement of the pressure plate.

 

Ahhh. Guess when I saw "SBC and a new trans" I pictured a more modern clutch setup.

Tim makes a few good points in his post above. Did you compare the thickness of the old and new disks?

 

Maybe a little bit of help here from the Ford Barn site.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=293104

 

I have installed a Fort Wayne pressure plate in my 40 Ford with a 327 Chevy engine. It's using the Chevy Flywheel and original trans as you are doing. Mine is working the same way, no end play if I want to disengage the disc and it grabs close to the floor as your's does. It's such a big job taking the trans out, I'm going to live with it for now and enjoy the summer. Good luck, I know I haven't helped you any so I'm sorry.

 

Sounds like the disc is slightly too thick. I bet after you drive it some and knock the high spots off the disc it will get better.

 

I am afraid that the plate is the problem. I was able to drive mine, but it is definitely not right. The clutch disk worked with the original Merc plate (it had 150 miles on it).

 

I figured out my problem, I phoned Fort Wayne Clutch. They are excellent! I found out that the new pressure plate that was sold to me by someone else is not a 49 Merc plate. New ones do not exist. It is likely a normal Chevy plate so it won’t work. The car is coming apart now.

 

One would think a linkage modification could be performed as to gain the added travel you need .

 

I’m no expert. But I’m in the process of setting up similar.
From the part numbers I’ve looked up is that Borg and Beck 988-1310 is the 49-early 51 merc.
The later ones and the gm ones have longer fingers.
Just had this 988 rebuilt. Pulled from an early 51 merc

 

Ft. Wayne sent me this for my SBC to early trans for my 40 Ford. It’s a #1310 B & B
The shorter arms clear the large early Ford TO bearing.


Found out that the 40 clutch rod was too short (and worn) to let the TO bearing fully disengage the disc. Bought a longer replacement from Third Gen which gave me enough adjustment. PITA.
Very smooth now with initial engagement an inch and a half from the floor.

 

What are you using for a flywheel?

 

I’m using a FW from a mid 60s c10

 

My engine is one piece rear seal and takes an external balanced wheel, but didn’t have one.
It’s a billet piece drilled for both size clutches. Came from Summit (I think)

 

It is out now, I will put it back together with the used Merc pressure plate.

 

Do you still have end play?

 

Casting number for the FW I have
Basic gm

 

Yes. I have it adjusted close to the Ford spec of 1”, probably 1-1/4”. My thinking is that the shorter arms require more travel to release the disc, requiring the longer adjuster rod. I think it is 1941.

 

My clutch pedal had pretty worn bushings so when I replaced them, it now works pretty good. I had the Ft Wayne 1510 pressure plate.

 

Why won't the Chevy pressure plate work ?it its the same bolt pattern as the merc .Is it the hight? Let me know . Iam getting ready to do this. Just wondering.

 

Go back a few posts and read post #14, the ‘49 to early ‘51 Mercury pressure plate is very similar to the Chevy PP with the exception of the shorter release fingers that work with the large Ford throw out bearing.

 

I’ve got both pressure plates somewhere in the shop
I’ve had em side by side. They look similar but I haven’t measured the thickness
The ford uses a large throw out bearing.
So the ford/merc plate has short fingers.

 

What is the cost of the pressure plate from them ?

 

It should have come in a Brinks truck instead of a UPS one.
Pressure plate, disc, core charge ($90!), and shipping was around $500! GOOD GRIEF!
At least it works. For now.

 

Ouch.
Glad a had an old one to get rebuilt
$105 to rework mine at our local friction place

 

I hear ya! They’re proud of them. Wish I had heard of Kentucky Clutch back then. Lesson learned.