Technical Schiefer flywheel question

Hey, i have an aluminum schiefer flywheel for my 401 nailhead i picked up a while ago. The friction surface has a brass insert where the clutch disc mates to that needs to be replaced. Its cracked/checked, just wondering if anyones had this done or if the brass insert is even servicable? Thanks

 

I had a Schiefer that had the insert curling up. I drilled through it in 6 places and counter sunk 1/4-20 flat head cap screws. Resurfaced the face and no problems. Mine was a steel insert. If yours is in fact, brass (or bronze) you'll probably have to have it turned, not ground, as the soft metal will foul the grinding stones and the machinist will hate you!
I'm wondering if yours might be steel also and is discolored due to heat.

 

Having been a distributor for Schiefer prodcts back in the 50s & 60s...your Buick fluwheel looks like most all did after being run...I would run it as is...

 

"" If yours is in fact, brass (or bronze) you'll probably have to have it turned, not ground, as the soft metal will foul the grinding stones and the machinist will hate you! ""


As stated. A typical insert aluminum flywheel. I reface them regularly. Any machinist will know to use a wet grinder or CBN cutter on soft metals.. I use a wet Kwik-Way on most soft flywheels. Leaves a good surface with no problems. You would not believe how much these flywheel surfaces move/warp from use..

 

Lee Chapel "Lees Speed Shop" Used to sell a steel plate bolted in with the pressure plate bolts for aluminum flywheels with worn surfaces. Always thought it wouldn't be hard to make one of these.
Gary

 

Hey 29

I had about 200 runs on mine in my 37' gasser and it always looked like that, run it

 

I resurfaced the Schieffer for my Packard V8 on a standard flywheel grinder. Worked fine and looked good.

jack vines

 

Most likely that brass alloy is a metal spray, not an insert. I agree, run it.

 

Thanks for the info guys, ill finish cleaning the black paint off it and have it resurfaced then.

 

As I remember I think it was some kind of a sprayed on copper surface, and it changed all kinds of colors with bad news looking cracks too but it never slipped

Back then we all ran them as they were a very good clutch set up and bullet proof

I think they were called the ' Velvet touch ' clutch

 

sandblast it....then machine it if it is warped.

 

An"Any machinist will know to use a wet grinder or CBN cutter on soft metals."

I know Bob, but I still remember getting chewed out by the 'machinist' at the local auto parts store about this many years ago. Like it was my duty to tell him how to do his job.

 

You might try a ' Blanchard Grinding ' shop as they wet grind all types of metals

 

Having it surfaced is just a waste of your money...a few runs after resurface,it will look same as before...
I would not reccommend a Velva-touch disc with it..run a good spring center disc

 

I still run my '60s Schiefer flywheel in my 3W. I had it in my '55 Small Block gasser for 100s of runs and kept it when I sold the car. It's been in the coupe since '82 and looked like yours when I installed it. No problems at all. Like others have said, "Run it"

 

I ran an aluminum flywheel with NO insert on my 276" flattie, sprung disc, Auburn featherweight pressure plate. Never a problem with the aluminum surface, but had an extremely quick rev!

I have 2 others, a Schieffer and a Weber, for my 283 SBCs that are 'extra' engines...(mild 'hop ups' that fit all the hot rods I have, 'just in case'...)
Love those aluminum 'wheels, for their instant RPM...Hate 'em in a heavy car.

Had one on a flathead in my '46 Coupe: Fast rev, launch was 'threatening'...seemed like it was gonna just come out screaming! ...Which it did, for about 15 feet...then fell flat. Re-rev, about 4 times...LOL

 

If you surface it you will just have an aluminum surface. Which will need to be run with a organic faced clutch disk.

 

""f you surface it you will just have an aluminum surface. Which will need to be run with a organic faced clutch disk.""

Which will not last in a hi horse/hi-torque car..
Back in the late sixties/early seventies. I was experimenting with a 3000 lb car with a big horse 440 " chevy and 4-spd on 10" rear slicks.

I went thru many of the spray on face flywheels as did many other racers. JUNK! I quit selling them. Seemed like I was getting more back than were sold. I tried a Wilcap all aluminum with organic clutch and it didn't last a weekend.. Tore up the clutch face area from heat/friction trying to get the revs up after the initial launch.. Went to a Weber riveted insert wheel and things got better..

About that time tires started catching up with the power levels and I went to a steel wheel and never used aluminum again..