Technical School me on primer?

The old guy that helped me paint my first car shot lacquer @ 70 PSI with a suction feed gun. I used to like the euphoria that shooting lacquer induces.

 

K 13 has it right, most of today's single and two stage are almost transparent , If you ever done a factory peeler (Ford and G.M.) had a lot of them first when they took the lead out of the paint and then the zinc out you could strip the cars with a air hose. You cou,d pick up the sheets of paint off the floor and see thru it, I am talking about the base and clear. Today's material does not have that good of coverage. Try red sealer under red and then try white sealer under red , out of the sane can , and you will have two different colors, one is dark and one reallys pops. I use the same color sealer as factory does so I can get a match. But if you are doing a complete use your sealer to adjust the hue in the finished product. This is my 2 cents worth. I have shot every thing from enamel to water born and I believe in sealer. Frank

 

frank
Actually lacquers were opaque as well. The base color under lacquer even effects black, dark primer will net you a deeper paint job with less tops coats then a light base will. Less tops coats aside from cost is better because of less cracking and crazing.

Some lacquers were more opaque then others candy's for example. long before "ghost Flames' were all the rage we did a '57 ford candy red over gold. Prior to shooting color we masked flames and shot them black, candy red over black is brownish in color. Shazaaam ghost flames.

 

****** you are absolutely correct , also the older Ford black had a blue cast where the G.M. Had a brown cast. I first learned with Dulux , the painter Ray told me lacquer was for rookies! and real painters shot enamel. That's been a long time ago. I do like the D.P.Series for sealer. Frank

 

I have used nothing but Dupont products for years now. I use veri-prime first (etch primer to bite into the metal. It is on my convertible, painted in 1999 and the car still looks good. Some one said not to use that if you want the car to last. I used Dupont euro primer next, this product has been replaced by a 2 part primer. which I now use. I am a frim belover in the use of self etch primer on bare metal before the primer is sprayed on. I even use some aerosol self etch when block sanding so if I go through to bare metal I can spray some on without the h***el of mixing up a small amount of veriprime

 

Yup, but wet sanding is to keep your paper lasting WAY longer than dry. Plus the water helps get all the sanded material off of the car as you go instead of it being on the car and making more work .

 

That was his point, with the new abrasives like ceramics it doesn't make much difference in paper life wet or dry.

 

Yeah. I just didnt want to say I dont believe that info. Never had a dry piece come close to lasting like a wet piece of paper.
And i hate the dust everywhere too. Wet sanding you dont have to put a mask on.
I have a tattoo that says "Wet Sand Forever"

 

I am probably wrong but I thought that part of the idea of wet sanding was to remove the sanded particles so that they didn't continue to scratch as you sanded. Not doubting what you are saying just stating my understanding.

 

As far as I know wet sanding is still the recommended method of sanding before painting. Sanding wet will keep the sanding grit from scratching the surface making a much smoother surface

 

Keep the airgun next to you when you wet sand even the primer (or paint or clear) and use it to blow off the water when you think its smooth. Then look at the surface. You will see tiny spots a bit darker than the surrounding area. Those are the tiny low spots (orange peel). Keep sanding and check again. You wont see any more spots once its really smooth!
I would wet sand a beer can if it made it taste any better!!

 

Consider me old school, but I'm not a big fan of etch primer on bare steel. Many who use it forget one has to be careful what they put over it. Epoxy on bare steel much better. I like the Utech epoxy line, as it can be sanded easily.

 

Yeah, I've watched guys spraying it over other primer, and even filler.

I have also watched those paint jobs fail.

 

On sealers - I've just recently started using a sealer. I'm using a PPG product: VAP-9** which is a tintable acrylic sealer. I started using it after doing a color change and spraying an off-topic Japanese 2 door coupe in a blue pearl. A gallon later, I still didn't have good coverage and went and bought another gallon. When discussing with my supplier, they suggested using a sealer - especially under pearls.
On the next job, I bought a couple quarts - sprayable straight out of the can, and only $14/qt. It covered great. Even better, the base covered quick. I've been using it since. It also has great corrosion resistance - an added benefit.

 

You're saying acrylic as in acrylic lacquer or acyclic enamel?

 

Actually meant to say vinyl acrylic primer, hence VAP
Here's the tech sheet.
http://www.bapspaint.com/docs/psheets/PPG/Industrial/CPC10_VAP9**_Tintable_Vinyl_Acrylic_Primer.pdf

 

Graphics ... Go and look up my post "EPOXY PRIMERS". There are two. One will give you some PPG numbers. Read that post. It will steer you in the right direction ...