i did a search and didnt find what i was looking for i know this should be pretty straight forward but i havent had to do it before i know this is hot rodding 101 type stuff but thought it would make a cool thread so how bout it any tips or tricks from the masters? its a 302 running when parked taking everything out carb to pan i have a picker and stand and dont care if the donor gets beat up thanks guys!
drain everything that will spill remove everything that's in the way disconnect everything that's connected connect the picking device safely and securely work slowly and safely.. or like my late uncle Tracy wrap a chain around the radiator core support and connect it to the bumper and tear it out of the way, then wrap the chain around the motor and yank it the same way, motor mounts tear easy, linkage and wires come apart like nuthin and the exhaust will come apart.. somewhere and there will be your new motor right there on the ground where you can roll it into your truck.
When I was a 15 year old I pulled my 56 Nomad under a tree and jacked the car up. Attached a chain to the motor and the tree. Slowly lowered the car and moved it away. Backed my dads 56 truck under the tree and jacked it up to meet the motor. Removed the chain and presto. I wish I had pictures.
Paul got it right. Make sure you use the heaviest chain you can bolt to the engine. DO NOT use the 'bent and wrapped' kind they use on swingsets. It'll break and your new nickname will be "Sir Limpsalot".
I don't know about that...when I worked at the junkyard some of those last attatching parts were pretty darn stubborn about coming off, and we used a big*** forklift to pull the engines out
LOL, Had a friend ,back when i was about 16, that had a '63 Impala SS convertable, 327-4speed. He was always blowing the engine and he pulled it his dads driveway from a tree limb that hung over the driveway. His dad was real **** about keeping his stuff pristine and my friend was not. After about the third time my friend pulled the engine from his SS and made a huge mess, oil, antifreeze, grease etc. all over the driveway his dad cut off the limb that hung over the driveway!
You don't care if the doner gets beat up? You could then prop the engine up from underneath, take out a torch and cut away anything that doesn't look like an engine.
when you put your finger in the motormount hole to push out the large bolt, have another car ready and a rag to wrap the finger in............DONT DO it....in saying that, rather than belt out the bolts and stuff the threads, lift the engine weight slightly so the bolts just slide out....and back in when the time comes.....if you use small prybars etc it all can be easy work by yourself....and have yourself a spare transmission yoke, so you can pull out the tailshaft and slip in the yoke....I never bother draining trans and nothing gets spilt...remove front radiator support panel if you want it makes it easier to just lift and pull forward....I also try and leave motor complete with acc, because if it sits around it has the protection of all parts bolted on{and you will see what went where}.Bert
I could elaborate on every step, but for this particular step you need to use a long enough chain to get the pulling vehicle up to speed, even then it will take a few good hard jolts to break everything free. a forklift is far to slow, and you are relying on the weight of the donor car to tear the motor free, the sudden shock of the moving vehicle's m*** and momentum is many times greater than that.
leave the tailshaft in the trans and disconnect the driveshaft at the from yoke. it will keep trans fluid from pourin all over your driveway. i learned it the hard way when i was 13. dont use intake manifold lift plate. use nice big bolds and heavy chain. get the motor balanced. disconnect everything. label all wire if you need to. once you have everything disconnected...check it again.
first thing I always do is get a 5 pound bag of kitty litter to clean up the mess. even with everything drained there will be a spill of some sort when I do it.I always use those adjustable puller thingies that rootie kapootie showed in his picture. lets you tilt the motor so you can more easily clear the firewall and radiator support.I would never use a tree limb. ever seen a broken limb on the ground all nice and healthy on the outside and rotted to **** on the inside?
The whole operations gets 100 times easier if you pull the whole front clip off of the car. Depending on the car, there are usually 1 bolt at the bottom of each rear fender, one at the top, and a couple up front in the center. The fenders, radiator and support, and inner fenders then all pull as one unit. It might sound like a lot of work but it really isn't, and you will saved WAY more time pulling the motor when you don't have to reach over/under/around all that sheetmetal to get to everything. Trust me on this; I've done it both ways on a variety of cars, and will always pull the front clip if I can. Just remember to get at least one buddy to help you lift it all up and off the car.
2x4's and 6's if you have them laying about. Heavy (overkill) chain. Prybar's. Oil dry, or kitty litter. Box of blue Handi towel's. Old rag's. Hand cleaner. Drag or drive it to car wash to de-gunge everything you need to work on or around. Superclean spray the night befo'. Heavy, long sleeved pullover, glove's and afore mentioned eye protection. Good-luck.
i got a motor from my friend d j [hamb name flatdog] from a 64 chevy they were gonna junk. went to his shop and started looking around for tools to loosen motor "what are you doing" dj said" you don't need tools for this, come with me" he backed the wrecker up to the 64 opened the hood, wrapped a chain around the motor and said "watch this" he then proceeded to jerk the hydralic boom up and down till the motor and trans were litterally torn out of the car smashing anything in the way and servering all lines hoses mounts linkage etc quite at site to see but hey he got the motor/trans out in about 10 minutes. can also remember pulling motors with heavy iron a frames and very heavy block and tackle units you had to lift up then you had to push the car back cause the a frame wasn't gonna move hey this was way before todays modern motor cranes and saddles john
Drain everything that will spill remove everything that's in the way disconnect everything that's connected connect the picking device safely and securely work slowly and safely. If you pull it out with a chain, you'll be buying alot of new tin. Paul and JD have it down good. Take your time and learn as you go. I've done so many, it just happens now when I stand in front of a car(grin) Juknkyard
I had an MGB that ate clutches (I later found out it needed a bushing in the end of the crank) but you have to pull the engine and trans. together to get the trans out. I got to where I could come home from work, pull the engine and trans., put in a new clutch and have it running in time to get a little sleep and back to work the next morning...by myself.
that cracks me up it's been a while, but for a few years there I was either pulling a motor, swapping a transmission replacing a clutch swapping a rearend, heads.. or something just as major, all to make it faster, better, quicker.. every weekend, had to have it apart and back together for Monday gotta get to work ya know?
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