I'm scratch building a Roadster body, for my Chevy Dry Lake build. But in a little dumb-stumped on a idear for the closing mechanism/latch/lock. I'm a big believer in KISS. So I would like to see some simple solution from other HAMBers, on how you did it. I've been contemplating to do a very simple Bolt-action set up, thing pig-sti or rifle bolt. Just a 2-2 1/2 inch long bolt that goes true a pipe, and with a Nut on the outside with points end on it, that fits in a drilled hole the post. I won't to make it held open by a spring, and have a slighter thru the inside plate of the door, this will then be used to pull the bolt in to the post to lock. Is this good enough, for a bumpy rod, or is there a better way? Show me what you got?
My T had some type of drawer latch and tiny receivers on the post but they were very stiff and tempermental. I got sick of them quick and needed something I could lash up fast as the car was on the road. I went to the hardware store and bought a pair of those sliding bolt latches. 3 1/2" I used...and they look barnyard industrial to say the least...but oddly, they don't look out of place on the inner door panels of the T and in two summers of use, nobody has ever given them a second look. I DO intend to replace them once I get into doing a nicer interior, but for now you just can't beat the positive latching and ease of operation compared to the old setup. The suicide doors are not gonna pop open. Thats a guarantee! I suggest you google "sliding bolt latch"..."gate latch" etc for a lot of ideas that you could easily fabricate yourself while making it old car friendly.
Why reinvent the wheel? Just use a latch off another car. Most times I get them for free, or almost free!
Do you self a favor and by one of the latch set ups from speedway motors. They carry several different styles. Some even come with mounting kits. Trust me worth the money
I've used the small bear claw ones,with a draw nob on the inside only. They grab 360* the pin so hold for bumps.
Okay I see where most of you are going, I'm no big fan of how the new sty latches look, and my doors at 40mm thick this is less two inches, for you imperialist (sorry couldn't help my self). The most I've found all need more then 2.5-3, inches width of the doors. http://www.veterantraktordele.dk/shopIndex.asp?CatID=226&lid=2 I work at a small firm builds machines for seed sorting/drying etc. I can build a lot for the price of the agri-stuff in the link above. And I keep away from Speedway till I've done all the mock up on my car, so I can order all in one go, and I don't want my doors to swing around on there own after I mounted them.
OK,I now understand you don't,so heres some stuff that may help about the small bear claws. My inter doors {1928 ModalA roadster} were rusted out so bad,I cut out the inter an replaced with steel one in. sq.box tube,the latchs are mounted inside kind of the box tube with some small plates added. I'm giving you a photo I had keeped from back when I did it,but I know they still make the latchs. Even with the paded door panel on,its all only about 1.5 in. from out side of door to outside of panel. Hope that helps. Other then the grab pin on post that always stuck out stock ,n still dose,it works great
Not being disrespectful, but what is the Latch and what is the Pin? Picture? the bolt or the "hole"? And why like that?
I think the technical term for what you want is a barrel bolt. You get spring-loaded barrel bolts for use on tall double doors in buildings, often attached to a chain, which you'd remove or replace with something nicer. They have an angled bolt (the actual sliding part) which engages with an angled striker to produce a self-latching action when you close the door. Tiny image, but it looks like this: Funny, I tried to read the Danish in the link you posted, and it sounded like Afrikaans in my head. I ought to have been able to understand it, but I couldn't! I am told that the Afrikaans spoken in the affluent eastern suburbs of Pretoria sounds a lot like Danish. It's the "å" sounds.
I was thinking of the bearclaw style latch in the Model A door above. If your doors are narrow put the pin on the door and mount the latch on the body. Might be a little "street roddy" but reliable secure latch.
Tailgate latches from a pickup are thin , and most are spring loaded , the good thing about bearclaws are they have a secondary catch , in other words two positions = fully closed and halfway
Speedway has what they call a t-bucket latch , I have seen them in heavy equipment like catapillars , John Deere , ect , the square receptical for an outside handle accepts a ford door handle I use them in conjunction with a stock type triangle wedge striker , then you can use re-pop 32 ford roadster dove tails I tried bearclaws cause I was told I wouldn't need dove tails... The doors rattled constantly I like the above latches .. They have the old feel and sound
Thank you, Ned. The issue is I need to find the Danish name for it, so I can google it and find one. Because I would rather use a Danish product, I can go get at the local hardware store. So I don't need to wait a week or two for something, After paying it, shipping, tax and then might not be what I want. And there might come a over I front of the three words in the above. I found this: It's funny you say that. The island I grew up on is know for its southern dialect whom has its roots I dutch. Dutch is a language that is related to German and English. I speak both English and German, I spoke my own dialect. And Afrikaan, makes as much sense as Dutch to me. But that doesn't mean I can speak neither. The link was so you could se the pics and see the price.
On the photos I posted;The pin/barrel bolt.,is stock location of were 28 Ford mounted on the rear post/body,there tab for the door to hook to. Yes putting it the other way=on the door vs on the body like stock dose stop it from sticking out in to the door openning{ good thing to do and is done often in new builds. I did it the way Ford did,as a wanted the handel in door as it was stock perty much and were my Modal A one was before.
Price? I found the same one over here, the was for a tractor cab. They was 35 usd a piece The other one I posted in post above 5 used a piece. Can speedway match that? It's gonna be a scratch build roadster in dry style, so no need for outside. There will most likely be a tonneau cover. Think Spurgin roadster, pre track nose and for suspension. And pre the over restoration, no rave car ever look as perfect as the resorted ones soon!
If you have a printer you might just want to print the photos of the bolt latches and take those to one of the better hardware stores close to you. No need for words then. As far as bear claw or modern latches go I'd think there would be many small euro cars that could serve as donors. Ag or industrial equipment may be a source of latches too.
I think they are $20 from speedway but I have found them cheap from other sources... I'm not sure how it is there but here you have to research on place will sell it for $50 and the next $10 for the exact same part ... Something like that the repair man just pays the 50 to fix his tractor doesn't research company stays in bussiness cause they only have to sell to one ****er instead of 5 normal guys
new add;http://www.hotrodlatches.com/Small_Latch_p/small-latches.htm But was were I got the small a few year back,hard to beat even now at $16 per door now
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