Projects Scratch building a 26 Model T Pickup, everything starts with a buck !

If I may, can I suggest that you start with a less complicated piece, and save something like the cowl until later on. Improve your skills on the less complex pieces, and then tackle the tuff stuff after you build up your confidence and acquire the required equipment. To complete the project, all the pieces have to be made.....start easier and work up to the difficult. Don't remember where I read this, but it make sense to me.

 

Hey Guys.

After a couple of years of procrastination I am ready to get stuck back into the roadster project after a lead on some much needed panels.

What a difference a couple of years make, as “a boner” so rightly put, it’s better to work on less challenging tasks before tackling something like the cowl.

So I have re-assessed my whole approach, as far as the cowl goes, I am wondering if it’s even worth my time fabricating one at all. I have two to work with so my plan now is to repair the first one I got years ago, by using the most recent one as a pattern then selling it off once the first is repaired.

The benefit of hindsight is a wonderful thing as its allowed me the opportunity to re assess a number of other areas.

This is the updated plan:

Original cowl and doors.

Scratch built bun panels, quarter panels, beaver panel, tulip panel, centre tub, deck lid and sub rails and floor pans. All panels will use 18 Gauge Cold Rolled Steel.

The quarter panels will feature a slight crown to avoid any chance of oil canning. The wheel wells will be the same dimensions as Model A Roadsters and Coupes as this will be set up to run on a Model frame.

These are the panels I am looking to purchase, a left hand side bun panel, inner deck lid skin and tulip panel.

 

In the last year or so, I have refined my metal shaping skills to the point where I feel more than cape able of tackling this.

 

The biggest stumbling block with this project has been how to shape a reverse curve. Thanks to Lazzie Metal Shaping on Youtube, I have finally figured this out. This is the tulip panel I shaped up after figuring it out.

 

Hey Guys.

After several years of setbacks, I was finally able to pick up the panels over NYE.

 

There were just the three panels, the bun panel, the tulip panel and the deck lid skin. But all are vital, especially the bun panel.
Overall they are in very good condition, the bun panel has some minor rust and pitting along the bottom and it appears a triangular piece was welded in at bottom where the two sections meet. I won’t be repairing any of it beyond, straightening the bottom flange as it will be used as a pattern.

 

The other thing I picked up was a badly damaged 30 Roadster Body. While the link between the two may not be obvious, I always intended to make the wheel wells on the turtle deck larger to suit the Model A rear fenders.

 

To make the larger wheel wells, I will be using the Model A Roadster quarter panels as patterns as well.

 

While I don’t expect making up the turtle deck will be all that challenging, the biggest hurdle will be obtaining the measurements. The deck lid and tulip panel will be easy as I already have them but I need measurements of the tail pan.

 

I have been scouring the web for other measurements and secured these ones.

 

This one in particular is very good because it gives me the length and width of the turtle deck.

 

The other measurements I need are of the overall length of the radius.
And the height of the turtle deck taken from the centre of the tulip panel.
Once I have all the required measurements, I will begin constructing a jig to hang the panels.

 

Hey Guys.
I was able to make up a crude template out of cardboard. As well as that, i have been posting up on various pages asking for measurements including for the sub rails.

Things are at a bit of a standstill at the moment, so if i cant get any measurements, I will move straight onto fabricating the doors and bun panels.

 

Hey Guys.

Progress has been slow as I am still chasing up measurements for the various body panels I need to fabricate. I did have some success however in obtaining measurements to make up the subrails, thanks to the efforts of a number of fellow HAMBERS.

One of the first things I will complete will be the subrails.
They will be constructed out of various lengths of 1x2, 1x3 and 2x2 Rectangular Hollow Section. In case anyone is wondering what RHS actually is, its rectangular steel tubing thats sold in either mild steel or galvanised form.

I made up this one to test out my Model A coupe, roadster and cabriolet bodies last year. It will be used as a jig for the Model T Subrails, there by saving me a heap of time.

 

As far as the body panels go, I am mainly concentrating on the bun panels. I made up this flexible reversible paper pattern as a way to get precise measurements.

 

It was placed over the cardboard and used like a stencil to trace around the cardboard. The purpose of the cardboard is to act as a template forvwhen i need to cut out the blanks for the sheetmetal.

I have left one inch edges around the perimeter for the flanges, the idea being, i wheel the shape into the panel first before adding the flanges in.

 

The other thing I did was take the cardboard template I had created for the turtledeck and placed it over these quarter panels I had made up years ago.

While far from perfect, they do have the swage for the wheel wells incorperated into them, and I would rather repair these than source fresh steel which has almost doubled in price over the last few years.

 

The upper swage wil be cut off once I have correct measurements of the side profiles. The cardboard template is just a rough guide.

The best way to measure where the flat profile transitions into the radius part is to place a straight edge at the base of the quarter panel in front of the wheel wells and mark at the point where the radius starts.

Then do the same directly above the middle of the wheel arch and directly behind the wheel arch.

 

Hello, I have been following your thread. I do have several 26-27 roadster turtle decks and could try to get you measurements if you are still needing them. let me know what you need glad to help. Mike

 

Thanks for that.
I’m only after a four measurements.

A is the overall length of the radius measured along the inside edge that sits against the tulip panel, deck lid and tail pan.

B is the length between the leading edge of the turtle deck and the leading edge of the wheel well swage.

C is the length of the wheel well between the wheel well swages.

D is the length of the of the corner between the trailing edge of the rear wheel well.

Cheers.

 

Just checking in on the progress.

 

I have watched your progress here & elsewhere. You have certainly developed great skills in the last couple of years. Looking forward to watching this come together!

 

Sorry if I'm late since you responded to my offer to get you the needed measurements. IF you are still needing them I can provide these for you, the drawing you did made it very clear. glad to help. Mike

 

That’s much appreciated, there was one measurement I completely overlooked however. It’s the height of the wheel well at the centre, measured to the bottom of the wheel arch swage, as shown here.

 

Hey Guys.

I skipped a couple of steps but here is how it’s looking at the moment.
Originally I was going to duplicate the original, but decided instead to make up the opposite side.

Rather than using scrap steel, I settled on better quality.

I found an old door skin, I’d shaped up years ago that was gathering dust and rust. I decided not to bother sanding it off, I want it to match the patina of the original.

After hammering out the folds, I ran it through the English wheel to flatten out the swage.

Unfortunately the lines of the swage are still visible at the top, I’m not sure how to remove them altogether, maybe lightly grinding down then file finishing will smooth it out.

 

I don’t know why it was so easy to shape but I’m not complaining.

 

The flanges however, were anything but easy. The problem with using tipping dies to create the flange, is the distortion it creates.

Hammer forms will need to be constructed to properly finish off the flanges that meet the doors and turtledeck.

 

The other thing I did was complete an inside template, like the other two, this one is reversible. This template is used to set up the lines for the flanges.

 

The template will also be used to create the hammer forms for the two areas highlighted here.

When I first started this post, I had just gotten a second roadster cowl, I didn’t really need it, but the price was right so I snapped it up.

I have decided to create a second body using this cowl, so all the panels will be duplicated.

The better panels will go into the second body, I’m undecided on whether it will be a roadster or roadster pickup, but whatever form it takes it will be sold off as I don’t need two and I need the money to put towards a stand alone workshop.

The workshop I’m using is fine for shaping panels, it’s inside the house so I can work day or night, rain hail or shine, but it would be nice to be able to set it up on a rolling frame.