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Projects Screw It Im gonna go for it! 36 Ford coupe to be

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lowcoe, Jan 17, 2011.

  1. You building a kustom not creating a perfect replica it's all about what you like
     
  2. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1418620761.513126.jpg


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  3. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 6,463

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Maybe that top line is the most important line on the whole car. When it is all done and as beautiful as the one you posted pictures of, the clueless will never notice. The rest will understand that you did it the hard way. I wouldn't have been able to see the 3 window hiding in that sedan. I now wonder how many of the 3 windows I have seen over the years started life as something else. Well done!
     
  4. Fordgasser1
    Joined: Jan 20, 2009
    Posts: 1,326

    Fordgasser1
    Member
    from Jersey

    Holy hell! How did I miss this thread! You are one sick fellow! I mean the haters got on me for cuttin' the 4 dr.,but you took a 2 dr. Sedan!! Crazy! But I love it! Keep up the great work and build what you want!
     
  5. 36 Vick
    Joined: Oct 21, 2014
    Posts: 195

    36 Vick
    Member
    from Kerman, Ca

    Hey there Lowcoe. 40 myself next month. Picked up the pic you see on my profile. This car was a 4 door. I wish I had fenders originally, but it didn't. So I'm going for a fenderless build. Starting with the front and moving my way back.

    Let's build these together and meet halfway... I'm in California
     
  6. King ford
    Joined: Mar 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,477

    King ford
    Member
    from 08302

    Major props to you sir!....it's really coming around,thanks for sharing !


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  7. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1419385938.978164.jpg

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    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1419385963.998640.jpg

    My ADD or whatever it is said the body had to come off the frame so that frame mods and body work could happen at the same time.


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    Last edited: Apr 26, 2015
  8. Wow your frame is nice looking. Most of the 36s I've seen are pretty rusty. I'm replacing 75% of mine.
     
  9. Thanks all. I guess the frame is pretty good. I took it for granted I suppose. Black paint and a camera phone helps too. It does have some heavy pitting on the tops where the body rested . Nothing that would affect the strength. I managed to sneak out today and remove all the rivets holding the center section of the crossmember. About 25-30. The final one was the battery box crossmember. As the last rivet popped out the drill bit caught in the hole, spun the support 360 and whacked me right up side the temple. I'll be sporting a nice purple badge for Christmas.
    Maybe tomorrow , when things die down, I'll sneak out and make my cuts in the crossmember to make room for the tranny.


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  10. hooliganshotrods
    Joined: Dec 2, 2010
    Posts: 630

    hooliganshotrods
    Member

    Wow man, it sure is coming along. Stay at it, looking forward to seeing more.
     
  11. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 4,987

    phat rat
    Member

    You can use all the OE window mechanism. I have PW in my cpe using Ford window motors before they went metric. Fab a mounting bracket for the motor, weld it to the regulator frame so the teeth mesh and that's it other than mounting and wiring your switches in
     
  12. That's cool! What year did ford go metric? 80's?


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  13. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 4,987

    phat rat
    Member

    Sometime in the late 80's. Any of the FoMoCo products will work. Ford, Merc or Lincoln and their offspring. I used the window switches from the rear doors of a 4dr.
     
  14. I'm at a crossroads. I have done a fair amount of work to the rear frame to get the body channeled 6+ inches over the frame . The body sits down on the modified rear frame nicely. But then all the sheet metal mounting points will have to change.

    I've been having impure mustang 2 thoughts about the front..,.

    Otherwise my thought is to modify the front wishbone widening it around the tranny and extending it back 10 inches with some sort of z in the middle of it to maintain henrys original type setup. Never seen it done but seems more sensible than splitting the wishbones..... Oh the agony.......

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1420854714.296643.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1420854727.709156.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1420854743.846354.jpg


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    Last edited: Apr 26, 2015
  15. Thinking about an airbag assist in the rear like Bear's (surf city's). Not that I'm even in the same league.


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  16. That's what hot-rodding is, at least used to be, build it the way you want, not other people's ideas.
     
  17. jdownunder
    Joined: Aug 21, 2007
    Posts: 334

    jdownunder
    Member

    lowcoe you have the vision!! nice work mate
    just keep pushing i can see the light at the end of the tunnel your traveling through
     
  18. Caddy-O
    Joined: Aug 8, 2006
    Posts: 1,655

    Caddy-O
    Member

    Impressive work...
    Love this car !
     
  19. Thanks. I'm tooling up a bit and waiting for a burst of inspiration. You all are helping. 31 Vicky with a hemi's thread is messing with my head big time right now......
     
  20. Fabbed up the rearmost sub rails. Put the body back on the frame to figure out where exactly to attach the sub rails to to the wheel wells. Have had a dry spell mostly because I couldn't decide on which direction to go. I'm sticking with my original plan of channeling the body over the frame. Apologies to The Man I was asking him to make me some CNC parts and then I backed out. Probably not the best way to do it but I'm pretending it's 1950.... ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1423357572.898503.jpg

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    Last edited: Apr 26, 2015
  21. We're good homie. Weld on.
     
    lowcoe likes this.
  22. Get some mojomentum back :)
    That looks like it's going to work great
     
    lowcoe likes this.
  23. telekenfun
    Joined: Mar 9, 2010
    Posts: 250

    telekenfun
    Member

    Lowcoe, Thanks for posting the pics of your rear subrails, I've been curious as to how you where going to connect the body to the wheel well/frame rail kick-up. Now, will your floor pivot on the rails from the cowl mounts rearward? Also will you need to modify the cowl mounts?
    I originally had misgivings about your project but creativity and diligence has seemed to prevail, congrats and good on you! It's developing very nicely. Although I agree with others regarding you roof, I think you're wise not to be concerned as some regarding the roofline at this time. When the body/frame/stance/road height are more locked down you'll be able see what it needs. I suffered that same circumstance with my 5 window chop, which I pondered for 2 seasons while doing bare metal shake down cruising before devising how and what needed to be done to refine the shape of the rear of the turret.
    Great work, it's been most educational and please keep posting for us.
    Best Regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.
     
  24. Thanks telekenfun. I have to slice into the front most part of the cowl feet area as it does pivot on a spot back from the front of the cowl about 6 inches. I'll take some pics tonight. I hesitated because I know that it's gonna lead to issues hanging the front sheet metal. I envision the pivot point being the headlight stand area but am winging it a little bit. And yes I do see more work ahead on the roof. I'm hoping Kenneth can come over from Scandinavia and help me wheel out a new one one of these days. Maybe if he ever makes it out so so cal on the show circuit.

    You said you were gonna drop in on Nate. If you do please ask him if you can post update pictures on his thread for us.

    Thx
     
  25. So this is where you´ve been hiding Lowcoe.Having a hard time looking for and finding all of the threads I used to follow before now when Hamb is splited up. You have really made progress since last time I looked in and I think you are doing good on your own.But ofcourse coming over to CA and do some work would have been a real adventure:)
     
  26. I'm in the not so talented, little brother you tolerate section[emoji1].


    It's not too late maybe 2016 GNRS or LA roadsters show is always in June.... Just sayin. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1423430919.017325.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2015
  27. telekenfun
    Joined: Mar 9, 2010
    Posts: 250

    telekenfun
    Member

    So far, I have only had a phone conversation with Nate. I hope to meet up with him Tuesday. However , He said the coupe has been pushed off into the corner as he is presently completely engrossed in manufacturing "Hammers". Last year he began making a couple for himself. I saw them during last years visit. He has reduced the elements of a quality hammer to the absolute minimum, just exactly what is needed for the work we need to do. He's an amazing genius at fabricating and converting a vision into a real smash your finger metal shaping machine. He has realized hand fabricating is too time consuming so has ventured into the process of making patterns and lining up casting facilities. Additionally he's making a couple of machining jigs to simplify finishing process of his hammers. He's serious, I suspect he has seen a demand for himself as well as the rest of us for a good and inexpensive shaping tool. Still time to get or order in!
    I suspect that once he has this project in cruise control he'll be getting back on his 36. Prior to this hammer venture, his coupe was really taking shape. Some of his frustration was body contortions and resulting body line misalignment. His last posts were where he was fabbing up a new pair of cowl posts as you were just talking about for your build. Perhaps that's what pushed him back into the hammer need.
    Which leads me to comments of the importance of build your car off a solid LEVEL frame or jig, especially when the lower portions of the car has been rusted out. Get a laser level from HarborF, cheap and measure everything left to right/front to rear against that laser reference. That way you can fix things before it causes unseen problems down the road. If you are using your frame be sure to support it at the load bearing points ie where the wheels push up on the frame. Otherwise, thing can go to hell when the wheels hit the ground.
    Best regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.
     
  28. rcnut223
    Joined: Oct 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,282

    rcnut223
    Member
    from wisconsin

    Just found this thread, your doing a great job!! Enjoy , your learning a ton and hopefully having fun!!

    Keep it up man !!


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  29. Thanks RC. Here's the pictures I promised. The pivot is minimal. I'm trying to decide if 6inches from the ground in the rear is too low.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1423453644.785529.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1423453665.583867.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2015

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