Dick, Did you find Model A wires that were that true? Or have you developed a way to straighten them? Tom, I can't be sure anymore but I think I had about .125" on both wheels. Mine are 16". I could have gone through the traps with my hands off the wheel it went so straight. No hop, no pull. My crude measurement technique was a stationary pointer and a calibrated eyeball. I think I did it off the widest part of the tire sidewall. The camber (wheels out at the top, looking from the front) Is a couple degrees on mine. I'd like zero degrees and might have to give the axle the logging chain/bottle jack/heat treatment. Doesn't seem to negatively affect handling the way it is though. More a cosmetic problem.
bobw- Bob as I told Dick S I really feel the problem is in the balance and not having any shocks with that cross leaf spring that has a fair amount flexibility. I ran rims on the 29 RPU that were between .072 - .136" and with a good balance they were fine on the freeway at 70, but it had a set of new shocks up front. ThingyM- Dick, I have always ran 1/16 - 3/16 toe in on all my dragster and the only time I have had a problem was when I purchased the yellow altered and did not check the setting before making my Lic passes at Palmdale. The car had 1/8'" toe out and from mid track to top end it was all over the track. Toe out ain't for dragster, just my take.
Bob, I've never seen an A wheel that true. I make up a spoke bender much like our "pencil" steel benders at the float. If bent properly they hold their new shape just fine for straight-line racing. Never tried it on street wheels, but have been told it does work.
Got the wheels checked and balanced this morning and they were not bad at all. The one that was .090" out of true only took 1oz and the .124" rim took 1.75oz. The guy at my local (1 man tire shop) road races sportman motorcycles and said the tires that are on the front have strong/heavy side wall for cornering and would be run at 6-8# when racing (this is running L/R all day). For straight line runs he would set them on 6# to get a little more foot print and softness in the tire. He agrees that this type cross spring with these tires most have some type of shock setup to help stop the hop. I ordered a set of friction shocks off the bay and should be able to start installation fabrication next week. Just for information we ran the tires at 15# this past weekend. I know that this is old stuff to some out there, but if it helps a builder it all good.
Bobw & any others -- Bob I just got the friction shocks I ordered, they are just like the ones you built and run on your dragster and 27 roadster. As I have never ran this type of shock and was hoping that you could give me a starting point on how tight to set the shocks. Is there a way to test the up & down as they are tightened up? I sent you a PM but would like your reply to be posted here so all can see the comments.
Tom, I ain't no expert on friction shocks, or much anything else. What I did was before connecting the link from the shock to the axle, I tightened the shock so it felt similar to a fairly soft hydraulic shock when moving it by hand. Did you get yours from RPM (Ron Pope Motorsports)? They're nice. Your car sure looks great. The tire pressure information was interesting. I didn't know what bike tires run so I put about 28 lbs. in mine. I have been watching the Hot Rod Reunion most of the day. Now watching replays of NE-1, etc.
bobw -- Ya Bob, those are the ones he sells on the bay, with my tools it was a no brainier at $33 a pair. Thanks for the information, I will try that. I don't know if you have the same side wall type tires, these are road race tires that have a stiff side wall, I really wanted a touring type tire but could not find one in the size I wanted for a descent price. These tires have a max pressure of 20# and can be run at 6-10# for a little more flexibility. Thanks for the nice comment on the car, I have started to remove all my brake pedal system and master cylinder as I could not modify it to my liking, so I am going to build a below floor unit with new 3/4" cylinder. You know me, I buy & sell a lot of stuff here on the HAMB and I just scored a Clifford dull 4bl intake with 4x2 adapters and two Holley/weber new never run carbs and trick linkage setup. Pictures when I get it in a week or so.
Hey TOM you might try checking out the local motorcycle shops and see if they have some good take offs wepicked up apair for 25 bucks just athought L J
mudflap261 -- Larry, I tried that when I first started looking for tires. I went to 12 shops in our area and got the same answer, NO SALES OF USED TIRES. It's a legal issue in CA, the state with unlimited law suits. Maybe I could get you to see if some are around your parts. I really wanted a soft touring tire that would fit a Ford 17" rim that is about 3.75" inside bead to bead. I would be glad to pay the shipping if not to much. The tires I have on it now are 110 x 80mm.
Got a little done on mounting the new friction shocks. Rebuilt the top shackle mount that is welded to the axle and installed a 7/16 grade 8 bolt to connect the arms to. After looking at the total movement up & down in an arc I think I would have only 1" up/down as they sit now. Thinking about mounting the base 3" higher and making a short link with rod ends so I can get at least 3" up & 3" down with no bind. Should not need more than 6" total travel on most of our tracks, but more is better. I'll take a new look in the morning. Love this 70 degree weather. Makes me want to get out in the shop and fix the mistakes I made in the build.
Tom, you need a link between the shock arm and the axle. It will bind the way you have it. A couple inches of wheel travel should be enough, unless you are going rock crawling.
injected27 & bobw -- Jason, just got started a little today and I already see some problems. Bob, When I looked at the start today I could not see any way it would not bind without adding a link to the system. I may have to build a mount that is about 3" higher and build a link as short as I can. I think it will all work pretty good when it is done. I TOLD YOU GUYS THAT I WAS A DRIVER, NOT A BUILDER .
tom, i made shock links useing 4 orchard hardware 3/8`s rod ends (8$ each). two male and two female with a locknut. the total is only about 3 inches long. you might want to install limiting straps as i have had the shackles reverse during hard launches and it scares the heck out of you when that happens. just saying.
injected 27 & old sparks Jason, that hurts, but everyone in our area knows she is better. Just another racing thing I have to deal with. Dan, great way to get them as short as I can. May have to order some from Speedway as most stores don't carry 7/16 that I need. I think we covered the reversal when we welded that top steering side spring shackle at the races Sunday morning. Pour mans Pan Hard Rod,old dirt track trick. By the way, your boys from down under looked real nice in the car last week at the Reunion. Must have bin that great tune up.
thanks for the compliment ,but the 7.0 car was all on my son. i was on the funny car clutch and managed to screw that up both qualifiers.you should have come to the aussie party sat night , live band and all. i still was in bed by 10. must be something about age
Well Dan, tell your son he did a fine job and had that altered flying. I did not even go out to the race, just watched it on BANGSHIFT most of the weekend. I hope to have this brake & front end stuff done in a month so I can test the brakes and converter at home on my street. The first T&T is Late Feb a few weeks before the March Meet. I would like to test the car both days. I may pull the head and have it milled / intake head bolt bosses removed and 1.94/1.60 valves installed in Dec if all works out. Keep working on your ride, looking forward to next season.
Well just got the intake carb setup that I purchases from guy on the HAMB on Monday. Price was to good to pass up and I plan on running it on the built Chevy 250 that I hope to get done mid season 2013. It is a Clifford 2x4 intake, two 2x4 adapters, two Holley 5200 progressive 2Bbl carbs (about 185 cfm each) and a custom linkage setup. Everything is new, carbs have never seen gas. Still waiting for my link parts to finish front shocks. Started removing all the old brake pedal setup and will start on new system in a few weeks.
I run a similar 2 x 2 on my Willys coupe with Autolite 2100s and I love it, it works well even without manifold heat.
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER -- That a real nice setup you have on the Willy's, looks nice and clean. Do you run chokes on both carbs or lock one open and run electric choke on the other? Never played with this type carb before so I am just learning. I think it will work well when I get it all sorted out. From what I have read so far, they say that these carbs are a little hard to get jetted correct for each application, but when you get it correct you don't have to mess with them very often.
be careful tom you`re falling into that old trap all of us old drag racers do. you`re trying to get the most out of your combination. imagine that, ha.
canadianal & old sparks Thanks Al, I hope it works as good as it looks. Those carbs were used on early Ford, Merc, Pinto, Vaga, Mustang 4 & 6 cylinder motors. Well Dan, that's what racers do, we are never satisfied. I have not got the car so it can make a full pass and I want more HP. I am also looking at making two extra adapters so I can try running my 94 carbs also. I would like to drop that intake with the 94's on the existing 194" motor and see how it works.
Nice intake/carb set up, Tom. That should work out well. I've looked for those carbs all summer & fall at swap meets but no luck. Keep up the great work and keep posting. It's gonna be a long winter here.
If you want to see a bunch of fine looking cars at the 2012 HAMB Drags, click on http://flatheaddrag.com/, then "2012 HAMB Drag Link to see 800+ photo's by Jim Marllet. If this don't get you in the mood to build, nothing will. For use out on the Coast there are a bunch of good shots of Joe & Jeanna's cars. Check it out, never seen so many C/C at one nostalgia meet.
bobw -- Well Bob, they always say out this way that if you have a "Long Hot Summer" you should have a "Mild Short Winter. With April - Sept temp at 90 - 115 it was one HOT/HOT/HOT & LONG summer. I do know what you mean about a long cold winter. My 16 year old grandson played there second Prep State Final game last Friday and when game started 7pm it was 56 deg and 2 1/2 hours later it was 36 deg at the end game. I am real happy that I fell on a great deal (4 bills) for everything you see in the photo's. I am already building a second adapter plate with 1" risers that I can try my existing Holley 94's on. The intake should breath a lot better than the old modified stock unit. I am going to use the bigger carbs on the Chevy 250+ build.
Got a little more work done on the front friction shocks today. Thanks Bob & Dan for the corrective comments and ideas, never to old to learn a few new tricks. That link setup is nice and short and the shock does not mount to high. Should be no binding problem with the links. Some grinding & welding and we should have one side done tomorrow.
nice job on the shocks. i wish i`d have found that intake before you. i think you will be pleasently suprised with the new intake. my opinion is the less convoluted the induction is , the better the intake charge is. less chance of hesitation on a lower rpm hit. that is the theory behind the sidedraft install. i`m thinking about using 3 or 4 harley carbs after i get the car sorted out.
The Jalopy Journal
