I have been going nearly blind reading all of the different posts and I haven't even had a chance to get my car home yet. My car will be a work in progress and driven in between. I am wanting to lower my 50 tudor but am not going to be able to bag it for a while. I dont really want to cut up the frame or channel the body. From what I have read a coil chop or spindle flip will do wonders on the front and some lowering blocks on the back. I prefer a more level ride opposed to the tail dragger look. I have seen an easy 3" drop for a 1951 with body mount modifications is this also possible on a 50 without channeling the floor?
Assuming it is a '50 Ford, Aerostar front springs and lowering blocks in the back. About 2.5" in front easy. Whatever in the rear depending on block size. More front drop available by dropping the lower spring cup down with spacer and bolts. Forget the bags and channeling. Dave
I like this!! I would rather not bag or channel as to keep as many stock components as possible. So with the replacement springs and relocated cups the spindles can stay to maintain geometry correct? Just want to make sure I am following along. Dinger
Start with front springs and rear blocks to see if you like the look. If necessary, rebuild the suspension to ensure safe handling and to maintain alignment. Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I run Aerostar coils with a coil cut and 3" blocks. SIts right...rides rough. I need to invest in dropped uprights and swap to stock Aerostar coils...
My old 50 was lowered with cut front springs, spacer on the spring cup and 2" blocks on the rear and was almost too low, front crossmember was only about 3 1/2" off the ground.. Went on a club garage tour and one guy lived on a gravel road and I drug the mufflers on the high spots. I also did a 53 Merc the same way and both drove and rode well. Sold the Merc to a friend about 20 years ago and he is still driving it. and
I believe in K.I.S.S. until your locked in with where you want it to sit. The Aerostar springs are just Nutz and Boltz, can't get any easier than that. Same for rear blocks. If that don't work for ya your only out a little time and a few bucks. Channeling a shoebox is a Giant step and not for the beginner home builder. My advice there is to study long and hard before braking out the Sawzall. Many a project car has Died with good intentions and no home work. To channel a 50 Ford it includes a lot of work to the firewall, some steering adjusting and something to do with the rad/core support just to mention a few things. Yep, I've already done one of those.
Good advice here. There's zero reason to invest in bags if you are not looking to do any cutting. You'll never get it low enough to justify the added expense over a static drop anyway. Any bagged car you really like has been extensively cut on... body and frame. You may struggle to get the lowness you want out of a static drop without a bit of massaging. The contact points are easy enough to find when you get there.
Good tip, as a fabricator for 25 years and an engineering degree I also believe in KISS! Im not worried in the least about the amount of work or the ability, I just don't want to cut up a perfectly good car again! Already did that with a Chevelle, Nova, C-10 and a Camaro.
Thank you all for the info so far. I'll be on here often I'm sure and will post pictures as I get them!
Remember it’s not always about getting your car to sit lower- it’s about getting it to sit ‘right’ stance is a major factor in the overall appeal or ‘look’ of your car. The car has to be drivable and you don’t want anything hanging below the scrub line. Safety first and form follows function- but they can work together!
The old adage that, "A little is good so a lot must be better" ain't necessarily so. I once put 3 different drop suspensions on a car before I figured out that other people's opinions and 'advice' was all bullpucky. I like to actually drive my vehicles and not just stand around and look at them. Remember, all fads are just psychological mind games we play on ourselves to rationalize why we do stupid s**t. But whatever, I want you to enjoy your car the way you like it best.
Sounds like you have the credentials for the job. As to Channeling a 50 I get that too. The frame hangs below the rockers and the front crossmember hangs below the front bumper. Even with the Chassis way low the body is still off the ground more than you might want. Should you decide to just do it send me a P.M. and I'll try to explain what I did. Maybe it will help, maybe just help ya go a different direction.
I am going to spend a little time bench racing on it while finishing the scoot I have on the stand first. I just need to keep reminding myself that we're building a driver/cruise car not another pro-street trailer queen! This is a totally different world from what I'm used to, I like it! Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Back in the day they use to sell dropped spindle mounts for these cars...J C Whitney had them...Don't know if anyone still makes them...keeps the stock front springs...Some of the geezers on this site would know...Good luck with your project...
For those that might live a life in seclusion here is a current add from Google; Only $790.00 SKU: FMF 49-53FORD-52-53MERCURY W/STEERING ARMS Description: 1949-53 Ford and 1952-53 Mercury 2 1/2" Drop (Includes Required Dropped Steering Arms) Please Select Make
My 51 coupe had cut stock springs in front and 3" blocks in the rear. Driveshaft would bump the tunnel. Front end rode terrible. Replaced fronts with the afore mentioned Aerostar springs which gives it a 2.5" drop from stock, maybe more if the front stock springs haven't sagged. I cut the 3" rear blocks to 1.5" and it looks and drives WAY better! Aerostar springs are progressive wound and ride great. I put short urethane bump stops in front. I think my rear springs are sagging from years of use so the 3" blocks were too much. I didn't like stretching to look over the hood either. BTW, I flipped the shackles for the trip to San Francisco with the trailer. I like sleeping with my head a little raised up! Dave
Good ride. I also incorporated a mid 70s trans am/Z-28 1.25"stabilizer bar. Had to heat and drop the steering arms to clear everything. That effectively shortened them, giving faster steering. The thing drove like an early corvette. Downside is I had to rework the driveshaft hump and body crossmember for driveshaft clearance. It scraped on driveways and I could put my foot on the front bumper and bang the crossmember on the ground. It was LOW!
It’s seems to me the Aerostar nut and bolt thing is by far the easiest and cost effective way to bring these shoeboxes a little closer back down to mother earth. What year specifically are we talking for these Aerostars?
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