I'm in a dilemma. I have a 1940 Chrysler 241-L6 which I just got back from a machine shop and in the process of ***embling. To make a long story short, I'll get to the meat. On the side of the block where the oil pump is mounted there is a port which has a plunger and a spring inserted for oil pressure. The plunger is partially hollowed out with a broken off tap (My doings) while attempting to remove plunger. Does anyone know of a sure fire way to free up seized objects. P.B. Blaster is a good friend of mine but hasn't helped out much with this problem. I've heard of 1/2 Acetone and 1/2 A.T.F. This link shows an example of plunger...Fig.36 http://chrysler.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1941/Chrysler Shop Manual/html/07-126.htm ANY help would be greatly appreciated.
After you put/soak whatever penetrating solution you choose, try a little heat from a propane torch on the outside of the boss on the block it screws into.
Henry, thanks. I haven't heard to much of Kroil but after looking it up it looks like another avenue to take. I think I' try the 50/50 first and let it soak for a week and if necessary I my drop a piece of dry ice on plunger to get it to contract enough to wiggle it out. If not then I'll try the Kroil for a week and dry ice again. One way or another the plunger has to come out without drilling if at all possible. You asked for a pic. Were you asking a pic of the 1940 Chrysler Coupe or of the problem at hand? I'm new to using H.A.M.B. and I'm still learning how to navigate through this site.
Use 50/50 every day for a week, It'll work, Kroil's good too and the heat, the folks above are giving good advice. Maybe weld a long bolt to the stuck part and put a socket on it, weld heat and bolt head may do the trick.
You stuck it, atf/rust killer formula, isn't the answer...unless I'm missing something? Take things apart and chip it out.
I don't understand. This thing is just back from the machine shop and the oil pressure relief was not removed before to was machined? Anyway, I always try heat to unstick stuck stuff. Torch kinda heat.
The tool trucks, like Snap-On, have tools specially made for removing broken taps. One version I have used has prongs that fit into the vertical grooves in the tap shaft. Once the prongs are in the groove then you can turn the tap out since you have something you can hold and some leverage. Obviously, it is not as easy as I just made it sound. I have also used a punch, on occasion, to break taps into smaller pieces that I could remove and then get the remainder of the tap out. There is also a chemical (probably some type of Nitric acid)that is sold to remove broken taps by eating the cutting tips of the tap away allowing more "slop" to get the tap removed. The chemical has a fancy name like "Tap away" or "Tap out"but works best on taps broken in Aluminum and stainless steel. The best and most expensive way to remove a broken tap is to have a machine shop use a EDM to remove the tap.
with a broken tap, yes i have broke a few, I use the largest acetylene tip cleaners, or double headed nails, I can put in the broken tap grooves, far in as possible, across from each other, then I use a adjustable wrench (crescent) and unscrew wrench while lightly tapping on the block with a small ball-peen hammer near the broken tap.
Heat it just enough to sweat in a Crayola crayon . The wax will wick into the joint and it will free up this trick works on every thing never let's me down Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You can try a wire connector tool the tool used to remove wire connectors it has two pins I have used this to remove broken taps Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Gbones; That pic you posted is not for removing broken taps. It's for removing individual pins from electrical plugs. Comes in quite handy when cleaning up the firewall bulkhead plugs on 60's vintage stuff. Roger
I've used these with some success. I extended the "fingers" out a little so you can see how they would engage the grooves in the tap, the collar there in the middle needs to go right down as close to the tips as you can get once they're engaged. Kroil daily before trying this. Good luck!
Heat is really your best friend for "stuck" objects. At work I frequently have to remove seized fasteners and snapped off seized fasteners. I used to try to mill them all out, but discovered on one machine that was too big to fit in my machine, that welding another machine screw to the remants of the stuck one allowed it to screw right out like it had never seized up. Works so well that I have a string of six or seven previously seized screws, each welded to the last, sitting on my desk. I just kept using them to remove the next one, so it isn't the torque, but the heat. Moral of the story, I would find someone with a tig set-up and just walk the arc over the tip of your stuck plunger until it is really good and hot, then let it cool and see if it doesn't just fall out. Though I've also used dry-ice/acetone or liquid nitrogen to shrink parts before as well, I've never used it to remove stuck items. Could work.
Interesting, I've never seen one of those. I just save "worn out" carbide end mills for tap removal. High spindle speed, low feed rate and eventually that tap is gone. Done right the threads can usually be saved as well.
You might only use it one time but these are your salvation, was a machinist for thirty years and eleven of those were in the toolroom, we saved a lot of parts with those Walton tap extractors. Go at it slow, back and forth and use heavy oil to capture any metal bits.
Is it a tap, or a Eze-out that you broke off? Wondering if you didn't swell the plunger when you screwed whatever into it, forcing it against the side walls?
I wonder if you could find a way to put shop air into the oil p***age. You might be able to blow it out with enough pressure.
When you heat stuff, it excites the material on a molecular level, even though its expanded it generally likes to continue moving. Welding on broken fasteners when there's nothing left to grab works quite well because it adds heat but the molten metal also shrinks. Metal that's hot enough when cooled shrinks. Usually heating the offending object and cooling it 4-7 times shrinks it enough to let it fall out or thread out by hand. I showed my buddy these tricks and he was amazed. A set of left hand drills is also a pretty good way to get stuck and broken stuff out.
Thanks to @gbones32coupe suggestion to use a crayon and heat I was able to extract a tap that was broken off in the starter bolt hole, it was broken off about a half inch up into the hole, I melted the crayon than I put in the open hole above, heated the tap a couple of times and then used two scribes into the flutes and a tiny Crescent wrench to back them out, I didn't think it would work but I am darn glad it did, saved me from pulling the motor and blowing it out with a torch or taking it to a machine shop Many dollars saved, THANKS
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