seized parts

I've got a couple of forged steel parts that were bolted together for a few decades and have completely seized together... the bigger issue is that the two bolts which held the parts together are also seized inside.

I have tried an impact wrench, heat, a HUGE hammer, a week long bath in penetrating oil... and every combination thereof to get thes parts apart (or at least the bolts out), with no success at all.

The bolts are damaged and absolutely must be removed.

Can anyone offer me some suggestions, advice, or black majic solution that will help me solve this problem?

Thanks in advance for any ideas that you can offer.

Cheers,
Scott

 

A photo of the parts would be a big help.

 

You got it...

 

What the parts are will help and pics too.

 

Looks like you beat the **** out of the bolts ,probably have to cut of the mushroomed ends and then put into a press to get apart.

 

i would start by cutting off the nut end of the bolts, if they aren't already mushroomed they will be. heat the housing. put the part on a solid surface and drive it out with a punch that's a little smaller than the bolt. did you try a long breaker bar to get it to turn?

 

They say a mix of acetone and auto trans fluid make a good penetrant.

 

The parts are from the suspension of an old truck I'm restoring. The two upper arms of the rear suspension (one has already been removed) join together at a fulcrum (that smaller piece with the big hole in it). The fulcrum has a ball joint which connects to the rear axles.

Yep, I cut down the bolt (as it was already damaged) so that whatever came free first (the bolt or fulcrum) would have less distance to move to come apart (and so that the bolt would be less likely to bend when I beat the **** out of it with a hammer)... I wasn't too worried about messing up the bolt as it was already ruined. I figured I could cut off the mushroom when I got something to come free.

tb33anda3rd,
Yep, tried a breaker bar and an impact wrench... no movement with either.

Well, I guess I'll get to looking for someone with a press I can borrow tomorrow and see what I can do with that.

Thanks,
Scott

 

I agree cut off at the surface abd use a press to punch it out

 

Center punch the bolt and drill it with 1/4 inch first....now go up in size until your close to the edge. It will break and fall out. Little bit of time but try to keep it real straight.

 

I would try to hammer a cold chisel inbetween the 2 pieces while applying heat to the part that has the 2 bolts p***ing through.
heat and pressure and few good wacks with a hammer ?

 

I work in sewage plant and I use a product called aerokroil that is amazing. After the mushroom part is removed soak a day and apply some heat and I have had real good luck. Sewer gas is brutal on steel

John Mc

 

+1

Heat is your friend.

 

I agree with using heat. Heat the bolts up cherry red & then let them cool completely. Hammer & a punch should knock them apart easily then. the heat will break the rust bond & allow them to come apart.

 

G'day, I was taught that you are to never heat suspension components, especially forged items as it will weaken the part. That said, drilling the bolt is probably the least likely to damage the components.

ms

 

Get it red hot and push some parafinn wax onto the hot piece so that it goes into the crevices. I used this process today removing some doors on my 53 Skylark. it worked on ten of twelve bolts and two twisted off.

 

Damn,guess we can`t trust all those dropped axles floating around on here. Everyone,send them to me for proper disposal.

 

X2 on the heat and paraffin - I have found any candle wax to work, regardless of whether you drill or press it apart.

For that other guy, you can heat forged parts no problem. It's how they are formed.

 

I would just soak the whole thing in penetrating fluid for several days then use a press to push the bolts out.

 

Yep, Hotrod got it, once heated and slight movement is had, wax is the Bomb, wont burn off like WD, Old timers say bee's wax is even better and I do tend to agree, but none the less Heat is your friend here... reminds me of a time a girlfriend of mine was at a shop in phoenix getting work done on a BMW from wny. they were going to replace here K member because they could not free up the lower control arm, I said What? where's your torch's, we don't have any... places where you don't have salt to deal with why would you... You guys have no idea how good you have it!! Good Luck

 

i think a map torch would be all the heat you would need. i think the problem with cast steel and heat is that when you weld it it ****s the heat away too quick. this will make for a weak brittle weld. To weld it people pre heat the part first so it will cool at a less rapid pace. im not sure it this would apply to heating the bolts, although you may want to heat a larger area. I would also like someone said and use wax, it works great. Heat the bolt heads then around the surounding area, get some wax in there,let her sit a while tap it with a hammer a few times, then a breaker bar. She should at least think about moving then, but if its still stuck dunk it in ATF and acetone in a bucket for a week. stuck bolts can be a real pain huh.

 

When you heat op your cast parts, let them cool off slowly. Heat expands, so heat the cast parts, not the bolts.