waaaaaaaa i love the fact that the Dan said it is to fast for the cl*** isnt that the point to be faster than the other guys Good for you bill on building a cl*** topping car and then getting kicked out because you spent the time the money and the effort to win i'de high 5 you if you were here tk
Hey thanks! I was glad to do it for you and I am happy to know you have them to keep for the history of your track roadster...eer, lakes modified....aahhhh, speedster....mmmm, car? All kidding aside, I had fun watching you race it.
Bought an oldtimer trailer for the '30 chev front axle under it. When I took it apart I found the wire wheels were 16 inch five hole Ford. Then I found out the hubs and drums were Ford. It had roller bearings. I didn't know you could run Ford stuff on Chev spindles.
There is always humor in life. The first time I was told, 3 years ago, I could no longer run in that cl*** because my gas tank (a deicer tank from a WW2 B24 bomber) was too small I was told by a representative from the Ruling no, change that to governing body, you know the guys that make and enforce the rules that "After all, it is just for fun" and he also advised me that even if I replaced the gas tank they had a few more things that they could and would question.
Crazydaddyo- Oddly enough This weekend I was at a swap meet and found a mag. It looks like the one you pictured but worse looking. How do you tell if it turns the right way? Is there a manual on the care and feeding of one of these? How to Mount a drive gear to it? etc? etc? I took the Cap off. The gears inside have alignment marks. ??? It was on a trailer with a bunch of farm stuff.The price was right. Thanks for any light you can shed. - Norm
Bill I know if you could build a second racer it would be faster than the first... They don't or they would quit messing with you Can you sofen the rear spring to get more rear transfer and get more traction Staymac in Compton Cal will Teflon coat the spring in semi-gloss black It far better than polishing the spring It doesn't heat up on the trailer ride or drive to the event This means you can set the shocks up in testing and that's that..... There was a tire capper in So Cal Caldwell they had some very soft rubber Bandag was another outfit that would cap a tire fot you with some soft stuff I once used some Chinese tires that were soft as hell..... You need a little portable SHORE tester....... with this you can go into the tire dealer ....even Pep Boys and test the tires hardness ...... http://www.instron.com/wa/applications/test_types/hardness/shore.aspx Unlike the fuel tank they can't see how soft the tires are..... Here's what I found on Ebay http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?LH_Loca...13&_sc=1&_sop=15&_sticky=1&_stpos=98013&gbr=1 Next you need a tree diameter tape measure to string the tires and inflate them to the same outside measurement Lasts thing is making different discs for the shocks of differing material allowing you to change the rate..... between the Teflon rear spring and the softer shocks you can tune the cars launch Next thing is to see that the drive shaft or torque tube doesn't hit the tunnel somewhere...... you don't want to touch that will send the load to the front Just thinking from far away I hope this helps ....
Well, it's mobile................MoT'd taxed and Registered........now i need to iron the bugs out........getting there all to slowly. . .
Bluto, Thanks for the input. I'm considering switching to 15" cause I can get more tread width and not have to go to a larger diameter. It seems that the car was only turning 3640 so a little smaller diameter might help. A friend of mine once built a "Sportsman" cl*** car for 1/4 mile dirt and the driver complained of a funny noise in the exhaust sound and no gain in RPM's just before the end of the straight. I realized the valves were floating so we found a pair of "caps' 5/8" larger in diameter for the rear.. Problem solved. I went to the ebay page you linked to and there were several durometer's so I going to bid on one and run around the pits checking tires. That should stir something up!
Opinions wanted! Which do you think, or better yet, actually know, is the better clutch, long style, or diaphragm. Speaking of a 10" clutch.
Borg and Beck milti disc is the best you can run a small dia clutch and get more surface area... I don't really like spring type clutches. Diaphram type work faster and are easier in your foot
I prefer the diaphragm, because of the lighter pedal pressure. Just have to be careful not to flex the diaphragm too far and over center it. Instantly cuts the amount of grip in half--not good. Herb Kephart
I prefer the diaphragm, The later "high Diaphragm" if possible. On this subject: What is the best method for centering and drilling a flyweel for a new clutch. You wouldn't want it "off".
Best is a rotary table or chuck on a milling machine. Or maybe I'm showing my age. A CNC machine would probably be better as long as you know the bolt circle.
I have a fixture for my rotary table that is drilled and tapped for the ford flange. I have had to bush both of my AL flywheels. I'll show my age, the newest machine in my shop was made in 1972. I had a machine made in 1918, a 3.5" capacity 4 spindle Cone Automatic. It was set up on a 3" pulley job that was still active when my son sold it to a s**** dealer.
I never messed with a Banger before, Any suggestions as to what manual to buy? My Coupe is all there but P/o cut all the wires under the hood and out of the bottum of the collumn. Motor turns over freely.Think it will be cool to get it running. Save the other ch***is for a roadster.Thanks
I got some header and intake flanges today if any one needs any feel free to PM me. All most done with a intake for a HAMBER...Now I have to make my self one.
Can you read anything on the name plate? Better quality magneto's will have a lag angle number on the plate and that will be how much the impulse retards the spark to facilitate starting with out the engine kicking back and damaging the starter drive. The Wico X, according to my research, only has a lag angle between 9 and 12 degrees. But you can gain a little more by advancing the static timing to a point where it just doesn't kick back. There is no timing curve with this type of magneto. When the RPM's reach a certain point usually preset any where from 250 to 500 RPM's the impulse kicks out and your at max advance. In the early days of hot rodding or racing it was found that a direct connection to the driving gear with a shaft mounted gear would cause the front bearing on the magneto to fail. So they used a flexible coupling. Now most are probably machined for a close alignment on the particular engine the were installed on. The Wico X was designed for use on tractors and stationary engines of which a lot were early Ford engines.. They will eventually work loose on a softer cast Al head. The side drive or shelf type of will usually have a boss for a support bearing to take the load off of the magneto bearing. The setup will look race but your car probably won't go any faster. Early battery powered distributors had problems at higher RPM's and the points would bounce and as a magneto produces a hotter more reliable hotter spark the faster it turns it was used. But with the development of better components for the distributors the magnetos are used more for the "look" On my engine I have a stock model "B" distributor and I red line the engine at 4 grand and it will do this all day long with out a pop or a fart. When it went through the lights at approx. 3640 RPM's it was going 82 MPH with an ET of 15.9. I rely more on the inherent torque in the "A" than high RPM's. But that is me!
Hey Paul... you can get all your new wires and tune up parts at A&L in New Hartford, Ct. I dont have my cell with me but if you need the # PM me.
Found a Super Winfield head today, has 7-5 marking stamped between the center head bolt and the flat center ridge. Does that mean 7.5 to 1 compression ratio? Any help appreciated, thanks guys.
Thanks i"ll get ahold of you when iam ready. have to shuffle some stuff around. new shed will be here Fri.Going to put the roller frame in there, and the coupe in garage
Yes, it means that is what it was when it was shipped by Winfield, but I have 3 cast iron Winfield heads and all have been milled by some one.
I read that Al p***ed away this summer. Who is taking care of the place now? If you can p*** along the info via PM. I'd like to stop there and pick up some tune-up stuff while I am in CT.
You better stop and see me...I an only 15 miles or so away from A&L. Bob will hook you up he is a great guy and has been there for a long time.
The Jalopy Journal
