Technical *** September 2015 Banger Meet - Shadows Getting Longer in the North ***

I have established what my engine can do on a hillclimb or in the quarter mile. I didn't build the engine for lakes type racing nor am I asking for a timing slip from the lakes. I just would seriously like to see just how well the Lion head would/could perform in the venue's where I have run. I know of a fellow that has spent an estimated $ 20,000 + to just barely break 100 with custom flat head on the lakes.

 

just from my foot & butt it feels much stronger than a Snyder . no time slip , just the feel in my butt

 

Small blue car to the left was the first car to gain entry into the Hop Up Century Club. Engine didn't cost anywhere around $20,000. And there was no discussion of which head to buy. One thing I did want to examine was the twin plugs. I didn't think they made it faster. But I still wanted to see. Both plugs, either plug. Same speed 113.7 MPH. But it was interesting and didn't cost any thing except the extra distributor and the gears.

 

how big are the injectors

 

Those were off of a '97 Ford 4.6 V8. I think they were around 2 3/8. Really don't remember. I also used these from a Suzuki 750. and a two bbl from a Ford F150 with a 351W. They all ran about the same. The F150 set were on longer tubes and stuck out in front of the engine.

 

thank you . I see they all were high pressure fuel ............. steve

 

This being Hilborn type mechanical fuel injection, fuel pressures run around 40-50 psi.

 

thank you ............ steve
interesting stuff you have

 

Just checking in with this update on the engine.

 

That's going in here

 

very nice work on the speedster

 

Installed my lion head and b distributor yesterday. I am still working in the heat cycles and retorquing of the head bolts. I need to set the timing better or at least verify where it's at. It starts and runs but won't take any throttle. It ran great before I swapped head and distributor so I think the dual b carbs are at least close.
Anyhow should I get a nurex timing scale and set initial timing first? What should it be set to w a b distributor. I've read that they offer anywhere from 15 to 18 degree of advance. I am familiar w setting timing in a small block w a dial back light. Was thi king of using the same process for the banger. I have read no more than 30 degrees total advance also. I would like to stay around 28 since TDC or 0 isn't exact unless I put a piston stop in it and rotate it back and forth to find the exact point. Which I will do bht just want to get fairly close this afternoon.
Engine is a stock a motor .080 over dual b carbs on a vortex intake. Has iron lion head and a renners b distributor in it. Car is fairly light ad it's a t body on an a chassis.

 

Go here for timing with B distributor. All you ever wanted to know and then some. If you are using an A timing cover the timing pin will get you close enough. I wouldn't think you would want to start with more than 24 degrees full advance. I usually set it to be all in around 1500. With a B distributor I start with 5 degrees BTDC I use the lighter B distributor springs from Mel at FS Be careful with Babbit bearings. The combination of higher compression and too much advance is very destructive to babbit lower ends. My car only goes 1/4 mile at a time. lol
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/timingiseverything.htm

 

if you have an FS self advance , bring rpm up so the dist is at full advance , set it about 28 . have fun .
finally got mine running this morning ........... steve

 

What was the verdict on the oil pump?

 

oil pump was ok . damn mechanic (me) had his head up his butt ...... all is good .......... steve

 

Hi, can you tell us what you did wrong? I'm sure most of us that tried to help would like to know.

 

back ...........

 

jimski , so good to see you !

yes , I hooked my oil lines up backwards at the remote filter . apparently it doesn't like that . lots of work for a simple fix ............ steve

 

Yes Bluto, Glad to see you back!

Yeah the leak back valve will restrict flow for sure! Hey, I've done it once also. It was after an oil change. I went to prime the oil filter with the pump in a can and had the drain plug off the pan and what I thought was the return line plumbed into the side cover. I ran that can for a long time waiting for oil gauge to show pressure and for oil to come out the drain holes so I knew the crankshaft was also flushed with new oil. But the oil pressure gauge didn't move and nothing came out the drain plug hole . It didn't take me long to realize my .50" rubber Transdapt Oil line was crossed so I swapped it and then it worked fine.
I then stamped a P for pump and a C for cover on the big brass fittings.

Thanks, for sharing that with us!
Joe

 

I have trouble seeing in dark places as my filter adapter is marked . just getting old .......

 

I know about getting old and seeing in dark places. Have you looked into Cataract surgery? I was in at 6am back on the street at 9am. Went from couldn't pass the eye test for drivers license renewal even with glasses, to 20-30. No fun but it sure worked.

 

I totally understand! that's why I keep a pair of seeing glasses and a flashlight really close.
Heck, sometimes I have to remove the piece and take it into the sun, just to get a better look!

 

I have other issues that cause "floaters & dry eye" . not fixable ...... thanks .. steve

 

I have issues with the floaters too. My eye doctor said just make friends with them because they aren't going away!! Glad you figured out the oil problem.

 

me too . my son showed up & he can still see

 

Gentlemen, can you help a guy out?

I know the braintrust here can solve this dilemma in a dash, but can you tell me what I have here?





My searching indicates:

Mobile-friendly - Dual Point Distributor Series 23 Mallory 2301105 LH Rotation - Adjustable Mechanical Advance - Ford Model A - Single ...

But in side it clearly indicates dual points...



...and the drive shaft is waaaay short! The mounting boss appears correct.



Is this (a) a modified Model A replacement or (b) is it something else entirely with a Model A tag?? If (a) is correct, can it be returned to its former glory? If (b), can it be made to work? What would either take...money, time, parts?

 

what does the inside of the short shaft look like ? is it slotted ? it looks like the d/p housing maybe to long . looks like it may work , but need more info & pix . the shaft is held on by a pin which can be removed & a shaft can be fitted .
............ steve

 

I make lamps out of those, send it to me.

 

LOL send the damn thing to & ill make it work !