Technical ***September 2016 Banger Meet - Already?***

What head gasket should I use for a "police" head? Do I even need a special gasket or does a standard A gasket work. Id like to use Best gasket if possible.

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Finally getting serious about getting my banger in my dodge coupe and getting it drivable.Working on swaping the
Volvo m40 trans behind it.Will see how all of this works out.

 

Not sure of the best gasket but not a standard A, it has different shaped chambers. I would bin off the head bolts and use studs and nuts for better clamping if your going down that road.


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That's what I was thinking. Different shape. But I don't see one for the police head. I already have studs and nuts.

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I'm running a lion 3 with the "best" head gasket , used it on my police head also . best is the brand name . most all vendors have it ..........

 

Hi Burl

I've used Volvo gearboxes for many years in many things. Only problem was with GMC 302 .... you could break em driving slowly around the block. So much torque gears just spit teeth ease.

 

Its just a stock model a banger right now.Should be less hp than the b18 it was behind before.Its kind a temporary till I get the original fast four rebuilt and back in it.The internals of the m40 look as strong as the original 3 speed that was behind it.Im hoping it will be better to have a 4 speed with syncros for driving rather than the original 3 speed.I had to convert something to open drive at some point as I have a ford 9 inch rear end for the rear differential.

 

It's not about power of the engine but more about torque....... this has a M-45 gearbox and a couple hundred German Henkel HP

I lit the carpet up just after this photo.....

 

I shortened the shock links because , if I remember correctly, the angle was different with the later stuff as the 32 -34 perches are tAller and the shock mounts in the same place on frame same as A. You will lose travel of the arms shortening shock action. I felt shocks were useful as I live on a dirt road.

 

I have a stroker ground on a B crank which is drilled. I run A rods and find the B crank to be , seemingly, more ductile than the A . Tha damn thing bent every which way but didn't break. Through a misunderstanding the mains were ground to A size. So that is how I have run it. But, I would also state that you better build an engine to run under 4 grand, in fact, don't even try for 4 cause **** will happen. If you feel the need for high RPM's invest in a 5 main with a girdle or one of the new A blocks.

 

I never go over 3k , normally run at 2k to keep my motor running , to much $$$ to ****ter

 

I lit the carpet up just after this photo.....

jimski I like the lil car . bet you had fun

 

ALWAYS!

Have fun

 

9 " diffs eat horsepower

 

Ok,at this point id just be happy to be able to drive around my property or neighborhood under its own power.Will improve and change after that.

 

All good, I speak from experience, I was surprised to find that out years ago myself, cost a bunch of time and effort which had to be redone....and it is hard enough to find horsepower in a banger as it is...

 

Hey guys, I'm starting to get the banger bug. Actually I've had it for awhile, but it's getting stronger. Is there any "Official" thread on the HAMB, (besides the monthly Banger Meet threads) for banger powered cars? You know, like the Official 40's and 50s's hot rod threads, and the official Model A Roadster or Model A's on 32 rails threads? There seems to be these "Official" threads for just about everything else. I've searched for one, but couldn't find one. I'd really like to just look at a bunch of banger powered cars, roadsters, coupes, Tudors, etc. I'd like to see the different ways guys have set them up, but a search isn't coming up with anything. Maybe I need to start one?

 

I think that thread is out there. I may have even started it. It didn't get much traction.

Crazy daddy yo has a thread too. But I can't figure out how to link to my phone.

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Here's the one that Hitchhiker started.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-4-banger-hot-rod-picture-thread.997051/#post-11235156

 

Hey guys!! I'm planning to run only one carb on the Banger!! Specs on the engine are!! Larger intakes, model B grind cam with unknown specs!! Model B Head!! Lightened flywheel (50 pounds) History said the engine was on a dirt track racer!! But not an oval dirt track, long distances on country roads!!
What do you thing? I have a Ford 8ba model carb! Would be enough? Want to ***ist at some local shows and in the weekend goes for a ride!
Thanks in advance!



Ok, accidentally put my finger on the third picture, no worries had a beauty dual intake!!![emoji2]
Ain't a Rat lover!

 

Volvo m40 trans to AA bell housing completed

 

So what works better but has hydraulic brakes ?

 

Thank you, I hadn't seen that. Some great pic's there, would love to see more though!

 

How about these?
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1940s-period-correct-hot-rods.422177/
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/prewar-hot-rods.863831/
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/30-roadster-on-duece-rails-project-it-begins.311375/
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-a-coupster-on-32-rails.335443/
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/banger-powered-cars-post-your-pics-here.281056/
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-ford-roadster-pic-thread.300356/
Hope some of these help.

 

Yeah! Good stuff here, lot's to pour over. Thank you!

 

If you are on a budget and not being strictly traditional go for something relatively common where you live...just match up ratio, atud pattern, width and wheel compatibility/availability. The issue with 8" and 9" Ford diffs is the extreme offset of the pinion which while it is strong also is fairly inefficient compared to the later Ford diffs ..(8.8 "style ) which they used after 1986.
I do not know what what your build plan is or what rear axles are common in your area..... I am in New Zealand, it is even harder to find early parts here than in the USA...and expensive.
If you just want a rear axle to make your car drive with the Volvo open drive gearbox, I would look for something with about the same ratio as a Model A ...say between 3.3:1 and 3.7:1, and around the same width as the original axle. You want something which will handle Model A torque as opposed to high horsepower, and the stud pattern would ideally match whatever you are using on the front....
something which will fit the kind of wheels you have or can get easily in the right size ...probably 15s or 16s .
Maybe one from an S10 with a bigger motor...(V6? ) or a Ford Ranger ? Diesel motors and bigger gas motors tend to have a higher diff ratio. I know some Suzuki 4wd s have the same stud pattern as a Model A , but I do not know what ratio the diffs are.
If you want keep the Model A wheel stud pattern and have open drive you could use complete rear axle from a 42-47 pickup, (they are already open drive) ,but most are 4.11 to 1 ratio, you can buy new gears etc or find some from a V8 car diff...37-48 . You could use the original Model A axle or any Ford V8 car axle up to 48 with 40-48 hydraulic brakes and an open drive conversion.
Front brakes from 40-48 will match but need spacers to use Ford wire wheels. They will go onto Model A stubs with some work...look in the archives for bearing numbers and adapters, or you can fit the stubs which come with the brakes to the Model A axle. F1 front brakes have the same stud pattern, and they are self energizing Bendix style, but are 11" not 12" .

 

Auburn supercharged banger at The Hotrod Hillclimb


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who makes the steering adapter for model T steering wheel to model A steering shaft ? I bought one awhile back but cant remember where ............ thanks .. steve

 

So what works better but has hydraulic brakes ?

I'm using a set of 1942 ford brakes , simple & work great .

 

I haven't bailed on the banger, but life interfered with my schedule some. I know I'm going waay far away from traditional with a Miata based T (DOHC, IRS, EFI and many more all-caps letter groups) but my heart is in the right place. So here's my first work-in-progress pic:
Since it's independent in back, I figure it might as well be IFS too. Preliminary testing indicates I'll need to use something more robust than cardboard for the front suspension hangars, but time will tell.