Setting Engine Angle?

Alright you guys, here's a technical question for you!

I have a 1946 Chevy PU with a (don't shoot!) Mustang II front suspension. I wanted this suspension for the ride, safety, and stance it gives. I am running a 283 SBC with a Muncie 4-speed.

My question....I am about to install engine mounts. Optimally, at what angle do I mount the engine (front to rear)?

I have fabbed a trans crossmember to mount to the underside of the frame that puts the transmission mounting surface 1 inch below the bottom of the frame, but it is only clamped in place.

Presently, the bottom of the engine block (not the oil pan) is pretty much level with the top of the upper suspension towers (if that's what you call them).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I know there is someone out there that has done this a time or two.

 

This is super easy. Put the intake on (you can just place it on, no need for complete install), and put a level on the carb mount. The motor should lean back a few degrees so that the carb mounts flat. If you're having trouble with clearances (which you shouldn't because you can get any oil pan or exhaust for a sbc), you can lean the motor back a little further.

 

I'm trying to remember what I set my A at and I think it's about 7 degrees (might be three) down bubble. Sorry I've got the CRS disease today.

 

But this requires the final wheel/tire package and a level floor, right? And the front suspension must be at the "final" setting?!?!

 

Ultimately you want the carbuerator sitting level when the truck is sitting at ride height. However there is some flexibility, consider how boats are set up and also take into consideration the rest of your drivetrain ie; drive shaft and rear end pinion angle.

 

Speaking of pinion angle, doesn't it have to be set at the same angle as the tailshaft housing on the transmission?

 

Just be aware that using this method may require that your pinion angle be adjusted if it is too far out of acceptable tolerance. If not, you may have some funky vibration issues. Pinion angle isn't too hard to adjust on a leaf spring pickup, which I'm pretty sure a 46 Chevy is. However, since you are currently working out your engine mounting, you may want to consider installing it a few degrees +/- off of carburetor level so you don't have to mess with the angle. Read this....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182684&highlight=pinion+angle

 

Jesus,did you get all that?I was ok with everything is in line then it went Chinese;could you tell me in dumb *** language?

 

magnetic level on the starter mount down in the rear 3 degrees.
rearend can be up or down 3 just as long as they are like angles. The trick is to not go too far but always have an angle the same. Ujoints dont like to run straight either thats why the angle.
Dave

 

You need at least a 1/2 degree of u-joint working angle or they wont work(rotate) and wont last long either. Usually if the engine is 3 down the pinion should be 3 degrees up. The angles need to offset each other.
Anywhere from 3-4 degrees should be plenty.

 

Is it safe to ***ume the transmission shaft is parallel with the crankshaft? If so, any machined surface, either vertical or horizontal, could be used to determine engine angle, right?

 

Yes. When checking for driveline angles I use the u-joint cups, they just have to be facing towards the floor. Or the the driveshaft isn't on use the pinion flange.

 

I always advise to have the pinion within one degree of engine/transmission angle when using a one piece driveshaft. If any difference, pinion angle one degree closer to horizontal.
Set your ch***is at intended rake before setting above angles.

 

http://www.iedls.com/ptsetup.html


this is a really great source of information that we used to supply with every rear four bar kit we sold (now we reference the link in the instructions).

Having the frame at ride height/ angle is key, like someone already said. The anti dive angle on your MII top hats has nothing to do with powertrain angle, so don't worry about referencing those. Pretty much any machined surface is ok for leveling off of - top of the intake, bell housing surface, etc. It's not so important to get the carb level (how the heck would we get through the mountains?!) as it is to offset the angles of the pinion and transmission. 3* seems to be the most common angle here, and that's what we always used.

Here's a set-up article we did for hot rod hotline: http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html/motor_mount_tech.php