Technical Setting pinion depth without a pinion depth tool

One more question...

Got the bearings honed so the slip on.

When you use the setup bearings, do you install the new races, or use the old ones?

If using the old races do you sand them down some so the slip in and out easy too?

 

I've always put the new races in.

 

I'd use the new races also, may help to keep the tolerances closer, then the bearing itself will be the only tolerance difference....


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Here is an example of a new pinion with the depth marked on it, it's new Richman set for a Chrysler 8 3/4". From ring gear centerline to top of pinion is 2.767". The other number is the set number that matched the ring gear. I also found the top of the pinion wasn't true flat, using a dial indicator, I was able to spin the pinion and find the high and low spot, then the average of the two is where I measured from. When I final assembled it with a press on bearing, the measure didn't change at all from the honed out set up bearing. During setup, Chrysler called for 30 inch pounds to rotate the pinion, so no crush sleeve, just tightened the used pinion nut till I had 30 inch pounds of rotation. Straight bar across the carrier cap flanges, a snap gauge, and a dial caliper. Tooth pattern was right on first time.

 

Okay...spent most of the day on this....

1. Set the crush sleeve at around 30 inlbs...(torque wrench reads 27 one way 30 the other).

After installing everything it now reads over 40 inlbs...is that an issue?

2. Hows the pattern? I think it looks good in gear....a little off in reverse?

 

The pattern look's good enough to run. What are you running for backlash?

 

It is dead on .008"

 

Drag on the pinion will go up with the seal and new bearings. It should loosen up pretty quickly. Pattern looks good.

 

This is the ticket! I used to have them for all integral rear ends. Pro stock cars in the day used Dana rears. Had them for setup bearings for the pinion and carrier.

 

This has been weighing on my mind since I assembled this thing....

Should the new carrier shims equal the same width as the factory shims?

When I assembled it with the factory carrier shims, it was so tight I had to use a BIG pry bar to get ilthe carrier back out.

I had 0 backlash at that point. When I used the shims and put it back together, they are snug. The carrier still requires a prybar to pop it out. But not near as much force.

I guess im curious if it will loosen up with the new bearings and I should have matched the total factory shim width.

 

Same here

 

Yeah, the carrier bearing need a preload too. If you can get the carrier in without beatin' the crap out it, it's not too tight. If it falls in its too loose.
On the backlash, it's a preference thing, but if it is a new set, I like to set 'em up on the tight side of the range. It'll open up a few thou after running.

 

You aren’t necessarily going to have exactly the same thickness shim packs with the new set up as with the factory. Once I have backlash set where I want it, on final assembly, I shoot for a tight fit to drop the carrier back in. I might have to tap with a rubber mallet to drop the carrier and shim packs in. Yes, it will loosen up a little after running , but that is why you want the preload of that tight fit to begin with. ALSO that’s why it’s important to make sure everything is clean. A little piece of grit in the shim pack for example will throw off the feel of the preload. I make sure bearings, races, shim packs are spotless on assembly. HTH

 

Thanks for giving me peace of mind gentlemen.

Spec is 0.008-0.012. I am at 0.008 right on the nose.

I had to tap the shims in with a mallet, so I feel comfortable now.

 

Just for future reference, when checking your pattern, it gives a lot cleaner pattern if you put resistance on the pinion yoke while spinning the carrier. I usually have one of my kids put gloves on and squeeze the pinion yoke as I spin the carrier with a wrench on the ring gear bolts. If working alone I have wound a rag around the yoke as tight as I can get it to put resistance between the ring and pinion. It makes a lot cleaner pattern.

 

I have a 1/2" thick piece of teflon I wedge between ring gear and the housing when checking the pattern. Anything that will hold the gear as you turn it will work, you can't just spin the pinion with the ring gear freewheeling.

 

I’ve only done a few rear set ups, but always held the carrier and rotated by the pinion. I figured that simulated driving.