Anybody have a step by step on setting pre-load using a solid spacer and shims on a ford 9"? I have an inch pounds dial type torque meter and one that goes to 250 ft/lbs. I really don't want to take the ring gear out. I have heard this is the way to do it. Any way to compensate the inch/pounds to account for the ring gear left in. Please include the correct torque specs. Thanks in advance firemanjer
I don't think you can do it with the ring gear in, the idea of the preload is to set the amount of drag at the pinion bearings? Right?
you should be able to remove the pinion support from the center section,leaving the ring gear set up,chuck the pinion support in the vise and,if i remember right, set the pre-load at about 20 inch pounds,(with out the pinion seal)then pull the yoke ,install the seal,reinstall the yoke with the same shims,and reinstall the pinion support.
I know there is usualy a different amount of preload depending on whether the bearings are new or used. Make sure you use the correct value for the bearing.
For most i've done, I don't have the exact numbers for a 9", but old bearings are 6-15 in lbs and new bearings 15-29 in lbs of torque to rotate the pinion. On a properly set up r & p I've seen it add 10 in lbs. If the pig is already out of the housing, I would check and record backlash and mark the adjusting caps than remove carrier and ring gear than reset after the pinion is done .
Set the impact to kill. The nut will steadily turn at a consistent rate and there will be a point it noticeably bottoms out. Go 1/8-1/4 turn past that. Set up properly that's about where they all end up. Of course you're just guessing unless the carrier is removed, but if you must guess, that's a good one. Good luck
So you can take the pinion support out and re-install it w/o affecting the ring gear setup? When it's out you torque the pinion nut down and find the bearing load and the pinion torque?
If you are going to go with a solid bearing spacer instead of the Ford crush spacer do not preload the bearings at all. If you preload with a true solid spacer the bearings will heat up and get tighter then they will get hotter and tighter and then the pinion comes out the front of the third member or if you are "lucky" you will only come to a real sudden stop. A solid spacer cannot adsorb any heat without getting longer and therefore applying more preload to the bearings where as the Ford crush space has a certain amount of "spring" in it and will adsorb the extra heat and not over load the bearings. If you do the solid space be sure to make them from steel. I would usually set the solid spacers so that the pinion had about .0005 to .0015 end play. I was working with Lenco aluminum 9 inch carriers, and the Lenco large bearing pinion carrier. I have had several rear ends that ran the Daytona 24 hour and Sebring 12 hour without problems. Just my two cents worth. Rex
you got it rex,no peload on solid spacer,15 in lbs on a crush spacer,.0010 end play on the pinion, sounds like firemanjar never did a 9 in,and should let someone do it who knows how,not ripping on you fireman..............richie...............
How bout this then. I guess I'm creating more work than I need. All I started out to do was change the seal. Then I have people telling me to change the crush sleeve and I read about a solid spacer in place of the sleeve. Should I just put the seal in and same crush sleeve. I just wanted to freshen up this diff before I bolt it in a new housing. Suggestions. Richie in uncharted territory for sure
I missed the solid spacer comment in the original post too. I would just put the new crush sleeve in and adjust preload to the used bearing spec then set the ring gear back in and adjust the collars for the right backlash. Alot of people just slap these things togather blindly and somehow it works...You know the type..no real knowledge of rear axles but they get a new ge****t and 5 minutes later they are driving it..?????Not my kind of luck....I prefer setting it up right,that way it will last for you. Rex seems to be wealth of knowledge on this.
yes, you can change the seal,just put a air gun on the nut and take off the yoke,get old seal out new seal in, yoke back on,sent the nut back in ,easy on the inpact gun until it seats,then give it a good burp,and you should be good...........richie.........
Last rear I did was for my digger - since I would be sitting directly on the entire ***embly I decided that the experts at Richmond would be my guide - I followed their instructions to the "T". I used a custom made solid spacer installed with a custom pinon bearing ***embly (extra bearings) and preloaded it as reccomended. So far so good. YMMV http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
Uhh, well, uhhhh.......NO. This is NOT the correct way to set up pinion bearings....not for crush sleeves, not for solid spacers. -Bigchief.
I stole the yoke off my 411 traklock 9" to use on my 456 locker, can I put a used yoke back in the 411 rear and torque it to spec or will I need to replace the crush sleave. I'm laid off and could use the gas mileage till I get back to work.
big chief,i know thats not the way,fireman just wants to change the seal, easy way out for him,since he's not real good with 9in rear ends.....richie............
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