This may or may not correlate to our truck stuff, but years back I measured a Pinto manual vs Mustang II power brake pedal (same braking system) Power pedal was 4 to 1 manual was 7 to 1. The booster takes up some pedal travel.
If you need to lengthen the pedal overall, keep the ratio A/B the same... that should maintain the movement of the stock pedal. Example A= 2" and B= 12" but you want the overall to be 24", then make A = 4" and B= 24". That way the rod movement pressing into the master cylinder will be the same as stock, and the pedal movement will be same as stock too. If you just lengthen the pedal at the bottom without keeping the ratios, then you will have to push the pedal too far towards the floor to activate the master cylinder.
Oh, and make the pedal from 3/8" thick (or better) material. 1/4" is not enough, it will flex and bend.
Ah. of course. Thanks guys. I guess I was getting lost in thinking there was a ratio in the idler, and I guess there could be? - and would have to be considered in any alterations... JML
Doing it the old fashion way. Using the anvil tip was the only thing small enough to hammer form the tight corners. Just have to make the other side
59 impala gauges on the right, 54 ford meteor guage in the middle. Using these for a little style inspiration Slowly cutting and t******* to take some shape I got the f450 donor cluster wedged in Lines look nice from the outside Seems all right to me. I've never really liked the look of a modern cluster swaped into an older vehicle. To combat this I'm working on getting a custom gauge face plate made with font and color to replicate the factory Coe gauges . It will probably be a month or two before I get it
I used a 1/2 x 1/16” steel tube. Pre bent to shape then welded in. Would have been cooler to hammer form the edges over but would have been very difficult and time consuming. I temporarily welded bracing to keep shape while fitting the tube.
I like the feel of shifting a manual but seeing how this is going to be an automatic I will have to improvise. I found what I think is an ebrake off a pretty early (20/30's ?) vehicle. Bonus points if anyone knows what it is from I want my shifter to have an H pattern throw, not just in a straight line. I picked up a top plate from an NP435 basically to use the ball and socket to achieve the proper range of motion. I gutted the shift forks and junk then extended the ebrake handle rod on the inside and made a template for it to engage at the proper shift points. I forgot to get a pic of the finished inside plate before I put it back together. It seems to have the right engagement when selecting gears I just have to get the cable hooked up and finish the floor so I can mount it
I don't get how the conversion from H pattern to straight line shifter on the auto trans is working here... (I've never been accused of being the brightest bulb on the tree)
The donor shifter cable has a decent amount of rotation built in. This allows side to side flex while allowing the cable to give it's proper in and out movement. Forgive my drawing but it shows the cable travel and the where the gears would fall. The cable ***embly is at a 60° (ish) angle to get the "H" pattern Maybe I'm out to lunch but it makes sense in my head and on paper. I won't get to truly know until it's actually running
Maybe wire it to an alarm siren so if someone tries to steal your truck, the first thing they do is push in the clutch and off goes the alarm.
clutch can be the high beam switch. How will you rig a lock or detent for park so someone doesn't bump the shifter and that beauty rolls away.
"Maybe wire it to an alarm siren so if someone tries to steal your truck, the first thing they do is push in the clutch and off goes the alarm." b-bop, that is the politically correct way, I, on the other hand, might make a handcuff arrangement on the fake pedal, so when a thief stepped on it, his ankle got latched to the truck and the ignition disabled. That way he'd be there when the cops arrived in the morning. (unless he went full coyote and chewed his foot off)
The shifter has a release pin that travels inside to the handle. It locks when it reaches the lockout holes and is spring loaded so squeezing the handle releases it
Got the steering wheel fabbed up. I dislike seeing a modern wheel in an old vehicle, it gives away what was used as a doner. I wanted to keep the f450 column and electronics (tilt,horn, cruise ****ons etc) but make it look less factory. I will get some nice leather wrapped around the wheel once I finish the interior.
Its been a year or two since I made any real progress. Now we're moving, so that lite a fire under my *** to make some progress. Body mounts are done
Yep, moving will do that to you. I moved my COE four times before we settled in our current home. Once in a semi transport, all the other times I drove it....with my fingers crossed
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