i like the gas cap one, i think just a stripped gas cap you pick up on the door opens, slick, and the way i`m thinking about it now, the cable would make a nice 3 foot loop, think it would work....i`m pulling more than that to open the truck of my buick....all ya need is the cap and neck....peice of cake...
It could totally be a 400. It was labeled 90 chev truck and the junkyard guy said he thought it was a 350 with a short tail. I moved the selector through the range and got a P,R,N,1,2,3. Does a 400 have that same range with a 1,2,4 instead? I'll have to check the numbers... Yeah windows will be down 10 months a year haha
I may have over done it. I agree with the pull it would be alot more simple. What I was worried about and why the spin instead of the pull was not thinking and yanking the cap too hard and breaking the wire. I guess the 2nd safty wire would stop that too.
yeah, pretty sure its a 400, has the same pattern, but can tell by the gussets that are on the tailshaft that run lenghtwise towards the case, those are 400, 350 doesn`t have those that i`ve seen, what shape is the pan? 350 is almost square, is weird shaped, kinda like a ractrack....lol....does is have an electrical plug on it? if its a 400 you will need the input yoke for a 400, different from a 350.....
Pretty sure the pan is rectangular, not a weird shape... Has coolant lines and one plug with one pin and another plug farther back with 2 pins. It has the input shaft already, so I just need u-joints and a driveshaft
i`m pretty sure its a 400, but if you have all the parts and it`s already in, doesn`t matter, actually you got a better deal, 400s generally go for a few bucks more around these parts, so, what the hell, i just generally won`t pay more for one on a daily driver, not worth it.....eats up a little more power.....but hey....it`ll work out fine...
Well, the cable may need to be a rod and the spring might need to come from the other direction, depending on how your door latch works.
no by all means do what you will. i just live in the land of cars, and with that comes the land of stolen cars. its just a fact! its just the world we live in today sucks sometimes. yes i have fun with my car, i love my car. and if someone wants it, they will take it. i just dont want to give them the chance.at a show there is no need to lock your car. and im not trying to be a tough guy at all. this thread has strayed way off course. lets get back to the topic at hand.
With my shaved handles on my 34 coupe I have remote power windows which I simply run down and reach in for the inside door handle. I have remote battery terminals on the frame near the front wheel that I could jump if a dead battery happened. I also have a manual pull cable on one door but it is a bitch to pull to pop the bear claw latch. And finally I have a hidden weather proof outside window switch as a back up to my remote window switch.
There are alot of nice jobs using electric. Some work better than others. One of the guys in our club had a nice 34 street rod. Someone else had built it. I'm not sure why they did it this way but the door where electric in and out. He was having some problems when he was on the inside trying to get out and pushed the button the door would click but it wouldn't open sometimes. He'd have to shake the door a bit to get the latch to let loose. It happen a few times and then one day he's getting ready to get out and hit the button. The door made click sound but would not open. He messed with the door for a minute or two and could not get out. He starts the car and heads for home. As he's driving home, locked inside his car smoke starts coming out of the door. The popper was stuck on and had over heated. It started filling the car up with smoke. He got stopped and was still stuck inside. 300 pound man in a chop top isn't going out the window. He ended up ripping the tweed custom door panel off the door and electric burn across his hand as he ripped the hot wires out of the door. When he tells the story it's funny to me but if you think about it I'd say that may have been a scary ride. Once the door panel was ripped off he could get to the latch himself. He traded the car off right after that. I know that most don't go electric in and out but there is still problems. I guess if I hadn't seen a car burn that I had for over 20 years I wouldn't worry so much. But I like to stay away from Chinese made electric parts as much as I can.
I'm rocking electric in and out, I've had a few problems, but they've been resolved. I'm also about six feet tall, and weight about 150, so busting glass and sliding through incase of an emergency isn't a really big issue.
Ok it's probably like looking for hen's teeth, these push buttons mechanical on 60's Rootes Group vehicles, Hilman, Mink, Commer Cob,Hillman Husky, Commer Spacevan. These would probably do the job required, they were very popular as replacement handle on shaved cars in the 80's and a popular specialist/kit car fitment. This may not be appropriate but didn't some 70/80's hatchbacks have a something similar push to release and the fingerplate to assist opening, a custom finger plate in brass and chromed shoudn't be too difficult to make just using a drill and hand tools.
As your truck is a 54 it came with push button door handles from the factory, so you may get lucky by just installling a different push button handle, the ones I've messed about with older European and Japanese the lock on the push button simply disables the push button by either locking it solid or by disarming the mechanism so the button still slides but does not operate anything. I can't suggest a suitable unit apart from those in my previous post and the "early Renault 5, Le Car", this calls for a visit to the salvage yard, swap meet, flea market to have a good root around, as most vendors will let you examine the part to check out if it works and more importantly how.
We have shaved a few and the only one we didn't use the poppers we used a spring. Used a washer and bolt to mount it to the body inside where the door closes, when closed the spring is compressed and when you turn the lock with your key and it disengaged the lock the spring pushed the door open about an inch. Worked great.
I know it won't help on your truck but for others that are working on cars alot of these ideas could be used to shave their trunk lids.
hello I know you posted this a mouth ago , but i wanted to say thank you for the video, it will work for me , i love old school teck , thank from MOTO
i shaved the handles installed bear claws , ran a threaded rod from claw down inner door to drain hole directly at bottom of door added a stock chrome lock ferrel to thread rod which barely stick out of bottom of door ............ works great ...
Brilliant... and kind of "spy car", Mr. Steed. Or use a locking gas cap. Under the cap is the cable (and handle) running through the old filler tube to the latch mechanism.
I have ran this setup almost 10 years with out any poppers I grab the upper part of the door and pull out as I turn the key, also I forgot to mention it but coke locks from a vending machine or gun safe locks work really well cause there made to be pulled on as a handle and a key, but they do look very modern.
In my Falcon I have a hood release handle and cable mounted inside the Left fender wheel well, going inside along the kick panel, through the door jamb, and up to the latch. If I ever run my battery down, I just reach up inside the wheelwell and find the handle, give it a tug, and the door pops open.
Did you ever get this figured out? I had a 1955 Chevy about 15 years ago (that I stupidly got rid of) and I remember it had door poppers but had the key cylinder. When ever I put the key in and turned it's popped the door. The cylinder itself had wires connected to it! I want the same set up in my other 1955 but I can not locate a kit. I started to think it was some kind of custom work.
Do you know of any other trunk push buttons lockable that would work I am mounting the push button in my trim kind of like Larry Watson did..
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