1952-59 Ford Shaved door handles

Hey guys, I know this topic was brought up before, but I'm lookin to shave my door handles asap. Anyone have any good advice or companies to go with to have them pop out? Ive never done anything like this before, so pictures and info would be great! Also gonna shave the hood and deck lid soon too. So advice on the deck lid would help too.As always, your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Rocky

 

Rocky ,
I am doing my 55 Fairlane that way . I have removers all the door handles , locks , all the Ford emblems , engine size and **** like that . The only thing I have left so far is the hood bird and the holds for the side trim . All the rest have been welded up .
I am just going to buy a key less entry set up for a 2 door with everything and then look around for some very strong poppers just in case the ones in the kit don't bite it . Just remember to add some cables to open your door when the battery is dead .
I am going to put a small door and seal with rubber in the fender well with a thump screw to open the door to get to the hidden door emergency cable . The one for the trunk will be from a salvage yard car . The emergency cable will be mounted where the seat sit on the floor . Those are the 2 main things to open when the battery doesn't work .
There are a million kits out there for this set up . Try to find one at a reasonable price or take the parts from a salvage car or truck .

Jim

 

There's a how-to on installing a pull-cable deck lid release here: 1952 Victoria Build-Up Part 1. Hope this helps.

There's also some info on the Speedway Motors electric door kit on the same thread, but not a complete how-to. I'll do that when I can get to it.

You probably won't need door poppers. When you replace the old door seals with new door seals the doors will pop open by themselves when the latch is released by the solenoid pull.

I'll be doing electric doors on both the Victoria and the Monterey, but might not get to either before you need the info to do yours. Perhaps somebody else on the main board has done a how-to thread on it.

If you find a good one, let us know okay?

 

If you're strapped for cash you could do what I did. I used GM door lock motors and made my own system. They've woeked fine for over 20 years.

 

I'm using the Autoloc kit. I had problems with geometry and pull on the light duty solenoids, because convertibles and hardtops make a mess out of the inner door structure. That being said, they're monsters. I've also got it on a remote, so I have no external ****ons, and only two switches on the inside to open their respective doors. I'm gonna try and set up a safety back-up with a manual release sometime in the future, just in case the receiver fails.

On the '54 merc we used to own, we used the cheap speedway kit, and it works okay. If you use this, I suggest getting nicer switches.

 

Awesome. Thanks guys. I talked to joe (orlandoautobody) and he is doing his next weekend. I'll probably go over and watch him. He's doing the autoloc kit too. I don't have 300 to spend on a kit though. I saw some on on ebay with 60 lbs solenoids, but I'm not sure how much I need. And that kit is only 120. But I do know that you get what you pay for.

 

I used the same thing as carnut 341 on my last truck. Worked excellent.

 

Hi Rocky I have been using a remote door release kit (VPA vehicle power accessories) Summit racing sells for years on all my cars with shaved handles and have had no problems, BIG plus is kit won't break the bank! Part # VIA-80158-35DP 129.95 has everything you will need. If you use bear claw latches and have the angles set up right, you won't need alot of pull to make work. I have this kit in my everyday car 11 years.
If I knew how to post pictures (other then album) I could show you my 54 coupe set-up (sorry 55 is all done). I can build cars but when it comes to the computer I sometimes just don't get it Ha Ha. If you have questions just pm me.
Charles....

 

It's important to get your doors hung and adjusted properly before you install electric pulls. This is not rocket science, but it does involve some skill and know-how. I plan to cover this when I do the doors on my cars.

Essentially it's done like this: Remove the striker ***emblies and find replacements if they are worn, but do not install them at this time. Check the hinges for wear and replace them if they are worn as well.

With the strikers removed and the hinges replaced, remove the sag from the door by pushing upward on the door with a floor jack (this is the tricky part - use a 2 x 4 between the INNER DOOR STRUCTURE and the jack to keep from damaging the door; position the door as close to closed as is practicable; position the jack as far rearward on the door as possible for best leverage) until the body lines match when the pressure is let off the jack. This usually takes several-many tries. Be gentle and take your time!!!

Then adjust the door (if necessary) at the hinge bolts in and out until the leading edge of the door aligns with the trailing edge of the front fender. The rear edge of the door should align with the quarter panel after this process as well. This gives the car a smooth side, with the body lines matching and the surfaces aligned as well.

Then reinstall the strikers and adjust them so that they neither lift nor lower the door as it is slowly closed and latched. Done properly this will give you doors that work properly, align properly and latch/unlatch with minimum effort on the electric pulls.

 

Missydad makes a good point, make sure everything is lined up, and when you put the striker back on, make sure its good and aligned. nothing is worse then shutting your door to see it jam on you, without a way to force it open.

 

Thanks for all of the advice fellas. Charles, I'm gonna check on that part number today. And missysda, you are a life saver. I never knew how to adjust the doors. Seems fairly simple, but time consuming. Sounds like another project just got added for the weekend. Thanks again everyone.