Hot Rods shoe box engine angle

So I am back to work on the shoe box I did a 350 700r4 swap. Ya ya I know . My question is I have the jamco mounts for the motor and no one offers ones for the 700r4 that I know of could be wrong. With everything mocked up my motor is leaned way back . If I Jack up the trans anymore I am in the floor big time . Like my drive shaft is going to be slapping my ass . Dose anyone have pictures of there floor pan mods with a 700r4.

 

My avitar is small blockand 700-R. I only had to bump the floor enough to get space for the fill tube. The 770-R mount sits on the Ford cross member with just the bolt pattern adjusted to mate the 2 bolt holes up to the mount. I did not use any Kit mounts for the motor. I built my own mounts to take the stock Chev rubber side mounts like any Chevell would use.
The Wizzard

 

We fitted a Y block and 700R4 to our shoe box , the fire wall was enlarged some as was the trans tunnel. We had to add a drive shaft loop for safety and shift the trans mount rear ward some but no real dramas. The trans tunnel is reasonably large but that goes with the territory and it's not so large as to be in the way. The Y block sits as low as we could with a skid plate to protect the sump, and the drive shaft has a straight shot to the 8" rear, with a modified rear X member for clearance.

 

Shoebox transmission humps are not all the same. '49/'50 models are one size, in '51 models they were increased in size/height to accommodate the larger case of the new Fordomatic trans. You can get a C4 Cruiseomatic in a '49/'50 without hump mods, but larger trans like 700R4 and AOD's are not so easy.

Ray

 

This is with the engine sitting level.

 

It's sitting so high that I can use the stock steering with no problem.

 

nI'd think you would want to put the output shaft of the trans quite close to where the original output shaft on the stock trans was height wise and adjust the front mounts to match.
After a few false starts way back when and having to redo things I got into the habit of mounting the trans first where it should go to make everything work on that end or at least setting the height of it where it needed to be and then setting the height of the front mounts to get the carb mounting surface of the intake level. A little shuffling and jockeying around getting it just so before doing any serious welding saves a lot of headaches later and yes I have had to massage a trans hump or firewall more than once.

 

I would set it so the transmission pan is parallel to the frame, and see how it looks. That's the angle that the engine and trans are designed to work.

 

I'd like to see the motor mounts. Looks like the motor may be sitting to high?

 

I did a 350/350 swap in my '50 Ford using Jamco motor and transmission mounts. My transmission sits high like in your picture. The mounts put the transmission pan higher then my frame rails and I had to raise my driveshaft tunnel to accommodate. Its a lot of work, but if I install air suspension, I know I won't damage my transmission oil pan.