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Shoebox fender seams

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 62ironhead, Dec 29, 2009.

  1. 62ironhead
    Joined: Apr 9, 2008
    Posts: 98

    62ironhead
    Member

    I have tried to search and cannot find anything. I have ssen many shoebox Fords with the rear fender seams ground smooth and would like to do this to mine. How much work am I in for? Is it just grind off the raised part, weld, and grind smooth or is there more involved? Any help is apreciated.
     
  2. chop32
    Joined: Oct 13, 2002
    Posts: 1,077

    chop32
    Member

    The moulding in question can be removed with a co**** gringing disc. The moulding is T shaped with the down leg of the T in the pinchweld between the quarter panel and the main body. There is some sort of sealant that Ford used between the panels and you have to get it all out so it doesnt contaminate your welds. Due to the age of these cars you will probably find some rust which will also contaminate the welds. Its more work that you would initially think to do it right, but well worth the time, IMHO.
     
    Toddlich likes this.
  3. To add more info, you will also get into a factory Lead seam. The T strip is there to cover up a poor fit between the 2 panels also. Yes it's more work that you would think but well worth the end result.
    The Wizzard
     
  4. 37FABRICATION
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 672

    37FABRICATION
    Member

    Ya, worth the extra time to do a good job cleaning out the seam before welding...
     
  5. topless
    Joined: Feb 2, 2005
    Posts: 628

    topless
    Member
    from La Luz, NM

    How do you guy's clean out the seam? I would think a 2" grinding disc with an air grinder might work?
     
  6. THEKID49
    Joined: Apr 24, 2005
    Posts: 583

    THEKID49
    Member

    You can also use an air chisel to remove the filler strip. You have to use the V tip. I did it on the '51 I worked on, and it came off in seconds with no damage to the car. Just minor clean-up with the grinder.
     
  7. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,586

    117harv
    Member

    Grind off the strip, and then use a gas torch, and carefully burn out the sealant and then weld.
     
  8. psyco50
    Joined: Jul 15, 2009
    Posts: 94

    psyco50
    Member
    from Pomona,ca

    Grind some seam off and tack weld as you go along, when I did mine, my **** almost split apart on me trying to grind off the whole seam in one shoot, LOL.....
    Use one of these paint s****ers they work very well, in removing any old paint or sealant.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Do a little at a time. I ground about 6"-8" out at a time and kept spot welding it to keep it from pulling apart. Didnt have any sealant in mine, I'm sure it disappeared with age. Looks a lot better filled in my opinion!
     

    Attached Files:

  10. 62ironhead
    Joined: Apr 9, 2008
    Posts: 98

    62ironhead
    Member

    Thanks guys! I am off work until the new year, so I will give it a try. My light frenching stuff came today also, so I should be busy!
     
  11. igby
    Joined: Aug 6, 2005
    Posts: 109

    igby
    Member

    i pulled mine out with vise grips and welded up as i went along, was easy to do try this first.
     
  12. shoebox50
    Joined: Nov 20, 2005
    Posts: 662

    shoebox50
    Member

    It will be worth it. It will look great when your done.
     
  13. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,357

    Hnstray
    Member
    from Quincy, IL

    Great posts, guys.......... My '50 coupe is bubbling along the seam line and I need to fix it and have been mulling this over for awhile.........then, here it is.....some details on what to expect........Thanks!
     
  14. Lone Star Mopar
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 4,220

    Lone Star Mopar
    Member

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