Shop Truck Bed Wood - Cheap, Durable, Attractive

that is bad ***

 

I noticed your post began in 2010. Now that it's three years later, how the bed holding up with the PT? I certainly got a good education on PT. Always wondered what the difference was between red and green PT.
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Looked great when installed. I would have expected pine to be too soft and get beat up and gouged too much. The original Southern Yellow Pine is much harder, isn't it?

 

Thanks Barn Find. I'm hoping to get a reply from The Rodster, who started this post. I wanted to know how the PT wood has held up after three years and whether or not he had any corrosion problems from the PT chemical salts in the wood.

 

Cedar fence boards

 

We used old barn wood in my Model A bed so it looks like has always been there.

 

It has held up well, considering that it is constantly in the weather.

I have looked all over, and have not seen any corrosion issues.

The wood did continue to shrink a little, so you need to get it as dry as possible, and install it tight.

Rich

 

Thanks for the update. I looked for ya saturday at beech bend so i could check it out myself. Couldnt find ya though.

 

This DIY is terrific ~

Has anyone here tried Tong Oil ? .

I used it on the cheap plywood in my old '49 3100 Chevy , it was amazingly good stuff if nasty on my hands (oops) .

 

While I haven't used it on a wooden truck bed- I have used tung oil on furniture and other wood items I have built with much success. My grandfather who was a wood boatbuilder in his early career swore by the stuff.

 

I have been trying to find a source for the wear strips he used on his truck. Does anyone know where they can be purchased? Thanks

 

Ford and Chevy are easy to find, Cl***ic trucks, Carters, Brothers, summit etc. You can probably modify these to fit any bed.

 

Nice project. I hope it holds up. Your 10-15 yr old pressure treated wood was different-the chemicals used for treating are different now and galvanized fasteners, unless highly thick coatings, are no longer recommended. Go look at the deck screws at your hardware store-they're ceramic coated, not galvanized. This is a good article:

www.aces.edu/poultryventilation/do***ents/Nwsltr-35ACQLumber.pdf

You did a really nice job, though. Best of luck.

 

http://www.mar-k.com/Catalog/m/mCatalog.aspx?home=

 

Ok - just joined. The old trucks from my limited research originally had from the factory pine board wood bed treated with creosote and then painted on the top bed surface with flat or satin black paint or stain. The idea- I believe was that when it rotted out you just replaced it with the same. No matter how or what you treat the wood with it is not going to last forever. Remember it's a truck-a utility vehicle. My 2 cents.

 

Just finished my bed. Boards are from Northern cl***ic trucks. I wouldn't recommend them for the wood. Way to many imperfections. Their planer must be getting a bit worn out. Here's a pic of the back of the boards. You can see all the planing marks. Lines if you would.


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Used an orbital with 80 then 120 then 320 grit to even them out. 5 hours later they are smooth.


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Stained with behlen solar lux medium red mahogany.


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22 coats later. With a block sand every 4 coats. They are done. Color
Sand and buff and installed.


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A pic of the dye I used. It's alcohol based dye.


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I always like the look of a wood bed. My Dad had two trucks back in the day (early 70's and late 70's) that had wood floored beds. Both were Chevies, both had the wood painted the same color as the truck. I don't know if having a "clear" finish on the wood was an option.

I remember the earlier truck had one of the boards in the bed partially cup on the tail gate end. It was up about two or three inches at the end and kind of tapered back to normal within 6-8 inches. It never really bothered Dad (apparently), so it was never fixed. The same truck had four different shades of green on the cab and hood; the dealer denied it until Dad went to trade in the truck on a new one.

 

Nice and nice dog! Thanks for the tech...