Anyone know of some solid, reliable, quality shops in the lower half of Mississippi, or West Alabama? I am needing a frame clip done and have been quoted 2 completely different numbers, atleast one is half the other. I need it all done, but just on stock suspension. Chevy clip, ford frame. same width, no messing with track width. Just need the frame done, steering tweaked to work with a double d joint I guess, motor mounts, and frame horns worked to fit stock front metal. What should I expect to pay for this? I was thinking 1500 total, but am I being too cheap on my expecations? I realize it's a bit of work, but I could supply any steel that is needed for boxing the frame at the joint, for motor mounts, and for working the horns. I meant that 1500 as supplying the front clip themselves, not me.
I use to charge around 1500 for that job not including motor mounts or steering hookup 15 years ago so depending on local labor rates (and I think NM is real low) my guess is too low. I don't do these anymore but if I was at todays labor rates and parts cost I'd be around $3000 + nessasary rebuild parts for what your looking for.
it amazes me people want that much for this, when they are willing to build a full frame, INCLUDING a bag job for 5-6k. I guess I couldn't ever own a shop, too understanding.
Are you saying I was ripping people off?????? I had a lot of satified customers and a long waiting list even though there were plenty of guys willing to do it for a grand when I was getting $1500. Redid a lot of those $1000 jobs too. Maybe it's not that you're too understanding but you don't understand what it takes to run a PROFESSIONAL rod shop.
Grant, You have to think about this deal as time spent doing the swap and the parts required to make it right. You want the shop to locate a useable clip, drag it from the salvage yard, clean it up and dissamble it. Then they need to replace any worn or damaged parts. Then they have to bring your car in and remove the front sheet metal, remove the motor and trans. They they set your car on stands/jig so it sits level, make sure your existing frame is straight and not bent. Your frame needs to be cleaned. If everything checks out, then they measure your frame and the "new" subframe to determine where to splice. Then your frame gets cut and the new subframe is positioned and a lot of measuring takes place. A few tack welds and more measuring. Once the positioning is correct the full weld and the reinforcing can be done. Now all the shop has to do is design a radiator support to match you rad location properly in the new clip. Then they can build front fender supports, modify the steering column, and all the other odds and ends that used to mount to the frame that is no longer where it used to be but may or may not be close. When they get all done with that it needs to be painted. Suppose you get a new frame. The shop pulls new steel off a rack and cuts to known demensions. Clamps the new parts into the jig and welds the together. They have made several by this time and already know the order everyhing needs to be done in. If the frame was properly engineered, placement of any needed parts was already located on the jig, and each part was designed to fit where it is suppose to be. Then it can be painted as a whole componet while it can be turned, flipped, or rotated as needed. Once the frame is built, they get the new suspension parts out of the bin along with all the new hardware and bolt the suspension on. Then the rolling frame is sent to you (or your shop). Your compairison stops here, with a complete sub frame compaired to a new frame sitting someplace. With the new frame, you still have to get the body transfrered to the new frame. Gene
I`ve done a few front clip jobs myself and I can ***ure you that $1500 probably won`t cover the labor, much less the cost of a used front clip on top of all that.
Agree. Shop I hang out at does a couple of Mustang II cross member installations a month. I don't think the owner would even consider doing a clip job. A Mustang II cross member and suspension components will cost more than a salvage yard clip. And that may be an affordable way for the home builder. But there is a lot less labor in a Mustang II job. In a pro shop, the cost of doing a clip could actually exceed the cost of a Mustang II cross member installation materials included..
yup i agree with that seen one on EvilBay for around $1300.00 bucks .. Grant for what you willing to pay i dont believe its gonna happen for you and if somebody tells you they can do it for that kinda money... i wouldnt just walk away i would run...
Ofcourse, if some previous owner has butchered in some Volare etc at 4 different crooked angles...the clip is a good way to remove the butchered front rails.. Question is......are you paying for just labour? or "R&D" while they figure out all those annoying little details???? That may be where the all new approach is getting cheaper
what kind of vehicle are you working on and what type of clip are you needing installed? lets start there if your fishing for estimates. i personally don't do that work for a living because i enjoy what i do instead. i don't want to work that hard and deal with non-paying customers. shop at walmart and you get walmart quality. why not do it yourself and put that money into different part of the car.
dont get your ******* in a bunch, damn. if your people were happy, who am i to say you were ripping them off. I just know I wouldn't pay 3 grand for a swap.
There is a guy in Durant, thta wants 1500 labor + parts, and there is a guy in East Alabama that wants 800 labor + parts. The guy in Alabama has built full frames and air suspension installs plenty of times and has shown he knows what he is doing. Same goes for the guy in Durant. If I am supplying the clip, bringing a stripped front end put together enough just to have the motor in, and be rolling that eliminates a lot of the work leading up to the job. It would be towed on a front wheel dolly more than likely. Guess it's time to start saving and just do it "right" the first time with a full frame. I wouldn't run an MII in a heavy truck like this unless it was my last option.
Sometimes it's a better option than a MII. Like for 58-59 Pickups, I wouldn't run a MII under one... Yep vehicle and type of clip first...
Industrial Ch***is in Arizona makes a crosmember for Dodge Dakota front end swaps into pickup trucks. If you want heavier that could be your answer.
its a 72 f100, wanting to do a 67-98 chevy clip. i didnt want to say make/model as it's not HAMB material, figured it didnt very much matter. i ask here because I know a lot of you guys have done this in the past. if I could afford a dakota clip + install + more parts to make it possible, I would do that. A clip is the cheapest way out IMO, and still safe if done correctly.
Really, I hate these types of cop outs. This is your hobby, Right?..... Nevermind. I lost this battle years ago trying to convince people to build what they really want instead of what they can afford "RIGHT NOW". Dodge Dakota suspension from a wrecking yard = $250* Industrial Ch***is Inc. crossmember kit = $695.00 + shipping ($45.00) MillerMatic 180 = $958 75/25 Mix gas bottle = $45* Jackson welding helmet = $25 WLD 101 from your local community college = $500-800 The knowledge and equipment you gain for your next project = PRICELESS! * prices may vary in your area. Seriously, For under $3000.00 you can install your own front end, own a decent MIG machine and equipment and walk away with the satisifaction of doing it yourself. After you acomplish a task like a subframe or kit install you will understand why a statement like this is not only insulting but comical. I got frustrated with the similar comments made from guys just like yourself about how expensive Mustang II crossmember kits are. I figured the best way to explain it is to show what goes into building your own, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70073 Yes, you could buy a complete frame for 5G's or so. Pretty damned cheap for that much depending on what suspension components are included for that price. But then again ANY manufactured part is going to be cheaper than a custom built frame or clip. Think about this for a minute, any m*** produced part is always cheaper than having just ONE made regardless of what it is.
if I could afford a dakota clip + install + more parts to make it possible, I would do that. A clip is the cheapest way out IMO, and still safe if done correctly.[/QUOTE] Now I understand why you thought $800.oo /$1500.oo was to much. In my shop you'd be spending closer to 3K. So here is a thought, Talk to the Employe at the Shop that Quoted you $800.oo, maybe He'll come to your House and do it for 1/2 price and save you hauling your Truck accross town. Guy's do that to Help each other out all the time. The Wizzard
Yeah, great idea! 'Cause if I found my employees were doing that to me they would have a full time job at YOUR house.....
I'm not trying to cop out of anything, its the fact an MII kit is 1800-3000 depending on parts included. A front end is ~300 + bushings. So call it 5-600. Install is going to be roughly the same, as they all call for the same amount of setup really. Last I checked on dakota clips they were 2500+, that's what I was going off of. If I can get one for 700, I will definately look into that. As for m*** produced parts, I am not understanding your point there? The frame I want is far from m*** produced, it would be an s10 clip and new rails from firewall back. That's what I would get (plus a bag job, 4 link, all that) for the 5-6k, and then mounting the body as well.
Now I understand why you thought $800.oo /$1500.oo was to much. In my shop you'd be spending closer to 3K. So here is a thought, Talk to the Employe at the Shop that Quoted you $800.oo, maybe He'll come to your House and do it for 1/2 price and save you hauling your Truck accross town. Guy's do that to Help each other out all the time. The Wizzard[/quote] For clerification, the 800 I thought was fair, with me supplying parts, the 1500.....thats double what I was quoted so I was taken back by it. 800 plus parts sounds fair to me, just a full state away from me geographically.
My crossmember kits were never $2500.00, only the hub to hub kits were in that range. I haven't offered those in quite some time now. You left out those tidbits of information from your previous posts. I ***UMED you were speaking of a TCI, Walton, FatMan type frame for the 5-6K range (that is the price range for some of the more basic rollers). If the frame you described sounds like a good deal, then what are you waiting for? To me the prices quoted seem fair for all accounts. I don't see a huge disparity in pricing between the clip and whole frame I think the point you are missing is, labor is labor. You are going to pay by the hour for any work. So if you figure about $500.00 a day for the average shop rate, three days worth of work to install your subframe, create new or attach your old frame horns for bumper attachment and core support attachement points, hook up steering and such, not too bad.
grant i used an S10 ch***is for my 37 ..why cant you just use what you got? you never have said what you are working on unless i missed something.. you located in the delta?
Here's an interesting Tech post by Lux Blue: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148978&showall=1
i mentioned it, but its buried ina bunch of othre stuff im sure. its a 72 f100, which is why i never did mention it at the beginning. I can't use what I have now because Ford used the twin I-beam setup, which in my opinion is NOT worth bagging and getting them bent to fix whatever camber can be accounted for. As far as my location, I believe I am not but 30-40 minutes from you, I am in Hattiesburg. I will try and find some s10 measurements, Maybe I can use the whole frame, I havent looked into it as I immediately just threw that idea out the window.
my 52s got a Camaro clip....it lines up Beautifully with the stock ch***is - we raised it 2 inches when we installed it and it sits PLENTY LOW
With your crossmember kits, you only sell f100 kits up to 66, are you aware of any changes from those years into the following body style?
The Jalopy Journal
