Technical Shortened driveshaft

I have a shortened torque tube that is warped due to excess heat on the radius rod lug. I'm not currently set up to redo this myself, and don't trust anyone to do it locally. Any recommendations for anyone that does this?
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=856669

 

Can you not shorten another torque tube again?

 

I am not an expert on this, but, the driveshaft runs inside that without touching the center part of the tube. Will that cause a problem? There is a bearing at the back. Is there one at the front, or is the driveshaft just centered on the tailshaft of the trans?

 

I need to get another one built. Even if I removed the middle bearing the geometry at the snout bearing is still all wrong and will lead to failure.

 

you already know where it's bent, why don't you try heating it up and bending it back?? seems simple enough?? when the driveshaft fits good you are done??

 

Why does the lug appear to be at the center of the torque tube? (maybe it's hard to tell from picture) Ideally it should be closer to the front. And how did that much heat get put into just welding the lug back on? Sectioning a tube near the "center" is always difficult to get it trued up (probably won't if it has a center bearing/solid shaft type).

I have done several, both solid shaft and hollow shaft type. Truing all parts in a lathe and pressing both the banjo flange into the shorter torque tube and pressing the splinded ends into the new hollow tube section keeps things square. Tack welding at 120 deg. segments, then welding in opposite increments prevents warping.

Remove the banjo flange in a lathe. Remove torque tube material from banjo end to make it shorter, then turn shoulder on banjo flange and press fit before welding.

Same operation for the hollow drive shaft. Remove splined ends in lathe, then turn shoulder and press fit into new tube before welding. Welding should be done with TIG to minimze heat.

New tubing should be DOM (drawn over mandrel), it's seamless and strong. Stock hollow Ford tube is tapered at each end, new tubing is only available in smaller dia. straight pieces. Does not matter unless you are buiding a race car, then a torque tube in not the answer anyhow. Hollow tube drive shafts do not use center bearings. I can send you the tube dimensions and supplier info if you want it. They sell small quan***ies and ship to your door. Or call Denny's Driveshafts, they will sell you the material or even make one for you if you send them the splined ends.

This requires lathe accuracy, press fits and uniform welding. Clamping to a table may not be enough unless you are lucky.

Most guys like the solid shaft type because it's easier to just wack the rear end off and weld on a coupler "if it's straight".

Pretty sure: solid shafts are 6 spline at rear, hollow are 10 spline, so check this first.

Great explanation by **** Spadaro in the first post. Try Denny's, they were very helpfull when i called them. Any machine shop should be able to do this also.

 

I would use a procedure similar to how you straighten a 9" ford rear axel tube to fix the bend

something like this:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46369

 

I would try welding the same amount on the opposite side of the tube. It should pull it back the same way it pulled it down in the first place. You have nothing to lose by trying if you are having it replaced anyways.

 

I like that rig, I've done similar with a H-frame press on smaller parts.