Youu dang HICKABILLY!!!! Ain't there no 4x4 shops down yonder your way??? Your proposed frame surgery is fairly simple...if you're a competent welder. My old el camino 4x4 was based on a shortened 1970 Chevy 4x4 ch***is. For strength, plates were fashioned from pieces of the removed frame section, and welded over the seam where the frame was welded back together (Inside and outside of the frame). Through all sorts of curb blasting and off road abuse, none of the welds ever showed even a hint of fatigue or stress. Hack away!!!
This may not be the right way, but if your limited on equipement pull it in your garage and block up the frame with jack stands/cinder blocks in 8 places, 2 in the front 2 in the back and 2 on each side of the cut. From underneath put a level on the frame at the flatest spots and shim as you need to get it level as possible. That way its nice and solid and when you make your cut you can just slide the back of the frame up to the front half and weld. Make sure to do alot of crossmeasureing and try to cut it someplace that you can get a straightedge or level on top or bottom of the frame to check for straightness front to back. You should be able to fishplate the outside of the frame and box in inside and that should be strong enough.
Mine was cut straight down and welded back together. Pieces of the removed section were cut into plates that covered the welded joint on the inside and outside. The plates were about 6" long or so...maybe a little more. The frame shouldn't need to be boxed for what you're doing...mine wasn't and it had the ungodly torsional stresses of giant tires (first 44s, then 48s!) to deal with! If it could handle THAT, then motoring around the backwoods in a 2wd six banger will be no sweat!!!
Tingler, I usually don't wack the frame straight across. Cut it at an angle say 45. Your welded area will take more stress without breaking that way. If you cut behind the front spring mount you can remount the perch with a fishplate, and that will help take some of the strain off it also. Just my .02
Ha Ha...my favorite tapes to blast outta the speakers in that thing were Poison and Def Leppard...with Van Halen's 5150 album getting lotsa "air" time as well!!! Nothin' cooler than doing some wild, smokey donuts in a BIG empty parking lot with "Nothin' But A Good Time" rippin' through the chrome Pioneer SuperTuner!!!!
NEVER NEVER use cinder blocks under a car!! they are pure **** and will crumble away leaving you squashed
It looks like you have very little kick up for the axle. You could move the springs forword, and cut 10" off the back. Then give it a little C if you need it.
I took 11" out of a Suburban frame without altering the rear suspension. If you can remove the section in front of the spring hanger, here is what I did. Get the frame level in that area by jacking up the front of the truck on stands. Mark your cuts. Tack weld 4 temporary legs from the frame to the floor. 2 on the cab side of the cut and 2 behind the rear cut. Take a look at the rear section. hopefully the frame stub in front of the axle is longer than the rails behind the axle.(it looks like it) When it gets cut loose the rear will act like a teeter totter. If the front is heavier it will just stand there on the new legs. If the back is heavier it will tip up when you cut through. Tack some struts across the frame rails to keep the proper width after cutting. I made the rear cuts first. The rear section can be rolled back easily. The front cuts can be made easier on the more stable cab section. Bevel the joints of course and grind to get a good fit. Tack weld small alignment clips to the bottom and sides of the cab frame sticking out beyond the joint an inch or so. When you roll the rear section up to the joint the clips will form a shelf to help hold the 2 pieces in alignment. Vise grips or C clamps on the tabs and rear frame will lock it together for measuring. A framing square held up to the sides and bottoms spanning the joint will tell you if the frame alignment is close. Of course measure the wheel base and the diagonals until you are sure it's straight and square. When you are satisfied, tack it and remeasure. When it's all tacked in place remove the clips for final welding. I used the cl***ic Nascar diamond gusset spanning the joint. Others will disagree with that but it's a 4x4 and it is still roaming the hills of WV. after 20 some years with no problems last I heard. It was a piece of cake. It took less than a day by myself for the whole job. I was working on a garage floor. Planning out the job steps to prevent the "oh ****s" is the secret. When I made the last cut separating the 2 pieces, the pieces quivered but stayed in alignment supported by the temporary struts.
[ QUOTE ] MP33... Good suggestions. I was figuring that would be a good way to go. Using lots of blocks and all. Anyone have any suggestions about the cut itself? Should I make it stepped....slanted....or just hack straight down? [/ QUOTE ] Make the cut verical and square. much easier to align. Don't confuse welding with glueing. A properly executed weld is stronger than the parent metal. You don't need more surface area for strength like glueing wood.
I'd change the springs and rear first. Then shorten the frame. You can locate the springs where they fit the best. Then shorten the frame the amount necessary to get your wheel base right. It may be easier to mount the rear an inch one way or the other which will change the amount of shortening.
orrrr, u could move the cab, engine, trans, fenders, front and front axle(?) back ten inches! I might add that i´m drinkin´beer right now...
have you thought about trying to put that cab on a late model frame? it would solve the brakes, suspension,etc. problems. i built a 54 chevy pickup and went the nova clip route. this was a relatively easy swap. but you have to trim the fender wells to fit around the upper swing arms. also i had to make a mount setup for the radiator and a mount for the front bumper. if i were to do it again i would go with the mustang 2 or just put that cab on a car frame or truck. then you just go with dropped spindles and be done with it. i have seen that body style truck on a 80's impala frame. i think i have that magazine somewhere if you want a copy of it.
just find your self a short wheel base s10 and slap the body on it.but thats alot work to..easier to chop a little out frame..make new drive shaft and call it good..making it shorter is gonna change the way it handles..not alot but a little..post a pic when ya get done..better yet just have a b.b.q and invite the greasy's over..tell them to help ya out for a sec..lol..good luck
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