They’re really hard to find, especially ripple pipe. I have a pair of shorty lakes non-ripple with ****py chrome that I’ve been hanging onto.
Those have been out of production for a very long time. @Tuck was working on tooling to make new ones, but I have not heard how he is doing on it. I have a set on my corvette that I bought at a swap meet decades ago. I had a spare set but sold them to @Bandit Billy for his wifes 41 pickup
The second I saw em, I knew I needed em. She likes em ribbed. I added the moon eye caps and painted them black after polishing them.
hey Bandit, what rear suspension is on the Boss's truck, thats the height I'm shootin' for on mt 39, and now I gots to find me a set of them shorty pipes
That is a 9" Ford Posi on parallel leaf springs. The hangers are inboard mounted of the frame up front allowing for it sit low with no lowering blocks. The rear was made for a Maverick race car that the guy never picked up so I got it. Perfect width to run reverse wheels on.
Well, not much help and would require you to have them plated but you could fab a set out of one of these https://oldscoolchoppers.com/products/rippled-exhaust-pi @Rand Man
Does anybody have recommendations on how to tie in to my existing exhaust? I’m ***uming it is 2” tubing. I know I can take it into an exhaust shop and they can figure it out. Just thinking providing them with a tee fitting, might be a cleaner installation. I found H-pipe kits, but all I’ve found so far are 2 1/4” or larger.
You evidently want them operational? If you are having an exhaust shop install them, why spend big bucks elsewhere on a splice when the shop could weld directly to your system?
I am going to guess that having open exhaust right in front of the drivers door is going to grow old fast. If you want them functional it would probably be a good idea to add a electric cut out rather than just pipe them straight in.
I have a roll of stainless steel exhaust packing. It’s kind of like a steel wool. I will put that inside the side pipes and make a post on that.
Have you tried googling ribbed or rippled motorcyle exhaust pipes since your making your own. I think mooneyes has motorcycle ripple pipes. Most are straight and short..Milwauke twins has flexible ribbed exhaust covers. Old's Cool Choppers has some straight ones too website https://oldscoolchoppers.com/products/rippled-exhaust-pipe
No, but the next one I do, I will use that ripple pipe that’s a great idea. I did not search hard enough
Dude pardon my language but **** putting anything in those little sneaker pipes. 1 it’s the opposite of the entire point of them being functional 2 a stock flathead is about quite as a sewing machine 3 no electric cut outs, you already put caps on the end and I KNOW you don’t like loud *** exhaust because of your other modifications to cars. Make them functional, no packing in them, cap the ends. When you want to cruise the parking lot like a proper hoodlum pull the caps for the three evenings a year you’ll pull them and be done with it. Or better yet find one of us younger hoodlums to twist them off for ya real quick. no need to make this anymore complicated than it is. and the shop will have that spliced into the current system faster than you can explain any prefab joint set up you come up with. absolutely love how this car is coming along.
I’m gonna be honest I completely forgot that this wasn’t a flathead car lol. Point still stands, why muffle cut outs? May as well just make them non functional at that point.
I bought a roll of stainless steel muffler packing material several years ago and just thought I might put it to good use. This being a low buck build I was just trying to use up what I had on the shelf. I will purchase a set of exhaust flange caps to suit your needs. I see now that you are correct. This is a great afront to the hotrod gods, and it shall be rectified properly.
That makes since, I wasn’t trying to be too much of a **** head. If you were only running the shorties some baffling of sorts makes all the since in the world.
It’s all good. I don’t have it all figured out yet. The current exhaust just ends under the back seat and I’m not really satisfied with that. I might just cut that off and elbow out to the shorties. One screw can hold in the packing vs nuts and bolts for the caps.
Hello, From the time my brother had our local welding/muffler shop install some down tubes for cut outs, the job of opening and closing them was left to “guess who,” when I was old enough. But until I was, my brother did the same thing when the chips were down. There were many teenagers during the 1956-65 time period in our local Bixby Knolls area that had down tube exhaust cut outs. His 1951 Oldsmobile sedan was the first one with the downtube cut outs and caps. Since it was on a lowered rake, that made it harder to get to the caps in case of a reversal “capping” procedure. Sometimes, it was easier to drive up on the curb and make a large enough opening under the car to cap or uncap the outlets. In his days of driving and racing the 1958 Impala, there were many times that he would crawl under the car to open the down tube cut outs. He had to unbolt one, loosen the other and move the cap over to one side. Then tighten the remaining nut so as not to lose any during the upcoming encounter. This was a standard operating procedure for most teenagers that had any kind of exhaust cut outs back then. It was a h***le, but it was a fix-it ticket at the very least from the CHP. The twin downtube exhaust outlets capped up for cl*** elimination races. (With normal diamond shaped outlets and caps.) If it was a short outlet coming out of the side, the access was a lot easier. Loosen the one nut and move the cap or take the cap off completely, exposing the opening to all Chp and local police policies. Then if capping the outlet as fast as possible, the two nuts, wrench and cap all had to be done without damaging anything. With the next generation of teenagers taking over the cruising hot rod scene, changes had to be made. One time on Cherry Avenue, the CHP broke up a race and chased a lot of teenagers all over the area. Luckily, my friend lived just around the block from the cemetery and told me to pull into the cul-de-sac near a low growing tree. He knew this spot was perfect for hiding. We had to jump out and cap up the exhaust cut out caps in case we were given the once over from the chasing CHP cruiser. Using an open end wrench or box wrench was not the fastest, but the only way to get the caps back in place, in silence. We obviously were on our backs, upside down, removing one nut, loosening the other, swinging the cap over, installing the loose nut and tightening both as if it was never open. It was time consuming and exciting at the same time. AND, dirty… Downward exhaust outlet flange with wingnuts for quick opening/closing and removal. Then one day hanging around my friend’s house, we figured out a way to make the opening and closing of the down tube exhaust cut outs so much easier and faster. A small slit on one side of the exhaust cap end fitting. Wingnuts (with Loc***e or some solution) instead of ordinary nuts. That way, a small tap is all that is necessary to tighten and loosen the cap for that extra power and sound. The reverse was easy, as the cap just swings back over the opening and the wingnut gets the tightening. Problem solved. The nut was now permanently attached to the cap with a wingnut. When the wingnuts were loosened, the cap easily slid out and over to open the exhaust opening. The wing nut was easier to tighten and keep in place. Even a small rock could tighten the wing… Before we started using blue Loc-***e, several of the wing nuts came loose and fell off, creating a jiggling metal on metal sound. The cap was loose and one remaining wing nut was keeping the whole thing from falling completely off. Jnaki So, the process is not just a waste of time, being macho or anything, but just something that was necessary for added sound and power. Opening the side or down tube exhaust cut outs is/was a standard procedure. But, crawling under the car to reach the down tube was a chore. The side cut outs could easily be capped up in a flash. Stop, flip, tighten the wing nut… silence is golden … From the 1959-60 standard exhaust cut outs to the electric cut outs is a long way apart. If we had those devices, it would have made it simple. But, not the true teenage ideas that made it fun and exciting while experiencing growing up. Cuts outs are Traditional, but electric cut outs are way beyond the timeline cut off dates. YRMV
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