should be an easy fix...can someone help out...

Bruce is advising you to (a**** other things) make sure the carbs match each other. That's why the questions about which model you have are being asked. Not all 94's are created equal, that's why it's important to know the model number.
Look down into the venturi and make sure the nozzle bars match from carb to carb (while your looking you might as well run the engine and determine if there is any leakage where the nozzle bars seat as this can cause uneven fuel delivery into the venturi as well as possibly drawing in extra air through the nozzle bar.
Here is some info about carb I.D. that may help you. Also, consider buying a reprint of Ford service bulletins that cover years 39 through 48 from Sac Ford (or any other Ford parts place). It has a wealth of information about these carbs, including a step by step sequence on rebuilding a 94. Also has diagrams explaining each circuit and it's relationship to the other circuits. also Id's individual parts within the carb as to which model and application.
Another thing you need to pay close attention to is the power valve. A stuck, leaking PV can cause your problems.Two areas to look at:
The gasket/seat area where it screws into the float bowl and the top of the valve where the little br*** adjustment is located. Make sure this part is not hitting the side of the float bowl. If it is, the float bowl needs to be relieved for proper clearance. I made a cut-away of an old float bowl in this area to make sure there was enough "meat" to remove without cutting into the fuel well. I can post pics of this if you need them.
94's are good, dependable carbs. You just have make yourself smarter than the carb.

Rich

 

hmm, so i pulled it out and it was already at 1 1/4" somehow. i set the level to 1 3/8" and toyed with the idle mix screws a little.

it idles high in non drive gears, but when i put it in drive or rev. it idles way down and died on me when i pulled it out of the garage. not to mention when i took it around the block, it wanted to die on me again. so should i just crank up the idle?

i had the fuel pressure at 2.5psi, so i regulated it down and it kept dying like the bowl was running dry

 

yeah, powervalves shouldn't be an issue, they're the vintage speed ones, and the br*** thing on the top is free of any obstruction. i know these damn things are easy haha, i blame it partially on my young age (20) seeing as how i've only worked on late model EFI mustangs other then this ...not to mention theres no dad or grandpa around to teach me. btw, the carbs are different, the spray bars are almost completely different.

 

On the idle...never thought of automatic, and of course EFI has ways of dealing with that. My auto trans experience is with '60's cars that all had solnoids to raise idle speed in gear, droppit in neutral. Issue of course is load...in neatral/park engine needs X throttle opening to idle at 500, in gear it is loaded immediately by transmission pump. It now needs X opening plus Y more. I've never examined what Ford did on flathead Fordos, but my immediate thought would be to look over the solenoid setup on a '60's car and adapt. Otherwise only way is to jack up idle speed and set it in drive...I used to let the car just idle against a telephone pole while I got mix right on cars that specified idle setting in gear. Do that without a solenoid, of course, and it will idle at ridiculous speed when in park.

 

hmm, well i kind of had a "DOH" moment. i noticed that i had a va***e line coming from the ****** to the back carb into a fitting. well, as i mentioned, the back carb is plugged off...i.e. no va***e. i switched it to the front operable carb and it seems to work better now. it still wants to die on me but not nearly as bad now, it just kind of lopes and idles down.

on those idle mix-screws, which way is lean and which way is rich. i've been trying to adjust them but i cant really hear any difference in idle quality, am i doing something wrong here

 

Tighten is lean. You still need to deal with extra load on engine when in gear.

 

If trans vac is plumbed to actaul port on back of carb...yankitout and tap it into a manifold port. You don't even want to hear about the peculiarities of using that carb port...at full throttle the poor trans will be reading venturi signal and wondering what the hell it is trying to modulate!

 

right on, well i'll get some fittings to plump it into the intake and see what she does