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Hot Rods Should I build a Model A Sedan!?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jasper6120, Nov 19, 2016.

  1. Jasper6120
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 502

    Jasper6120
    Member
    from Australia

    I see some of the ch***is work that people do on the hamb. There's some truly inspirational stuff, however I won't be attempting to make a ch***is as I don't have the space or facilities to do so, it's also a m***ive hurdle to get a self constructed ch***is approved in NSW. I spoke to Elvis at Rod Bods in NSW and they can build a rolling repro 32 ch***is with pinched rails, 9" diff, I beam and all the rest for $14000. Not cheap but damned tempting in regards to convenience. He mentioned that they can do a 32 ch***is that is flat along the top (still with the swoop for the rear axel) to better adapt to the Model A body. I have not seen any pictures of this. I feel I'd go with the stock, pinched 32 ch***is and make the body adapt to it with the mini channel in the cowl. One thing that I have uncertainty on is body mount, subrails and floor construction. Does anyone know any good tech articles on that?


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  2. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 3,850

    wheeldog57
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You guys down under have a lot of restrictions, that ****s. I thought M***achusetts was bad. The pros and cons to building a model a sedan
    Pros: parts are still relatively cheap, 30-31 very popular, sedans have more room than other model a's, they are cool, many guys have built one and they are willing to help, very straight forward build, versatile ch***is for various drivetrains, etc.
    Cons: aaaaaahhhhm. . . I can't think of any! Good luck
     
  3. typo41
    Joined: Jul 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,571

    typo41
    Member Emeritus

    You are in NSW, check with Chad Williams, he built a chopped Model A few years ago. I think he is in Penworth or Saint Mary's. Or Charlie Falzon
     
  4. Jasper6120
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 502

    Jasper6120
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks a lot for the info guys [emoji108][emoji817]
    I've been going over the build in my head so much this past week, trying to sort out costs and foreseeable obstacles. My brain is starting to melt!
     
  5. Just Gary
    Joined: Oct 9, 2002
    Posts: 5,821

    Just Gary
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    HAMBer OJ fabbed a beautiful pinched '32 ch***is using repro parts to fit my '28 Tudor body. I fabbed my own rear subrails and "mini-channeled" the cowl. Here's the build thread:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/introducing-my-fuel-coupe-styled-tudor.132127/
     
    Dino64 likes this.
  6. Just Gary
    Joined: Oct 9, 2002
    Posts: 5,821

    Just Gary
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Jasper,
    Another option for rear subrails is to use a kit from Steadfast. My friend, Dean (HAMBer Dino64)is taking this route. They're not cheap, but they save a lot of fabrication work and they're *really nice*. Here's a link:
    http://steadfastmfg.com/products

    Finally, here are two *excellent* build threads from which I heavily plagiarized. I think you'll really enjoy reading them:
    Rolf's Nailhead-powered '31 coupe on '32 rails:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/build-the-rolf-coupe-build.104922/
    Dave Russel's SBC-then-Hemi-powered '31 Vicky on '32 rails:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/31-model-a-victoria-build-w-pics-–-miss-vicky.277085/

    Hope this helps.
     
    Dino64 likes this.
  7. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,788

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Hmm...... my advice......

    Dreamers drive Hondas. Hot Rodders figure this **** out! So..... which are you? Hmm? Just ****in' do it and post pics when you can.
     
    Barrelnose pickup likes this.
  8. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 8,068

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Re the fuel tank location. I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference in safety whether using the stock cowl location or placing it in back ala the 32 ch***is, or behind the rear seat, or saddle tanks, etc. If a front end collision can damage a cowl tank, then a rear end collision can damage a rear mounted tank (yes one under the rear seat too) and a side collision can damage a saddle tank. All locations can be compromised in an accident, depending on the nature of the accident, and you can't choose that. How many millions of Volkswagon bugs are there out on the highways with front mounted tanks? How many Pinto's went up in a ball of flames with a rear mounted tank? Having the tank in back didn't really help them. I'm just sayin.....
     
  9. Jasper6120
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 502

    Jasper6120
    Member
    from Australia

    I got no trouble doing the work. I built my chevy without too much of an issue. The roof chop and two door conversion was work. It didn't involve any body-off or ch***is work though. I'm nervous about getting half way through a model A and running out of dough. I don't have a lot of it to spare see. I think I'll have a budget of $20K AU dollars with the sale of my Chevy.

    With the fuel tank, I have read our NSW 'Street Rod Manual' which has a very detailed criteria on just about everything https://infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/files/Street_COP_Rev2_Sec_9.pdf

    "Fuel tanks must be mounted in a position that prevents spillage of fuel or entry of fuel vapours into the p***enger compartment. Fuel tank system components must be located clear of electrical components and exhaust systems"

    That might exclude me from using a cowl tank. But the wording does seem somewhat open to interpretation.
     
  10. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 8,068

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    It really doesn't allow for placement anywhere on a model A. Maybe a saddle tank, were you going to go fenderless?
     
  11. Jasper6120
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 502

    Jasper6120
    Member
    from Australia

    Yep. Surely there's somewhere under there that works. These guidelines must open to interpretation.


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  12. Torana68
    Joined: Jan 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,445

    Torana68
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Australia

    This is where the signatory dude comes in, he will say yes or help (or should) you sort it, '32 style will work , original equipment will work as its my understanding if you modify from stock you have to follow the rules, if its as per the maker its ok (but not brakes!). Do you have a body/ch***is?
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2016
  13. Jasper6120
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 502

    Jasper6120
    Member
    from Australia

    I haven't bought anything at all yet. I just want to get my head well and truly around what I can and can't do on this build. The more you know...


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  14. Asking on here will be real helpful on how to do heaps of the work needed to build an A but advice on what you need for licensing in NSW would be best sort from a club or Transport
    as already said.
    If,as you say you can do most of the work yourself ,do the swap meets and wheel and deal as you go and 20k should get you well along the way if you can pick up a bargain body and ch***is.
    Wont be a show rod but should be a hot rod.
    Just my 2cents worth.
     
  15. wbrw32
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 7,314

    wbrw32
    Member

    Ever think of moving from a place that's all ****ed up for hotrodders????Come to USA...
     
  16. Jasper6120
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 502

    Jasper6120
    Member
    from Australia

    Haha, don't tempt me Wbrw32! I've given it serious consideration... Not easy to get a work Visa mind you.

    Barrelnose. That's the go. All the little bits add up if you're not careful. That $14k Ch***is is going to kill my budget dead. Even though its a rolling one with suspension and all. Tempting but expensive. The right ch***is/body will surely come up. I just hope its at the right time.
     

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