Just made up some body mounts today for my sedan. Pretty easy without any work so I thought I'd post.. 1st, I used some inners from my last holesaw cutting. Nice thing about them is that the hole is perfectly centered. 2nd, I used my 2.5" holesaw to cut down some hockey pucks, has I read on here they are a good type of rubber to use. With the holesaw the center pilot hole is perfectly centered too. 3rd, I cut out some right angle triangles out of some 1/4" plate 4th, I made a jig out of some angle iron laying around, bolted some 1.5" square tubing to the circle plate and jig to space the gussets right, the laid the gussets there and c-clamped them in place and welded, perfect 90 degrees. 5th, since I'm paranoid I welded the inside of the gusset too. I just used some more tubing to keep if from warping. 6th, Theres what it looks like with.. 7th, I didn't get a chance to weld them to the frame today but what I'll do is just lay a small piece of 1/4" steel on top of the frame and lay some tubing across the rails and clamp the mount to it and weld it on. Giving me a 1/4" of space for the rubber.
I have always been told not to use hockey pucks because they have a tendency to split and crack easily...but those do look nice...I'll have to remember that when it's time for me to make new body mounts for the gasser...
I've used pucks before and had no trouble, although it doesn't get super hot up here and that could have an effect in the lower States I suppose. The last vehicle I made bodymounts for I used rollers for a boat trailer. One roller becomes two bodymounts...4 pieces...a thicker donut upper cushion and a smaller lower one for two mounts. Doesn't have the "look" of a puck either, but FRY isn't gonna have that problem anyway as he holesawed those CT specials. Boat rollers are available in rubber or URETHANE if your more inclined to use that. I've seen pucks used up here for the past 25 years and never did see one crack. I'd be wary of stacking them though, as in a poorboy 4x4 bodylift. Too much movement going on then and I imagine THATS where they got the bad name. Not putting in a bodylift are ya FRY!?!? Hahaha...
yeah I heard about the bodylift pucks. Not dead set on pucks but if the general concensious is if they suck then I'll toss them, if people have been using them and liking them then I keep em. Better than baler belts which I had thought of earlier.
I like the idea of rubber or urethane boat trailer rollers, and they're pretty easy to come by up in MN...and you're right, come to think of it everytime I'd heard bad things about hockey pucks was in reference to body lifts...maybe they are good enough for body mounts, but I'd think they'd be a little stiff...then again, so would urethane...
Boat rollers really look the part once cut to size and the rubber versions are softer than a puck. The Urethane versions are WAY more expensive and I doubt they're any better. We used the rubber type on a friends project...cost him under $20.00 as opposed to the $150-160.00 for the aftermarket Urethane mounting kit he was gonna buy. That for just SIX bodymounts!(The rad mounting being a different setup that needs no rubber mounts.) If I ever come across issues with pucks or rollers I'll post it here right away to warn people but I doubt it will be a problem.
I used almost identical method, but used stall matt. It is the hard rubber matt made from recycled tires that you can get from farm stores for farm animals to stand on (most pigs in farrow crates) but also the same stuff the local walmart cashier stands on. Real cheap. Cut it in half and toss the other half you dont use on the ground at your work bench.
I said earlier in this post that if I discovered problems with pucks or Boat rollers I'd post it right away. The boat roller mounts FAILED the test. SEVERE cracking can be seen on ALL mounts! Not one...ALL. This in 6 months!!! I've read of them being used and also some fellas up this way have told me they work excellent. Todays examination shows them to be absolute JUNK and I'll never use them again. URETHANE rollers may not have this issue but I won't be trying them, so your on your own... Pucks? Still haven't seen a problem there (as a mount...NOT a body lift!) but I'll post if I do.
I've read several times here on the HAMB that some were using hockey pucks for motor mounts with success. Fwiw, I run UHMW biscuits in my 32's 48 Ford style motor mounts - which used a re-pro rubber biscuit when first built - and replaced with another rubber biscuit. Both of them squashed down after a while. The UHMW mounts are very hard, vibration free and very strong. Easy to knock out with a hole saw and drilling to 1/2" for the mounting bolt was easy. About 15,000 miles to date on the motor mounts and no problems. Subjective to say the least, but I think the UHMW runs smoother with less vibration than did the rubber mounts. The 32's a smooth running car at any speed. I made a set of these for my 31 on 32 rails roadster project and the 1 1/2" round engine mount sat on the 2" OD UHMW for seven months with full engine/trans weight and there was no depression or mark in the UHMW when the engine was lifted to install the aluminum load spreader plates. The spreader plates aren't really needed, I thought they would help and maybe they do, but right now they're strictly decorative. Along with all this, I have the 31's body on home-made mounts and UHMW biscuits are between body and mount. I expect them to work as well as the UHMW engine mounts.
I got my idea from C9. I posted the question years ago on here, and he responded. It was total steal on my part, and I love it! Thanks Jay, You rock!
Maybe . . . although I seem to hear the term, "Idjit" more often nowadays.... Your use of stall mat is interesting. Few years back I used some 3/4" neoprene to make a couple of biscuit style mounts for my 50 Plymouth coupes rear motor mounts. One of the stockers had the metal separate from the bonded rubber. I stripped the other one with a sharp knife and a few interesting words. The Plymouth's formed metal washers were put together with the new biscuits and the whole thing bolted together. Worked fine, the sheet neoprene is about the same durometer (hardness) as are/were the stock mounts whether Plymouth rear or Ford front. You can get sheet neoprene from industrial suppliers in several different thicknesses. I got mine at Industrial Rubber in Tulare, California, I think they may be a national franchise. My 32's radiator is mounted on a couple of 1/2" neoprene biscuits. Held down with 3/8" stainless bolts and nylocks. The nylocks are the important part of the equation here, you can snug up the neoprene biscuits just right without overly crushing them and the nylock doesn't allow the bolt to back out. 43,000 miles and counting on the original home-made neoprene biscuits.
I used Stall matt cause; I live in Oklahoma and there are Farm stores everywhere, the matt is cheap ($30 for 12'X6' by 1 inch thick if I remember correctly), it is made from recycled tires, it is dense yet gives cushion ( I wouldnt use it for motor mounts), and finally, it gave me a nice sheet left over to put on the floor in front of the mill and lathe. Oh yeah, and cause it is cheap and readibly accessible, and cheap.
Sounds great. Sweetie bought me a floor cushion mat for in front of the lathe a few years back. From a restaurant supply store . . . was a touch costly. Really helps. Since then I've sprung for a couple of cushion mats from Costco. They were a little expensive as well, but are working out ok. Is the stall mat full of holes? All of my mats are and they're a pain when they get loaded up with dust and the like. Gotta lift em, sweep the scuzzies out, replace em and then sweep all the scuzzies you spilled all over since the mat holes were still retaining the stuff. What probably helps the most in the lathe comfy department is the stand underneath the cabinet. Home-made from 6" channel laid on it's side. It gets the lathe up so you don't get a crick in your neck looking down and you have a place to put your foot - sorta like the footrail that runs along a bar . . . the good ones anyway.
I'm using this for a trans mount, too, and have used them for body mounts. Got mine at Tractor Supply, cuts easy with a hacksaw
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