This question pops up every six months. I made these tonight. The cones and perforated tubes are from Cone Engineering. They ship very fast and service is always good (hamb alliance too). The donuts were cut by water jet locally ($6.00 each), the front one is 3.0" od and 3.875" on the back. I plan to pick up springs like the dirt bikes use and weld some tabs onto the ends to secure the baffles. now I can run the cam in and then I can drive it around the block.
How loud are they? They don't look like they would have huge effect. I need to make some too so I'm interested to know. pete
We will find out tomorrow, I also plan to pack them. I think they will be ok at idle, but once you press on the gas it will probably blow straight thru.
wish me luck. Hopefully this is quiet enough. The insulation is FMF pipe wrap secured with safety wire.
Wow, mind if I ask what the total you have into these? I love the pipes, but have been looking to find some sort of baffle....
And when you need shreaded chesse on your salad they work great also , just kidding , they look great
the inserts from Cone eng are $15 each (before your alliance discount). I paid $50 to have the 8 donuts water jet. The pipe wrap was $20.00. Sure I could have bought glass packs or Stinger baffles, but that would not be any fun. But at the same time.... time is money, I would not cut those 8 donuts when I can have them water jet for $6.00 each including the material.
Those are bitchen. Cone makes some nice stuff. If you flip the baffels around, openings to the rear, they'll be quieter and flow more.
nice job on those. These are nice and really take the edge off the noise of open headers enough to keep the peace and still keep performance. The insert and attach with a simple weld or rivet and can be got in may configurations.These are also made locally here in Midland Ark. http://www.jegs.com/i/Car+Chemistry/176/3DI25R/10002/-1 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...&Dx=mode+matchallany&searchTerm=car+chemisrty
I made a set by cutting slices in my collector flare. The local track requires mufflers for night runnning and since I usually run test and tune I figured I would need them. The fellows who help me at the track say from 10 feet away it is actually pretty quiet. They are not unlike what a gun silencer is. Even driving the car it is not that loud. I was surprised how well it worked so yours will be way quieter than that.
I took a cherry bomb ,cut the two ends off, shoved up the pipe and used a sheet metal screw to hold it in. Works ok. These look better
I built the same exhaust for a 425 Nailhead in a 30 Coupe, some 3 years ago. I ended up welding two thick washers to the front of the cone to silence the tone a little more while increasing the back pressure to prevent the backfiring during deceleration.....
An update on these baffles. I ended up making a set of turnouts for the ends. I like the look of them without the turnout.... but on the freeway it was way too loud. I sit in the back of the car and the exhaust was basically pointed at you. I put the mount tab on the turnout and it bolts to the baffle which still slides in. I now have two sets of baffles, one for the track and one for the street. I have way too much time in these but Im happy with them.
The turnouts were made by flowmaster, I cut about 3" off the end to shorten them as much as possible then weld them to a disc I made that fits my header. Go to Summit and type "turnout" in the search field, you will see a wide variety of them.
You can make your own. I used to have a bike with the same concept except holes instead of louvers. The front of the pipe was capped, and the front disc was more like a welded wire support so the gas could pass around the tube, thru the perforated holes, and out the baffle's core. I've seen bikes the other way too, with a capped center and ring of holes around the pipe's perimiter for exit. They must be pumping into a closed-end tube, passing thru the packing, and exiting the outer edge. When the cops started hassling me, literally went into the attic and peeled a layer of insulation, wrapped the core, restrained it with a coat hanger wrap. Cut the noise in half. Blew little chunks of insulation fiber every time it was revved high and had to be repacked every couple months. Good times. I'd recommend buying proper packing like Glen.
Sorry the perforated tubes are from Cone engineering also at $15 each. take a look at their site for sizes and prices. They are an alliance vendor too no....there is a baffle inside the breather cap. That was another reason for the turnout, I couldnt locate my pan evac in the header because of the way I mounted the baffle. Thats a typical setup on a lot of rails. That FMF dirt bike packing is very thick and has not blown out at all (and its cheap).
I ordered basically the same setup from cone engineering (great guys to deal with BTW) should be arriving on Monday. Do you by any chance have a link to where you got the turnouts? Cone doesn't have 'em and I really like the look - and yes I plan on shamelessly copying your idea for using the springs to have the option of removable baffles....
Yes, that info is listed above. They are made by Flowmaster and summit sells all different sizes. Use the search function on Summits website and type in the word "Turnout"
Not an answer to all problems, but the interior volume of the muffler is very important - bigger is always quieter with no power loss. If you can't make the muffler bigger, there's another method (if you have the room, and don't want the volume to show). Use a hidden (inner and under) connector and the largest connecting T pipe you can fit to a big can between the inside of the frame rail and the driveshaft. It can be 3" or 4" exhaust tubing, 2, 3, 4 feet long with both ends capped off. That's right - closed, it has no exit. The gas expands into it, and takes a lot of the "bang" out. It doesn't get very hot since gas doesn't go through it continuously.
Has anyone ever run straight tail pipes from the headers out the back of the car and added baffles along the way? Would they effect performance less near the header or at the back?
Another thing that has been proven by a Dyno is that the "H" pipe or a "X" over will increase HP ! I have read about it and it works and also helps cut down on noise too ! The closer the cross over or conection between the 2 exhaust pipe is to the headers the better . Was proven on a Y block race engine & gained more not 1 or 2 HP , more like 7+ HP ! Hard to believe but true . Try it and you will see the difference , plus less noise & popping noise when you let off the gas pedal !
What he's described is basically an expansion chamber. The main reason an h pipe works is it smooths pulses by offering the other side's pipe volume at the peak of a pulse. The sides can't pulse in unison since plugs fire one at a time, so each cylinder is unique at any point in time. H pipes don't really flow alot of gases, more like the same gases pulsing back n forth Remove pulse from a gas, and it flows smoother. And allows the mufflers to work better. And pipe volume does effect resonance. Lot of things going on there...
It's like a water hammer arrestor, but without water. lol It's just dead space connected to, but off the beaten path (so to speak) of, the exhaust system for pressure pulses to dissipate into. The pulses ripple up into the tube and are damped out by molecular and surface friction of the gas. It's really only for sound deadening, where the H-Pipes have legitimate performance uses too.
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